Gary Lewis

It'll be a while before he's up and can answer you. So I will - Oberursel, Germany. Just NW of Frankfurt.

Ok, let's see how many really are interested. Here's what I've seen y'all say, but please reply with yes or no and what model and color you want: Gary: Yes, I'm in Rob - You are in, right? George - Are you in? John/Machspeed - You in? TheScatch - How 'bout you?

Of course those same issues also affect leaving a manual trans in gear with the engine off, or putting an auto trans in park. Another argument for lockers. Wouldn't a Trutrac cause the other wheel to spin or slide as well?

LOL! Back in my youth, or is that ute, I made my SWR meter. But it would be easy to couple one in at the SO-239 for tuning and then take it out. Assuming Midland thinks its needed.

Good to know. Thanks.

Janey said she hopes our friends see it and ask us about it so I have the oppo to tell them more. Given that, I think she understands that guy messed up.

Was just trying to figure out how to run the antenna cable for the Midland MXT115. The manual says the cable is 19.7'/6 meters long. Obviously that is a bit much to go from the pocket in the Highliner to the center of the top of the truck, even when going out the back and over the top. So a bit more looking determined that the radio has an SO-239 connector. Piece of cake! Assuming shortening the antenna's cable won't hurt the SWR, and I'll check that with Midland, I'll put a waterproof SO-239 near the bed light and run a section of the lead-in to that. Then put a new PL-239 on the antenna's lead-in and be good to go. Anyone see any problems with that?

So the arms connect to the axle at the diamond-shaped fittings? I helped WelderScott change out the bushings on his, so am somewhat familiar with them.

I wonder if there's a brass cup that could be used to seal that hole?

Well, ABC just aired a snippet of that video on World News Tonight. And they said "Telluride". Janey caught it, of course, and she asked where - Ophir Pass? Nope, Black Bear. When? A few days after we were there. How close? 4.2 miles. Are you going on Black Bear? Probably. But I took the opportunity to explain what we suspect happened, and she is ... ok.

Looks good, Shaun. Jonathan's page (Salvaging Rosewood) should help.

SMORR (the park itself) didn't have any requirement for radios. Several of the guys I met had the Bao Feng radios (that's where I heard of that particular brand). There was little to no discussion of radios while we were there. But I met them on another on-line forum which is where I heard the Bao Fengs talked about as higher powered FRS radios that you could get away using without getting a license. I didn't have any radio in my Bronco on that trip, and from what I could tell, even the people that had them weren't using them on this particular trip. We tended to just stop and pull up next to each other and talk. But also keep in mind the vintage of the vehicles I was with. I was the third newest vehicle at 1971! The other 9 originally came as 6 volt. Several of them have been converted to 12V, but not all. So it's not like overall these guys are early tech adopters! Good point! Hadn't thought about the 6 volt systems. But if some had gone to the GM powertrain they've obviously upgraded them. Anyway, I'd forgotten about BaoFeng, so looked them up. They seem to be sold via BaoFeng Tech, and they offer a wide range of radios, as show here. I'll check them out.

I don't know anything about gmrs and such but if that is the top tier unit and checks all the other boxes, what about using the external option? ------- Using an External Speaker The MXT400 provides a rear-panel jack for connection of an optional external speaker (sold separately). When selecting an external speaker, ensure the speaker has 8-ohm impedance and is rated for 4.0 watts. NOTE: When an external speaker is connected, the radio’s internal speaker is automatically disabled. ------- Scott - Don't know that I need all the boxes ticked, but was just using it as a test of fitment. But the top-firing speaker means that's not a good option as I'd prefer to use the overhead speakers as part of the stereo, although I could wire them in if I find the included speaker doesn't cut it. After all, if we are 'wheeling we probably won't be listening to music. I just did some checking on the Midland MXT115, which is still well-featured but "only" packs 15 watts instead of the 40 of the MXT400. And it appears to have a bottom-firing speaker, as shown below. And Midland says "Radio Dimensions with Bracket: 5" x 5.25" x 1" (D x W x H)". So, it should fit easily in the "tray". Plus, these instructions show how it can be mounted to the Highliner & roof. So I think I'm sold, although I'll probably go with the "bundle" that includes two handhelds. And with the inverter behind the seat, as well as a behind-the-seat storage unit, I can charge the handhelds while driving.

That's a good read, Dane. I have been all over the Midland website, but had missed that explanation. Thanks! As for a shift, Jeep Jamboree has already said that while CB was fine this year, next year they'll require FRS/GMRS. I'm sure there will be others to follow their lead. But I'm also sure that there will be those who resist. However, I'll bet that most private places will accommodate both for a while. But let's ask Bob - what did SMORR require? And was there any discussion amoung your new friends of radios? Last, I made some progress on the cooling system today. Got the majority of the coolant captured w/o a major mess and the old radiator out. And, I got the radiator hoses off. The pic below is of the old bottom hose, on the bottom of course, and the new one above it. Both are Dayco 71215's, but notice the difference in the sleeve that protects the hose from the steering box, which the hose has a habit of resting on. With a little bit of effort the new one now has both the rubber sleeve as well as the expanded one. Also, notice the "scratch" on the lower/old one. That's the reason I'm replacing the hose. I didn't notice it when I installed it, but when the system is up to pressure it is very obvious and I can get my thumbnail down in it a ways. So, what better time than now to replace it. The new hose is now on and I'm expecting delivery of the new radiator and cap in the next couple of days. Then it'll be easy to put the radiator in place, bolt it in, hook up the hoses, and fill it up.

Good to know about the carb. I'll keep the EFI bit until last, and if all else is done and there's gobs of time I'll think about it. But, I'll take a strip kit for the Eddy with me. I have the AFR meter on it, so tuning should be easy. Might even be able to do it with the metering needles, meaning the top of the carb wouldn't have to come off. On the rear axle, I'd bet the shoes are in correctly 'cause now that the load proportioning valve is out the rear brakes work well. On our 360 mile jaunt I told Janey to "hold on" and set it down QUICKLY. No squalls and it stopped NOW! And I'm pretty sure it is the Sterling. It even has the long-pinion upgrade on it.

My understanding is that where vehicle inspections are required they are looking for an emergency brake that can be used to stop the vehicle if the regular service brakes fail. A line lock uses the regular service brakes and won't help you at all if the service brakes fail, so it's useless as an emergency brake. But that doesn't mean it's not a good parking brake. Gary, I'm glad Big Blue's emergency brake works well, but the one in my '97 F-250 is TERRIBLE. I've driven a few hundred feet with it engaged a few times. It works well enough that I can tell something's wrong and I eventually figure out what it is. But I'd never count on it for anything. For what it's worth, it's so bad that a couple weeks ago I broke the cable trying to get it to hold just a little. I haven't got around to replacing the cable yet, but I'm hoping that I can go through the whole linkage and get it working acceptably. But at least as I got the truck it was pretty useless. edit to add 2 Feb 2023: Going through this thread a few years later I saw this and didn't see that I responded to it. If I did and I'm repeating myself here, sorry. And if I didn't respond until now, then I'm sorry about that! In lower gears the engine has an easier time turning the wheels. Otherwise you could start in high gear. But with low gearing the engine has more "leverage" on the tires, so it can turn them easier. But when you go the other way through the drivetrain it's just the opposite effect. For instance, if your manual trans has a 4:1 first gear, that means the engine turns 4 times for each time the driveshaft turns once. But going through it the other way, the driveshaft sees it as a 0.25:1 overdrive. Think of how much trouble your engine would have starting out in a 75% overdrive instead of 1st gear. So that's what your wheels see when they try to spin an engine that's shut off. The lower the gearing the harder it is for the tires to turn the engine, so the better the engine works as a parking brake. What axle is in your '97? I've not looked at BB's rear brakes so don't really know what I have. In fact, the whole rear axle is pretty much as it was when I got the truck. All else I've had apart, but the axle and brakes seem to be working, so....

"They say" (but who are they and what do they know?) that a torque converter gives about another 2:1 advantage in crawl ratio, so the 2.46 of a C6 is effectively a 4.92, which isn't much worse than a ZF5. But that said, I really prefer low manual gears over the supposed advantage of an auto letting you ease into things. Think of putting a front tire against a ROCK (not a grapefruit ). With an auto you ease into the throttle and the engine makes more noise but nothing happens. So you ease in a bit more. Still just more noise. So a bit more. Now the tire climbs the rock and suddenly there's no ROCK slowing you down but you're still deep into the throttle and the engine is still turning 3000 rpm. So you lift off the throttle, stab the brake, and maybe stop before you slam into something else. On the other hand, with a manual trans you ease up to the ROCK and the engine stalls. Bummer, but you haven't hurt anything. So you do it again with a little more throttle. OK, sure you might stall the engine one or two times, but eventually the tire climbs. When that happens, like with the auto the ROCK is gone and you're still deep in the throttle. But unlike the auto, now the engine is only at 600 rpm, so it's easy to lift your foot (or better yet, release the hand throttle) before the engine accelerates. So you just smoothly go over the top of the rock. Or with old-school trucks it's better yet. When the engine stalls the first time you just restart it without pushing in the clutch. In low gear low range the truck climbs the rock on the starter (and with the help of the engine at idle as soon as it fires up). As it starts you let off the starter and you are idling over the top of the rock. I know that hard core competition rock crawlers all use autos, so they have to be better. But that doesn't mean they are necessarily easier. And I really like rock crawling with a stick. True, I'd forgotten about the torque converter. But I'm with you, I think I like the manual. However, I've not had the chance to try Big Blue yet, so how well he works remains to be determined. By the way, Bob, your Bronco is carb'd. Right? Any issues in the San Juans? Just wondering how important it is to get the EFI on BB.

Rob - Thanks! Yes, I've probably moved on from a CB. But I'm kinda thinking I'd put the GMRS radio up there. The big daddy of Midland GMRS radios, the MXT400, is only 1.6" x 5.5" x 7.3", so it looks like it would fit. However, it has a top-firing speaker so that doesn't really work very well. What I'd like to find is a radio with a bottom-firing speaker. Then I'd attach it to the roof of the truck through the Highliner and drill the tray to allow the sound to come through.

But before BB goes to CO there are a BUNCH of things to do, inc replacing the radiator. So I started draining the old radiator. BOY DO I HATE THAT DRAIN PLUG! It has no "spout" and it appears to just have a tiny hole in it. So once the gasket clears the body of the radiator you get a very weak stream that goes wherever the hole is pointed. I'd tied a funnel under there to capture the coolant as I want to reuse it since it only has ~500 miles on it. But at first the stream was going off towards the driver's front wheel. I rotated the plug and it is now SLOWLY going into the funnel. But this is going to take a LONG time to drain. Sure am looking forward to getting the new radiator. Look at the lower right of this pic. I suggest that if you are installing a new radiator that you get a proper petcock before you fill it. That will make draining it much easier/cleaner.

Yes, the Park pawl is an advantage for an auto. As is the fact that you can ease into things and add just a bit more throttle to get over them. But the 5.76:1 first in a wide ratio ZF5 is a bit better than the 2.46:1 of a C6. Coupled to the t-case low and 3.55 gearing that gives 55.64 vs 23.93.

From what you've posted since this I think you've seen as much, if not more, than I have. So go with whatever you think based on the info you are gathering. I just wanted to make sure you looked into the question a bit. And I'm not saying a CB and another wouldn't be an option either, especially if you do have a group that uses CB. Bob - I'm glad you said something as I'd really not considered GMRS/FRS. But just talked to my brother and he's in agreement - that's probably the way to go. And he wants to put one on/in his FJ before our trip. And yes, he's "in". He and his wife would like to meet Janey and I in Ouray next summer and we'll do some of the easy trails. And then we'll probably do the Lake City loop. After that, if the gals aren't ready for the next level we'll go by ourselves. Now if I can arrange to get our son out there......

Yep, starting in 1st on Big Blue is only for when you are stopped on a serious angle and want to make sure you don't kill it. But you'll have to shift into 2nd in the middle of the intersection. Try it in low range on the t-case! My favorite story is when we were pulling the old sign down at the church building. It put it in low/low, came out on the clutch and walked back asking the guys if they needed help. They stood there with their mouths open as BB just idled and pulled the sign down - w/o a driver.

I had seen that footage as well. Still very scary. But what do you mean about the Sterling's park brake being marginal? The one on Big Blue is binary - it is either on or off, and you are NOT going to rotate the tires when it is on. I know that because of my first test with the new winch a couple of years ago. The instructions on the synthetic line said to install it the first time with 2000 lbs of force. So I put Blue at the end of the driveway with its park brake on and in Park and put the park brake on Big Blue on with a few clicks - and the winch drug Blue w/o BB moving. So I played with it and it is either on or off, there is no in between. As for what gear, I can see what you are saying. But I think it is the fact that in the lowest of gears it would have to spin the engine at high RPM to move the truck at much speed. Think of it this way - what gear do you go into for compression braking going down a hill? Low. And Blue's auto tranny does the same thing in Tow/Haul mode - a tap on the brakes and it downshifts. Hit them again and it shifts down again.

My experience with radiators has been that they are hard to clean if they are very badly plugged. There are cleaners on the market that say they will do it, but you'll then need to run a few batches of plain water through the system to get all of the cleaner out. What problems are you having?

Glad you are happy!