Gary Lewis

Sure sorry to see that you have cancer. That's awful! Sure hope the treatments and the surgery solve the problem. As for the brakes, I'll second the hydroboost suggestion. Big Blue has never stopped this well. You don't push on the brake pedal unless you want action NOW!

Isn't that the truth! Even with a ratcheting wrench it's a pain. Yep. There’s no way to get on the top two screws with a ratchet and socket due to the e-brake handle. So a ratcheting wrench is the only way. But I then had to get a finger onto the ratchet as the screw didn’t offer enough resistance to make the wrench ratchet. 😳 The lack of black tape is just too bad.

I can send pictures of this if Gary needs it. Both of mine are blue and Non-AC. David - I see what you mean. While I only got a quick view of the vents it looked black behind the slider’s slot. Is that what you mean? I got both vents on yesterday, but forgot to put the black tape on the driver’s side. 😩 It is so hard to get to the upper screws due to the e-brake pedal I think I’m going to play like there’s no problem. The e-brake pedal somewhat obscures the view, so I think it’ll be fine. Cory - Thanks, but I don’t think I need the pics.

I think the Bronco values are headed north rapidly, partially due to the new Bronco coming out. And I believe that's going to take the value of all Bullnose trucks north as well. Not at the same rate by any means, but it is going to "help". I put "help" in quotes as I'm not sure I want the prices to go up. On the one hand that means our trucks are more popular, and that is good for a number of reasons including that parts may become more available. Like the trim pieces that are so hard to find - if the trucks are popular the manufacturers will see a market and make them. On the other hand, that means that buying these trucks is going to get more expensive. And we'll be asking ourselves if we should modify them as that might decrease the value.

Good luck! Thanks for being the pioneer on this.

If so, the feeling is mutual. They didn't respond to email for over a week after saying we can have a discount, and when I call they say "Will talk to the boss today & get you a code." Two days later and nothing, so I email again, showing frustration ON PURPOSE. They email back with a code and their website is up the spout. Honestly guys, I've about had it with them. I'm not sure I want one of their consoles at any price. It just is not worth the hassle of dealing with them. And, I set up a vendor review: http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/Classic-Consoles-td79034.html#a79035. So hopefully they'll read this thread tomorrow and check out the review. That review is not only available to all ~1000 members of this forum, it is visible to everyone in the world - for all time.

Whomever set this up did a poor job as I'd like to give Classic Consoles a ZERO. They appear to have a nice product, but communicating with them has been abysmal! I asked about a group discount and it took forever to get a response. When they responded that they would give us a 10% discount I had a question about how to manage that so responded via email. Days later I finally called them and was told they'd get an answer that day. Two days later I emailed again and finally got a code. Then when I tried to order the console their whole website was seemingly down, and not only for me for others on the forum. At this point I don't think the console is worth the hassle of getting it. And if you ever had a problem there's no way you'd get service.

Classic Consoles makes a number of things, one of which is an arm rest/console that sits on a bench seat and provides drink holders and a place to store things.

USB DVD drives are cheap. And the pump should run if you give it power. You can check its resistance, but I don't know what it should be. Just that it should run. Last, you are on the map!

Thanks, Bruce. The covers come with a tube of clear RTV, so I have the one that come with the broken one and supposedly will get one with the new one, so would assume that will be enough? But I want it on really well so will probably get some of the Permatex as well.

I tried two different browsers. And chose a 1979 truck as they don't have 1985. Still the same. Sent Randy a link to here and told him I am FRUSTRATED! Was ready to buy but I'm not sure now.

Right you are.

So have at it! And let us know how it goes for you, please. Well, I thought I'd go ahead and order mine. But when I go to their site and then go to the BC Cruiser Bench Seat Console page it asks me to "Choose an option". And when I do, regardless of which option I choose, it puts an X through everything and doesn't fill in the option I chose. I'll call them tomorrow to see what is going on, but this company is FRUSTRATING!

Very nice truck! Needs an aux battery, but it is ready for it.

Since nabble does some interesting url handling, this is the what I've had to do also for "future reference" links. Note that in Chrome at least you can click on the More... button when adding a bookmark via the Star icon and paste in the permalink: Scott - I did NOT know that. Cool! Thanks!

Well folks, I got this email today: So have at it! And let us know how it goes for you, please.

You guys sure are having fun. I like those lights, but not that much.

Yes!!!!

Yup, MOAR POWUR!!!! And why not have it on the handhelds? It looks like my brother is going to use one of mine instead of buying a mobile radio, so we may want to run that one in high power mode as he might be farther away than just spotting. As for the temp problem, that is good to know. I'm not sure we'll be wanting to use them in the cold, but we'll have alkaline AA's available as a backup. As for what I did to Big Blue today, a lot of little things but nothing really to show - yet. I got both kick panel vents in and the passenger's side kick panel in as well. But I'm going to hold off installing the driver's side kick panel as I need to run wires up topside for the GMRS radio and the speakers that will be in the Highliner and they'll probably be routed that way. And I also got the passenger's side A & B-pillar trim on. Then I turned to the passenger's door panel. First, I re-installed the speaker using rope caulk as bedding compound. Then I used carpet cleaner to clean the carpet on the map pockets, and they turned out nice so I installed the one on the passenger's door. Next I strung rope caulk all over that door and cut a heavy trash bag up for the vapor barrier. Man, is that tedious work, especially cutting it out around the speaker! Then I hot-melt glued the speaker cloth that I took off of the back of the fancy velour insert for the original door panels on to the new door panel. Last, I glued the felt sound/thermal insulation to the back of the door. Still need to install the glass "scraper" to the door panel and then I can install the panel. But that'll have to wait until Wednesday as we are running errands tomorrow. Maybe I can get both door panels and the driver's side B-pillar trim on and play with the Highliner, which is due in tomorrow.

Congrat's!!!!! Glad it passed. On the fuel gauge, it is probably the sending unit in the tank. They do that. And on the temp gauge, the problem isn't the Instrument Cluster Voltage Regulator since the fuel gauge works and the ICVR powers those two awa the oil pressure gauge. Pull the wire off the temp gauge sender and ground it to the block or some other ground. With the key on the temp gauge should go to full scale in a few seconds. If so the gauge and wiring are good and the sending unit is bad.

Yep, aux battery and EFI with its fender-mounted filter pretty well uses up the space.

Yes, you are right. The "battery" is made up of four AAA cells, and it has a rating of 750 mAh. So why not put four AA cells with 2300 mAh capacity each in there?

It is nice, but it looks like the lid's latch is broken off - like most are. Or am I missing something?

The Midland NiMH pack that fits in the battery holder is made up of four AAA batteries in a plastic package. But the battery holder takes four AA batteries. So why not put four 2300 mAh NiMH AA batteries in there?

Bill - Some audiophiles do. But tubes in an offroad vehicle doesn't sound (get it?) very good. Jim - Turns out that the Midland NiMH pack is made up of AAA batteries and is only packing 750 mAh. But there are plenty of sources for much stronger NiMH batteries, such as these Energizer NH15BP-8's which are rated at 2300 mAh. IOW, 3x the capacity of the Midland pack. And they are said to "Retain their charge in storage for up to 12 months so reliable, rechargeable power is always on hand". That then calls into question how to charge them. The desktop stand is fed by a 9v wall wart, so there is either regulation in the charger or the radio. And while the kit came with a cigarette lighter cord to go into the desktop charger, that seems a poor way to do it in a truck. But, the owner's manual for the radio says that you can charge the battery via the speaker/charge port, so that implies the regulation is in the radio. And Amazon sells this cable that plugs into that port and supplies 9v. So that would seem like a good way to charge the handhelds in the truck. But, I need to make sure that in addition to the inverter I have 12v ports behind the seat.