Gary Lewis

Jacob - I think an exterior paint will stand up to the UV far better than clear coating. So if it going to sit out you may want to use a paint intended for exterior use. And thanks for the explanation on the lift. Makes sense.

Yes, but.... If you look at the first layer of the menu there are two categories: Bullnose Forum is on Nabble, and all else is on the Weebly website. For instance, when I searched for Dad's Truck using the upper right search function it found pages in Documentation, Truck Shows, About, etc. Just not the thousands of times those words are used in the forum. So the search tips need to explain that. Right?

Ok, I created the new thread inc a poll: http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/Search-Tools-td79389.html But the magnifying glass in the upper right searches the website, and not the forum. I know that's confusing, but the forum is on Nabble and that one doesn't search it. Only the website. And the Nabble search function only searches the forum, and not the website.

Folks, we have multiple search tools on the site, and they are confusing as well as take up real estate on the page. So I'd like to know which ones you use, and towards that end I've created a poll. You can vote for up to three, so if you use all three vote for all of them. But, if you have a preference tell me that in a post. Or suggestions. Or questions. And here are the three different ones:

Scott - I don't use the Freefind search either. But before we remove it let me ask the question "in the open". But which "magnifying glass" are you talking about? There's one at the very top right, and there's the one below the words "Search Forum". I use the latter frequently and it works well.

Good point, Jim. If the choke is dragging then it won't close.

Congrat's! Glad Rusty did well, and glad the hunting trip was a success as well.

Repeat after me: Two steps forward and one back is still progress. Two steps forward and one back is still progress. Two steps forward and one back is still progress. Two steps forward and one back is still progress. When I put the passenger's door panel on there was one "christmas tree" that didn't seem to go in correctly. But I didn't worry about it too much. However, today I put the driver's door panel and it, too, wouldn't go on correctly. In fact, I broke two christmas trees trying to install it. So, tomorrow I have to pull the panel and see what is going on. But, on the positive side, I did get a few smaller things done, which I'm going to document her 'cause I frequently get questions about these things on Facebook. I got the speaker on using rope caulk as bedding compound: And the rope caulk on the door itself: And then the heavy duty trash bag on the door as the vapor barrier: And I got the glass scraper and the insulating felt on the door panel: On that topic of the glass scraper, you can see above that I used pop rivets. But more specifically I used 1/8" rivets with a 1/4" reach. And, I used #6 washers behind the plastic to spread the load. In this pic I show the rivets that came with the scrapers on the top and then rivets I used on the bottom. The top ones are too short to allow getting the washer on. Don't know how long it is, but it is too short.

Yippee! Another layer down on the onion.

LOL! I'll need the patience, for sure. But I've already reached through the hole in the Highliner for wires coming into the radio pocket and marked the inner panel of the roof. And there's ~1" of space between the Highliner and the inner panel at that point, so if I put a hole in the inner panel there it'll be easy to drop the radio power and ground wires into the pocket but run the speaker wires on back to the speakers. And, I got the weatherproof BNC connectors in today so need to figure out where the cab-mounted one will go and then cut through the inner panel there and drill the outer panel to take the connector. And, put grommets on all of those openings. As for fishing the wires, I'll take your lead on how to do that, although I don't have one of those fish tapes. But I'll bet I can get there as I've done this kind of thing a few times. Hmmm, if I go this way, meaning up the A-pillar, then I can put the kick panel and B-pillar trim on. Just not the A-pillar trim.

Duh! I put it up on a new tab on Documentation/Fuel Systems/460 Fuel Systems. But that page needs some organizational help as it is just getting things clagged on. Any volunteers?

Ok, I think I'm following. I found a gap in the header I wasn't aware of 'cause it isn't easily seen from the driver's seat. But it shows in this pic using a mirror. That's where I run the wires after they come up the A-pillar? And then you are saying I'd cut into the header in the middle to let me get the wires up above the Highliner. Right?

The year menu should pop our to the right, as shown below:

And now you are, literally, on the map!

Posting pics is always an issue. But go to Bullnose Forum/Forum FAQ's for help on that. Also, you are posting by replying via email. That works, but it is messy as it copies in a lot of the post to which you are replying. It is better to click on the link in the email right below the "If you reply to this email, your message will be added to the discussion below" text. That logs you into the forum and you can post from there. However if you really want to post via email you might consider cutting out the extraneous info. In Gmail there are three dots at the bottom of the response page and if you click them you can see the extra stuff and can delete it.

Oh yes, about your question. Typically we introduce in this New Members Start Here folder and troubleshoot in the main section. The reason for that is that you'll get more attention there than here. But, got to Documentation/Electrical/EVTM/1981 EVTM in the menu. Then pick the Charge & Power Distribution section. That'll give you the schematics.

Patrick - Welcome! Glad you joined. But, would it be ok if I moved your post, and the follow-up comments, like this one, to a new thread? Usually new member start their own introduction thread, so I can do that for you if you'd like. And, where's home? I ask 'cause we have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and we could put you on there with a zip or city/state. Last, where are the pics of your truck????

Yes, the A-pillar would keep the wires shorter. Just thinking about how best to do it. You ran down the threshold with the other wires, then up back w/the dome light wires?

It isn't illegal to link to something that's on the internet. So your link was fine, but what you did is even better. However, for me to post the All Data page isn't kosher. They could demand that it be taken down. So it is safer for us to put copies of the stuff we own out there. Then the only people that could possibly complain is Ford, and they aren't going to do that.

Ok guys, so it is possible to come up the A-pillar and across the header? Jim - Tell me more about where you drilled the holes? Did you just drill several across the header? I don't have a unibit, but this may be the time as I also have to drill through the inner roof panel in the rear to get access to the outer panel so I can mount the weatherproof BNC connector, which came in today.

I try not to put things like that from All Data on here since it isn’t legal as you are supposed to pay a fee to get to it. And since I have all the TSB’s why not? Now I need to go add it to the TSB’s set of pages so, eventually when Google indexes it, people can search and find it here. And I put in key words, like the part numbers, to make it easier to find.

Why not use our own? I have all of the TSB's, just don't have them scanned in. So I scanned this one in and put it on the Hot Fuel Handling tab at Documentation/Fuel Systems/460 Fuel Systems.

Jacob - Does your truck set out so the wheels are exposed to UV light? If so I'm not sure what to tell you because the clear coatings that I'm familiar with are broken down by UV. For instance, the clear on my powder coated aluminum wheels are showing signs of breaking down from the time they've set out. And I would have thought that the clear powder would be better than clear paint. But, I like your plans. It is just that I'm not sure how long the clear will last. As for the front end, it is good to know it can be done. Can you tell us more about what lift you used and what else you did to align it?

I like it! And for $12K it is a reasonable buy. EFI'd 351W and an E4OD should make it reasonably economical to drive, and it'll have plenty of power.

You are right, I've not "twigged", as the Brit's say, to how the throttle bracket works, but I'll wait on the later pics. You keep on keeping on and soon you'll be truckin'!