Gary Lewis

I can only imagine how much work that was. Wow! Sorry about getting the intake wrong. But you are on top of it, so I'm sure you'll find the issue. And I think you are right to wait to make a big change before a long trip. When do you go?

I know that Jim recommends pulling them off. I looked at doing that on Big Blue but it was going to take more work than I thought it was worth since I have the pin-cushion cowl and there shouldn't be any more "stuff" coming into that area.

Good luck! And, by the way, I like your nice, clean post.

Thanks, I found them here. But those don't look to be any longer than the ones I have. Am I missing something?

So you are running w/o a filter? And the filter that was plugged was new? Did it get splashed with water? That will plug some filters.

Rob! That looks GREAT! WOW! On the plugs, you might have a leak at #6, so check it out. But remember that the end cylinders have a hard time getting the same amount of fuel as the others. Even with your Clifford intake that's a long way to pull fuel. But I would have expected #1 to be similar to #6, so maybe you do have a leak.

Oh, my bad...I just watched the video...If it's actually coming out of the vents then yes that duck bill is blocked, and the whole cavity must be full in there. I just cleaned this area out on my 1980 today and there was a big pile of leaves in there.I cleaned that area on Big Blue last week some time and was surprised how much stuff was in there. Don't know how long the pin cushion cowl has been on, but the leaves and other stuff had to have gotten in before it was put on, so they've been there quite some time.

Scott - I appreciate the suggestion! I banged my head against various things yesterday and again today and couldn't figure out what the problem is. So I'll get some of those and give it a try! But, you don't happen to have the package do you? I just looked and there are 2512 results for interior trim panel retainer on the O'Reilly's site. Was it a Dorman assortment? Have a pic? Rob - That insulation made a difference in the sound the door makes when it shuts. It really made it more of a quiet "thunk" than before. But I haven't driven the truck so don't know if it made a real difference in the sound.

Do you need another carb? If the carb that is on is working well I might put the other one on the shelf and rebuild it if you need it.

Yippee! Progress! You are peeling off the layers of this onion very nicely and soon you'll have a mess of onion rings.

And, by the way, you are replying via email. That's not the recommended way of replying as it copies in a whole bunch of the preceding message unless you specifically delete it. The best way of replying is to click the link right below "If you reply to this email, your message will be added to the discussion below:" That will take you into the forum and you'll see the other person's post and you can reply.And, you can also see all of the junk that gets copied in when you reply via email. But, this is your thread so you get to chose how to respond. Just bear in mind that some may not want to read the thread with the extraneous stuff in it, so that might limit the help you get.

You can't easily post a .mov on here. The way I do it is to put the video on Youtube and then get the "embed" code and put it here. BUT, you have to tick the box above/left that says "Message is in HTML Format" to make that work. Here's your video: So, you have vents in the kick panels. But you shouldn't have water coming in there. My guess is that the "duck bill" is plugged. That is a screwed to the outside of the cab and is between the back of the fender and the cab. Here's the one on Dad's truck, but getting yours off will require pulling the rear of the fender liner away and reaching up between the cab and fender. However, if you pull that kick panel vent you will probably be able to vacuum out a whole bunch of crud that is blocking that vent.

Got the driver's door panel on today, but one of the bottom christmas trees refuses to hold, just like the same position does on the passenger's side. They'll just have to be loose. I turned to the dash pad, ensuring that it was smooth enough with no sharp edges sticking up. Then I pulled the new Coverlay cover out and found that they've changed their adhesive to the same stuff that Bruce recommended: A trial fit showed that this one fits better than the broken one. It goes farther down into the defroster vents and the other areas. In fact, I'm almost tempted to leave it black, but there are a few places where a bit of the old dash pad shows through. And then I cleaned the dash pad and cover thoroughly and applied half of a tube of that adhesive and tied it all together with bungee cords. Tomorrow I can clean it and paint it. Or, maybe Monday as tomorrow is Janey's birthday.

Bobby - Nice looking truck, so why not include it in the thread? As for the water coming in, do you have a block-off plate like this screwed to the cab? Or is it open like this? Or, do you have the slide vents like this?

Bobby - Welcome! Glad you joined. Would you like to be put on our map, which is at Bullnose Forum/Member's Map? You should put the info about your truck in a signature, and how to do that is explained in Bullnose Forum/Forum FAQ's. That way when you ask a question we'll know the details about your truck and won't have to guess.

Congrat's! Glad you found it. But it may be that the choke came off too early. After it cools and the choke comes back on it might start easily - and then die again. If so then pump the throttle a couple of times and see if that causes it to start briefly.

Glad the website helps. And what came to my mind was James 1:2-4. Very much a parallel.

Did you replace the fuel hoses? On two of my trucks the original hoses were toast. On one the hose was porous enough that it would let enough air in to kill the vacuum the fuel pump creates to move gas, and the truck would die. So any loose clamp or bad hose can give you fits.

Get a BIG cup of coffee and set aside hours before you start reading BB's transformation thread. We wander badly and I'm verbose. But, the mention of a battery tender reminded me of a quirk of the CH smart isolator. When the battery tender has gotten the voltage of one of the batteries to 13.2 volts for two minutes the isolator will close. So now you are charging both batteries, which slows the charging down. But, the coil of the isolator has a significant current draw, and it may overpower a small tender. So now the voltage on the batteries goes down to 12.7v and the whole process starts all over. On our boat, which I keep on battery tenders, plural, I only ground the black wire of the isolator when the key is on. So during the winter the isolator doesn't come in. But on Big Blue I haven't bothered as I don't anticipate keeping him on a battery tender.

Yikes! That thing is big! My recent experience with shutoff valves on the heater hose is you need heat in the morning but not in the afternoon. So we stopped two weeks ago today and I popped the hood to close the valve, and some nice guys stopped to see if we needed help. I'd prefer a valve that I can control from inside the cab. But I've not decided how I want to do that.

I knew what you were thinking, but it might be confusing to others. Jamie - There are at least two styles of battery isolators: relay & diode. All diodes have a voltage drop across them, and some of them have up to a .7v drop. And what that means is that your battery never gets to the full voltage of the regulator. Given that I much prefer the relay style as there is essentially no voltage drop across them. But some of the relay-style isolators come in when the key is turned to On. The original ones used on the Bullnose trucks with auxiliary batteries do that. If your aux battery is dead it gets paralleled with the main battery as soon as you start the engine, causing a big drain on the main battery, which may have itself been discharged quite a bit while starting. But the CH smart isolator waits until the battery is up to at least 13.7 volts for two minutes before connecting them, so you know your main battery has gotten some charge.

On most caps the coil could be removed and re-installed backwards. And, if so then it'll go the wrong way when it heats up. I think that is what Jim is suggesting. So I'd pull the cap and see which way that coil is trying to push the linkage. If it is pushing it closed then all is good. But if it is pushing it open then we have a problem.

I think you meant "close" only while the alternator is charging. But yes, the isolator does a good job of keeping both batteries fully charged.

Jamie - The alternator table works for me, although it doesn't come up at the top left of the spreadsheet. But you can scroll to it. On the CB vs GMRS, one of the attractive features to me is the size of the antennas. The one that comes with the package I bought is ~6" tall. Yes, 6 inches! And that includes the magnetic base. Compare that to any CB antenna. So you can slap it on the roof of the truck and not worry about knocking it off in most cases. And that translates into small but very powerful handhelds. The antennas on them are maybe 5" long and they are said to have a normal range back to the mobile unit of 10 - 15 miles, and in worst-case conditions of 5 - 10 miles. As Jim said, I have a LOT of amp-hours under the hood of Big Blue. And a 130A 3G alternator with a 2.5 second LRC regulator in it. And I have a factory auxiliary battery tray plus a Cole Hersee 48530 Smart Battery Isolator w/a 200A rating connecting the two. The isolator doesn't connect the two batteries until one of them is up to 13.2V, and will disconnect them if one gets down to 12.7V.

The Highliner uses a #912 incandescent bulb for the dome light. It goes right up against an aluminized piece of insulation, but I don't like that idea due to the heat. So after a bit of searching I bought a set of 10 of these LED bulbs from Amazon. I'll have to put a piece of tape on the back side to ensure there isn't any shorting to the aluminized insulation. A #912 is supposed to put out 144 lumens. These LED's are rated at 600 lumens, meaning four times the light, but with a lot less heat. And, all of the light is directed down. (That emoticon is named "beam". Get it. )