Gary Lewis

I used to have one, back when I rode bikes. But it got lost in our many moves. In my reading the majority of people said to use graphite to lube speedo cables. But the next group of people said they use lithium-based grease. However, the counter from the graphite people was that grease will get old and hard where graphite won't. And, it can make a speedo cable stiff in cold weather. Dad always used graphite, cautioning me that if I used grease to only grease the bottom half of the inner cable since too much grease can get into the speedo and ruin it. Apparently that was a problem in the early days, but our speedos have a pretty serious input bearing that doesn't allow anything through. So I don't think ours would be ruined with too much grease. But, as Jim said, I don't want a puddle of grease. So I chose to go with graphite, fortified with Teflon. Both are dry lubes so shouldn't cause a mess nor get old or stiff. We shall see.

Dane - I've driven Blue several times in the last few days and find that Ford's speed control systems have come a long, long way since the Bullnose era. The ability to push a button once and get a speed up/down of 1 MPH, and gently I should add, is wonderful. And hitting resume when you are several MPH below doesn't get you WOT, or as close as it can, which my Bullnose units have done. Plus, as you crest a hill it doesn't over react and cut the throttle too much and then come back in with more throttle than needed. I can see how the PID routine can make it so much better. Here's a slightly modified version of what Wikipedia says about the P, I, and D portions of the controller: Term P is proportional to the current value of the Set Point − Current Speed error. For example, if the error is large and positive, the control output will be proportionately large and positive, taking into account the gain factor "K". Using proportional control alone will result in an error between the setpoint and the actual speed because it requires an error to generate the proportional response. If there is no error, there is no corrective response. I accounts for past values of the Set Point − Current Speed error and integrates them over time to produce the I term. For example, if there is a residual SP − CS error after the application of proportional control, the integral term seeks to eliminate the residual error by adding a control effect due to the historic cumulative value of the error. When the error is eliminated, the integral term will cease to grow. This will result in the proportional effect diminishing as the error decreases, but this is compensated for by the growing integral effect. D is a best estimate of the future trend of the Set Point − Current Speed error, based on its current rate of change. It is sometimes called "anticipatory control", as it is effectively seeking to reduce the effect of the SP − CS error by exerting a control influence generated by the rate of error change. The more rapid the change, the greater the controlling or damping effect. In the setup of the controller you specify values for three parameters: Kp for the proportional calc's; Ki for the integral; and Kd for the derivative. But these parameters can be adjusted on the fly - in the case of an Arduino that can be done via a USB or Bluetooth connection from a computer or phone. To put it another way, Kp determines its initial reaction to hitting Resume when you are 20 MPH below the set point. Ki determines what happens during the run-up to the set point - does it continue to add more throttle because you are still below the set point? And Kd says "wait a minute, we are approaching the set point so let's back off just a bit so we don't overshoot." But while this would be a really fun project, I do have a few other things I want to do, so I'd be thrilled if I found that the latest changes to Big Blue make his speed control work acceptably. Or if Bill's red module does. So I'm not running off to buy the Arduino. But, I am thinking through how to do it. And a couple of those thoughts are: Connections: How to cleanly connect to the existing harness is a concern as I don't want to chop the connectors off and solder in. One thought is to use a speed control module's board but strip off the components and solder to the traces. Another is to use a purpose-made cable, like those from the speed control testers. Placement: It would be ideal if the Arduino could go where the current speed control module goes, but I think it'll be too big for that. So I'm thinking that placing it where the center speaker would go, under the dash pad, would work and run a USB cable down to the ash tray area for connecting to it.

Bradenton isn't in the middle of nowhere. Even I've been there. My son's in-laws used to live there, although they now live around the corner from you. So, what's the problem? Seriously though, I understand. No problemo.

I'll do that, Bill. In fact, as I walked by it this afternoon I thought "That thing is red - is it really that different?" So, I do plan to try it. Perhaps it has some better logic in it? On the one hand, I'd love to do an Arduino to create a speed control that beats what the Bullnose speed controls do, hands down. But, I would be thrilled if the changes I've made suddenly "click" and things start working nicely. I have plenty of other things to do. Having said that, a PID controller wouldn't be all that hard to do.....

They've changed names, moved to a new location down the street, and also changed numbers in that time. Unfortunately they don't list the sales people on their website like some dealers so, so no luck on that route. Bummer! Oh well. Walk in and talk to them?

I voted. Go look at the vote. Even I can figure this one out.

John - Thanks for that. So you could lube the cable from the bottom. Right? And how has it worked?

That's cool, Shaun! I'd call and see if the salesman is still there.

Thanks, Shaun.

Did some more speedometer testing today. Surprising how many of these speedos are off, and how far. But, it looks like #2 is a winner, and it has a trip odometer, which I hadn't realized. I think I'll go with it but put Big Blue's odometers on as the #'s on that one are in pretty bad shape. I've colored the rows to indicate my thoughts about how close they are overall. Notice that #2 is closer than the NOS one, and that #1 is pretty close as well. But #3, Dad's, & Big Blue's are waaaaay off.

Perfect. That's exactly what I thought would happen. Thanks, Bill.

And, to what do you attribute that?

I pulled the speedo and cable out today and it appeared to be dry, and when I ran a rag down it there was very little that got on the rag. When I went to O'Reilly's they didn't have any specific speedo lube. However, the vast majority of what I'd found online said that graphite is the way to go, and I found Blaster's spray graphite lube. But right next to it was Blaster's Dry Lube With Teflon. So, bought both. I hung the cable up in the powder coating booth and gave it two coats of graphite, which turned it black. Then I gave it two coats of Teflon, and it was still black to my eye. But the overspray was white and the camera said the cable was white. So I coiled it up in a bowl and sprayed it with a good dose of graphite and Teflon. And then I rolled the mix around to ensure that the cable was saturated. I believe it is now well and truly lubricated.

And, if I remember correctly, you had a minor problem with your t-case, didn't you Jim?

I've seen aluminum intake manifolds cracked because of someone overtightening tapered threads in the temp sender opening. If you can crack an intake manifold, cracking a carb should be easy.

Perfect. Thanks for the clarification.

Perfect! Thanks.

Cory - To which version did you log in? The one in the menu above or the link? And, how do you know you were logged in - you see "Rembrant" in place of "Log in"?

Steve - I assume you mean that you got no error message so it seems you got logged in, but that it doesn't show you logged in. Right? Please try this way into it: http://bullnose-enthusiasts-test-forum.7.gabbleforum.org/

I'm glad your measurements show that they'll swap. But I agree with Jim, if you are going to refresh the t-case you should seriously consider upgrading the oil pump arm.

Ok, guys. Thanks! What you are seeing is consistent with what I've been seeing. I cannot log in to the one embedded on the website. Or, if I do log in and don't get an error message it doesn't tell me that I am logged in. Next question: try logging in here: http://bullnose-enthusiasts-test-forum.7.gabbleforum.org/ In fact, you probably will be logged in when you click on the link. But, please let me know what you find. As to the difference, the one in the menu is embedded on the website. The one in the link above is just on the AWS servers. PLEASE NOTE: THAT IS AN OLD BACKUP SO ANY OF YOU THAT JOINED IN THE LAST MONTH PROBABLY AREN'T A MEMBER ON IT. FURTHER, PLEASE DON'T ASK TO JOIN! THIS IS A TEST-ONLY FORUM AND EVERYTHING ON IT WILL GET BLOWN AWAY AT SOME POINT IN TIME.

Could I get a few of you to try something for me? On the far right of the menu above we have a pick for New Bullnose Test Forum. Could you click on that and see if it shows you as logged in? You'll be able to tell because if you are it'll show your screen name where I've circled Log In on the screenshot below. If you aren't logged in would you try to log in? You should be able to get in with the same email and password as on this version of the forum. THANKS IN ADVANCE!

Good to know, David. Thanks!