Gary Lewis

I get what you're saying Gary and I thought the same until I watched the video I posted below. And, that tool has awesome reviews. Check out the video all the way to the end, as it shows what the cut open cable looks like using several tools. I'll check it out after church, John. Off to Bible class now. Later, gator....

I'm not trying to sell you on Music Center. I don't think I use it. But I think you need it to have Advanced Sound, and in my setup with the "rear" speakers right above and behind you the DSP makes a huge difference. HUGE. As for "don't think I use Music Center", I'm not sure what is pushing the song, artist, and album info to the radio. Perhaps that is Apple's app? Also, I'm not sure where all of the settings are stored. The instructions imply that if you lose the keep-alive signal to the radio you lose the settings. But I've had the radio disconnected for an hour or more and they come back. Is that due to a capacitor or NVM in the radio or might they be saved in the Sony apps? And, as said, the jury is still out on whether or not Google Maps pushes the turn info to the Sony's display via Music Center.

John - Their pricing isn't bad. I just spec'd out the #2 cable that I have from the aux power relay to the inverter, which is right at 10'. Their price with terminals is $33.02 using marine grade cable. I may have had that much in mine as 10' of #2 was $25 from GLS. Then there were the Magnalugs at $2.50/ea and heat shrink.

I have an iPhone X (10). As for "junk", I am not having any problems with what I have. I just don't quite know what adding Google Maps to Sony's Music Center did for me. I'm thinking it may display on the radio the next turn, like "Turn left in 500 feet". I know it shows Google Maps on the display when I first fire it up. But I haven't gone for a drive and played with it yet, so haven't had a route in it for it to display. If so it will be interesting to see how accurate it is. I say that because several times of late Janey's been reading Google Maps and saying "I don't think we are to the turn yet." But as soon as we pass the turn she says "That was it!" So apparently there's a delay in getting the bubble showing our position moved on the screen. But I wonder if that is true of the "Turn left in 500 feet"?

There's a lot of truth in what Jim is saying about marine terminals vs battery posts. Plus, there have been suggestions that the marine terminals may not be capable of supplying as much current as the posts, but that may be an old wife's tale. I'm using marine terminals as the battery that was originally in Big Blue when I got him had them. But if I was doing it over again I'd think about using the posts. And I can make a case for either way. On the crimping tool, I don't like the idea of just driving a stake into the terminal. It doesn't seem very well controlled, nor does it give the neatly crimped terminals the hydraulic crimpers give. For the price difference I'd still go hydraulic. I've used mine many, many times and love the results. I get cables the length I want them. As for copper, I buy mine from Great Lakes Skipper. They have marine cable that is tinned the whole way, which makes it more corrosion-proof, and has small strands so it is more flexible. But their prices are better than some others. Scott/kramttocs has a different supplier, but I've not compared prices. And I went with 2/0 for two reasons. First, I had some left over from the battery work on the boat. But secondly, because Sea Ray used 2/0 on the cables on the boat and I assumed they knew what they were doing.

Jim - Which Sony app? I don't need Music Center, but do need Advanced Car Sound. And, as said, don't understand the "new" Google Maps app. Well, that is interesting! I just fired up Google Maps on my iPhone. Then I fired up Music Center and then selected Google Maps from it. When I did it neatly slid over to the already-open Google Maps app. So I used the trick of going from one app to another on the iPhone and went back to Music Center w/o killing Google Maps, and clicked on the pick in Music Center for Google Maps. Yep, it neatly slides over to the already-open Google Maps, showing wherever I'd left it on the map. IOW, it is the same app. So that raises several questions. First, did clicking "install Google Maps" in Music Center just create a link or did it truly load a different Google Maps? Second, now that I've done that, what is different about the way the radio interacts with it.

In regards to the Google Maps app, I'm not sure what you're saying. I have the app myself and use it all the time. In fact, I like it better than the Nav on my car which I don't keep updated because the app is better. And, if you have a blue tooth unit (stereo), you should be able to run it through that unit such that the voice will be transmitted through your speakers. Maybe you're having some compatibility issues with your unit and the phone??? In my truck, I have a Sony stereo with Blue Tooth and I can utilize the app and listen to the music on my phone through that stereo. John - I wish I understood what I'm saying, but I don't and can't easily go figure it out as I have to be in the truck with the radio on to get the apps, plural, to come up on my phone such that I can check them out. But there are two apps from Sony that I've downloaded to my iPhone - Music Center and Advanced Car Sound. Music Center is a bit like Apple's music app as it lets you play music from your library on the radio - which is confusing 'cause Apple's app does that also. But Advanced Car Sound, if I have the name correct, let's you adjust a whole bunch of things on the radio. Some of those things are also available via the front panel of the radio, like balance and fade. But there are a whole host of other things it can do that are not available via the radio itself, like DSP that changes the delay of the sound from the different speakers. And that stuff works magic! But, there was also an option in Sony Music Center to download a "Google Maps" app. I did, which took some time so it wasn't the Google Maps app that was already on the phone. After that I have an option in Music Center to select Google Maps, and when I do the display on the radio says Google Maps. I've not spent enough time working with it to figure out what is different from the Google Maps app I already had. But it apparently works with the Sony radio in a different way, and I need to figure that out.

John - I have the 16 Ton terminal crimper shown below. That one is currently unavailable, but this one is now available. You are welcome to borrow this one, but it isn't worth it to ship as the round-trip cost would be an appreciable portion of the $60 of getting a new one. And, mine is leaking hydraulic fluid and needs to either have an o-ring replaced or the whole unit replaced. HOWEVER, before you venture down this path, a word of warning: the die are metric and will not properly crimp normal AWG terminals. I've found that Magnelugs are sufficiently larger that they will work fairly well in those die, although they leave a piece of "flashing" sticking out that you'll then need to either trim or crimp back lightly. Magnelugs aren't cheap, although Amazon is 5x the price of where I get them. And you can't just run down to the local hardware store and buy them. But they are good, and I've not had any problems with them whatsoever. So, if I were doing this again I'd look for a crimper with AWG die. I don't know that they exist in the price range I'm willing to pay. But I'd still be looking for them.

I'll probably do that once I see what the pattern looks like with them straight back. That's one of the reasons I wanted stem-mounted lights as that will let me turn them easily. Plus, I didn't want them back close to the crossbar for fear they might hit it when turned. If the spread truly is 60 degrees then I could angle both of them ~25 degrees to the side and still have them meet in the middle. But I do want full coverage as these are intended to be used in camp so I don't want a dark spot.

Yes, there's no doubt the later lens is better. But you also have a different reflector if I remember correctly, and I wonder how much that contributes to the better backup light. I like my Bullnose lenses and I think the LED backup lights are going to make a change of the lens moot. But on the color, I did notice yesterday that these are quite "cool" and I may not like that. However, I also noticed that they aren't as wide-angled as I'd hoped. So I may not like that either. We shall see, literally. I think the fact that I will be able to see is going to be such a huge improvement that it will be some time before I decide I need to change lights. However, that may happen so I'll keep my eyes open for low profile stem-mounted lights that are truly wide angle. But, at $17/pair I haven't gone wrong. Especially when Rigid wants $300/ea for some.

I've powder coated thousands of things, but there's no way I know of to have a powder that matches the colors Ford used on the interiors, unless it is black. And even then there are lots of "blacks". But SEM Color Coat is said to work on metal. So you could match it that way.

That's a good upgrade to a Bullnose. Love mine.

That is really cool! But, being metal it should be able to withstand 400F, right? That being the case the parts could be powder coated. And certainly we could hit them with SEM Color Coat to make them match the interior.

Yes, the later ones are better, but I don't think even they would hold a candle to these. Speaking of these, I said earlier that they come with SAE fasteners. That isn't correct. Or, at least the nuts and bolts that hold the bracket to the truck are metric. I didn't check to see that the socket head cap screws are metric, but I'll bet they are. I discovered my error when I was considering using a ring-tongue connector over that bolt for grounding the lights, and was just going to run another nut down to capture the connector. But a 5/16" nut didn't go and an 8mm did. However, I decided I'd be better off tapping into the ground circuit to the trailer, so went that way.

Ok, got it. And you've already talked to Crutchfield. On the hazard switch, we had a discussion with Steve83 quite some time ago about creating labels to do just that. You might search for it, but I think he was saying there is a type of clear film you can print on with an inkjet printer. Might that work?

Well, to tell the truth I didn't think of that until you asked. And while I haven't tried to put the pin in, I think it'll be ok. I hope. As for what I got done this afternoon, the wiring in the back of the truck is all done. I have the positive wire of the two lights and the trailer connector's backup circuit tied to a #12 that is loosely draped along the frame to the front. And the grounds are also tied into the ground going to the trailer from the frame. So the next thing is to run the trigger wire down to the backup light circuit after the transmission's switch and tie in there. And then run the #12 along that wire up into the engine compartment and tie into the relay. Cover both of them with convolute, secure them, and test. But, I did put the front end of that wire on the battery just for grins and the lights came on, brightly. The shop's door is only ~3' away from them and they put a couple of ovals on it. So I opened the door and looked at them from outside, and discovered they aren't fun to look at. I think they are going to be pretty effective. Speaking of that, I was curious how their rating compares to that of the 1156 bulbs our trucks use for backup lights. These lights are rated at 1800 lumens/ea while the bulbs are rated at 30 candlepower. But a bit of looking found that 12.57 lumens equal 1 candlepower, so that means the 1156 bulbs would have 402 lumens. In other words, these put out 4 1/2 times more light. However, I can't help but think they'll get a lot more of their light where I want it than the stock backup lights which try to send it all through a window the size of a postage stamp.

That was a good question, and it had me wondering, so I looked. Don't think so:

Well, the lights came in at 9:00 AM, less than 18 hours after ordering. Not only am I impressed with the delivery, I'm impressed with the lights. They appear to be very well constructed and came with stainless SAE fasteners. Speaking of those fasteners, one review said assembling the brackets to the lights is a "2-beer" job. Pretty sure that guy didn't understand the cunning plan. In the pic below you can see how it all goes together on the top light with the socket head cap screws going through the bracket and into the light and the nut there. And it is those nuts that were probably the issue for that guy as there is no way to get a tool in there to hold them. But on the lower light you can see the nut on the left is in a little recess with a divider behind it. Just drop the nut in there and insert the SHCS and it lines up nicely. So, what did I do with the rest of my morning? I removed the ball, moved the trailer connector, and mounted the lights, with the inside of all of the new holes getting two coats of paint. Now if I can just get them wired up.

Yippee! Congrat's!

Ingenious! Well done! I was going to suggest what Crutchfield says about cutting a hole in the foam baffles to get better bass, but then realized that those are not intended for bass. Right? Do you have bigger speakers somewhere?

I've seen cracked dashes, but not truly broken like that one is. As for fixing, you'd have to glue fish plates on the back to keep it together. I don't know if there are places where you could get enough "meat" back there to hold it, but I've not looked. And even then you'll have a crack showing.

I don't have one Gary, that is why I said proposed. I may do some more review work on this type of item and acquire one in my next Amazon purchase. All my cars have phone holders in them except my truck and I have long meant to acquire one for it. But yes, sure looks like it would clip to the dash. I'll be anxious to see what you find out, John. However, most of my trips are with a copilot, so having her/him handle the directions has worked out pretty well and I might not need a holder. On the other hand, I downloaded a Google Maps app into the Sony Music Center app, which connects to the phone via Bluetooth, and it appears to do something with respect to directions through the radio. I don't understand that 'cause the phone already read the next turn info via the audio, so I need to figure out what it does. Oh, speaking of Amazon orders, I ordered those backup lights at 3:39 PM yesterday. They are "Out For Delivery" and are due here between 7:00 and 9:45 AM.

Looks like you have plenty to do for the weekend! Your friend does know how important it is to have parts. Good friend to have.

That is a MAJOR milestone! Well done, Ron!!!!

Jim - I'm also using this circuit to provide power to the trailer backup lights and won't know what lights are on the trailer, or even what trailer is connected, beforehand. In addition, I used rather small wire in Mission Control because it was getting crowded, and I'm sure glad I did as I had to bend the wires a bit just to get it to go in. So while these lights would surely work w/o a relay, I decided I might as well add one while I was adding the fog light relay. Had the relays and there were two screw holes for mounting, so it didn't take much to do it. But thanks.