Gary Lewis

For a '96?

Looking good, Jason! I love the look of that interior. And you are right, the other arm rests were in much better shape. On the pics, you have to open them in another app and save them. That usually re-orients them. Usually. The deal is that when you take a picture your camera encodes orientation information in the metadata. Smart phones, tablets, and most software read that information and orient the picture properly for display. But most forums, including this one, don't read that data. Opening the pic in another app, like Photoshop, typically re-orients the pic. So if you save it that usually saves it with the correct orientation. Or, learn to always take your pics with the camera oriented the "proper" way. (Just kidding. I don't know what the "proper" way is on my iPhone, and I always edit the file.)

Not a bad price for a lot of truck.

The Motorcraft pigtail catalog is at Documentation/Electrical/Connectors. Hope that helps.

Glad you were safe. Be careful, and it may be time to upgrade your "system". How far away is getting the SuperDuty online?

Well done, Chris! The less you destroy getting it apart the less there is to fix it.

Further to my thinking about crimpers, the previous one I listed is overkill for what we are doing as it has die for very large wire. But TEMco has this smaller one: TEMCo Hydraulic Cable Lug Crimper TH0006 V2.0 5 US TON 12 AWG to 00 (2/0) that is "only" $115. And it looks to be just the right size for what I do. Plus, its die are also AWG sized, like its big brother. However, you need to be careful in the reviews on Amazon. In the case of both the TEMco crimpers they are advertising the V2.0 crimper, but most of the reviews are for the earlier version, which didn't have the AWG die. The 5 ton V2.0 says that it came out on Sept 1st, 2020, so any review prior to that, and maybe even after that, would have been for the old version.

Good progress, Nick. But, I just gotta tell you I think you misunderstood the term "spare tire".

I don't know, but you might be a bit late on that call, Jonathan! Surely you weren't going very fast?

I'll bet it is! And if it has the ability to take a screw to hold the back plate then the biggest problem with the locks would be solved.

Not a Saginaw. It's for a '76 Ford Bronco. I don't know when the C-II pumps were used, this might possibly predate that. But definitely not a Saginaw. I haven't warmed it up yet. This was just backing it out of the garage, turning it around and backing it back in. Having it die today certainly isn't good news, but it's not particularly bad news either. I'm not really going to worry about it until I do get a chance to warm it up. On the plus side, it started great every time I tried! So it'll get there, but there may be a little more carb work before summer. Pump is pretty new. Maybe 10 years at the most, but even if it's that long it's still only 30K miles. And it has stopped with the bolts back in, but that's with no pressure. I'm going to have to keep an eye on it when I get a chance to get it hot. Not quite next, but soon. First up is finishing the rear drum brake conversion by getting the parking brake working. The pedal is hidden behind the roll cage "A" pillar bar, so I'm gonna hafta get a little crafty on it. Driver side rock slider is next after that. I'm hoping to have both of those wrapped up around the beginning of April. Interesting. Learned something. In this thread on FTE Bill/Numberdummy says: As for the running, maybe it'll clear up when it warms up - both the engine and the outside temps. And you'll be nervous about the water pump leak, so good luck when it does warm up. On the parking brake pedal, can you space it out and be able to get to it w/o it, or you, hitting the clutch pedal?

We can probably come up with backing plates. But the rest of it is usually broken, if not missing. Can you do it in plastic for less cost?

I'm with Jim - the one in your hand is probably the seatbelt wiring, with a BR/LB wire and a BK wire. The other isn't factory so we can't tell from here.

I'll bet that made a difference! I was wishing for a rear window tint the other morning. We took Big Blue some place and Janey went in while I sat in the truck - pointed west. Man, that sun came in STRONG, even though it was cold outside.

Yep, I'd go like Jim suggested with two separate cables. As far as size, this table says that is probably a #2 cable. Stranded wire is very difficult to measure and determine the size of because the # of strands makes a big difference. In fact, a #2 can go from .306" to .373" in diameter depending on the strands, and that is just from that chart. I'd be willing to bet the #2 I have been using has more than 36 strands, which would make it even larger in diameter. But it would still have the same current rating.

Danny - I hate to point this out, but the email I sent you asked you to start a thread in the New Members Start Here folder to introduce yourself. There are several reasons for that, but the main one is so you have a chance to see the guidelines as that is where we keep them. It is important that you have a chance to see and read them as we hold everyone to them. So before we start discussing your harness questions, please follow that link, read the guidelines, and then start a new thread/topic to introduce yourself. Then we can help you with the harness.

Yes, if you can find the head and get it out that would be better than using a saw.

Yep, and I've tried to pull them apart. They seem to be truly fused. And the insulation goes right up to the spot where they are fused, so there wasn't much heat. I've been thinking about my 16-ton crimper, and I don't want people to think it is the best thing since sliced bread. It has worked for me, but I have always had the problem of it not crimping correctly, which I attributed to the die being sized for metric wire. To compensate I've been using the much thicker Magnalugs, but even then the die leave "wings" sticking out to the side. Given that and the fact that my crimper is now failing I've been keeping my eyes open for a possible replacement. And I may have found one. It is called TEMCo Industrial Hydraulic Cable Lug Crimper TH0005 V2.0, and while it is $140 it has AWG die instead of metric ones. In fact, it has 32 die sets from 10 gauge to 600 MCM, including half-steps between sizes so you fine tune your crimps. And, on the TEMco site they say "Leading competitors flattened hex profile attempts to compensate for poor die to terminal fit. This under crimps and often leaves sharp “wings.” That seems to perfectly describe my die. I'm not ready to buy, but I am saying that the run-of-the-mill Chinese crimpers don't have the right die. So if any of you know of other crimpers that appear to have the right die, meaning ones that are in AWG sizes, please let me know.

The published lengths are 6 3/4' and 8'. You can see that in the 1980 brochure here.

Looks great, Clay! Rusty is really shaping up. Tires: Something different than the ones you have? They are noisy, but not as noisy as the Cooper Discoverer S/T Maxx tires on Big Blue. Maybe there is something that still provides the traction but is quieter? Wheels: Are you wanting to go bigger, like 16"?

I don't see a lot of issues with the fender, so I'd ask my paint and body man if he can sort it out instead of buying a new one. Some of the new ones don't have very thick metal. On the screw, might the head be under the Bondo? I'd worry that getting a Sawsall in there would tear things up. Can you get to the screw to twist it and see if it'll break free of the Bondo?

You are running a Saginaw pump and it has a C-II whine? I've not heard one do that. Interesting. Hope the noise goes away. And even with the rebuilt carb it sometimes dies? Even after it warms up? Any chance you have a vacuum line loose? (You probably don't have many vacuum lines on it?) Plus you have a coolant leak/weep? How new is the pump? Maybe it'll stop with the bolts back in? As for the next project, doing the driver's side like you did the passenger's side?

I get what you're saying Gary and I thought the same until I watched the video I posted below. And, that tool has awesome reviews. Check out the video all the way to the end, as it shows what the cut open cable looks like using several tools. John - I'm watching the video and taking notes: Marine Terminals: He has an excellent point that they are good if you are going to add accessories. I have a winch as well as the aux power cable on the aux battery. Terminals: He said terminals can be expensive and may go to $5/ea. He's buying the wrong ones from the wrong place. I got 5 Magnalug #2 & 1 GA for $11.66, making them $2.33/ea. And I don't think you can come close to the Magnalug quality with the cheap copper terminals he's using. Magnalugs are ~twice as thick and are already tinned. Dow Corning Compound: I add Dow's electrical compound/grease into the terminal before inserting the wire. Yes, it is an insulating grease, but it gets squeezed out in the crimp. However, I wonder if a connection were cut apart like he did what it would look like with the grease? Crimper vs Staker: He had a good point that it would be hard to hit the staker up under a truck. I do my best to make my connections on the bench, but the ones I recently did through the cab corners were done on the truck. But, as I think about it, had I put the grommet on the wire before installing the terminal I could have made it on the bench. Still, there will be a time. Tinned wire: He was using raw copper wire. I really prefer the tinned "marine cable" as I know the solder is going to prevent corrosion far better than copper. All in all, it was an informative video. His findings of the strands having been mashed into a solid matches what I've seen before. But his problem with die sizing also matches what I've seen and experienced. So the striking tool does have some advantages as it is one-size-fits-all. But my 16-ton crimper sure does a nice job as well. Guess you can't go wrong.

I think you may be missing something. (Or, maybe it is me that is missing something?) 9A050 is the base part number for a SWITCH ASSY. (FUEL TANK SELECTOR) for any Ford vehicle made anywhere in the world from the mid-1960's until now. And adding the suffix "-C" to it just narrows it down to several million possibilities. What you are missing is the prefix, which will be something like E3TZ or E6TZ, with E3 meaning 1983 as the first use and E6 meaning 1986 as the first use. But an E3TZ 9A050-C is used for the little Ranger truck. And the only 9A050-C that was used for the F-Series was E6TZ 9A050-C and it is only for a 1986 truck. So, can we go back to Square One? Are you looking for the fuel tank selector valve for a 1984 302? Where did you get 9A050-C?

Glad they made it, Clay. Good luck! 👍