Gary Lewis

The best way to test sending units is to pull the wire from the sending unit and ground it. With the key on the gauge should go to full scale if it is working correctly. Then put a volt/ohm meter on the sending unit. It should read somewhere between 10 ohms for full and 72 ohms for empty. But your symptoms sound like someone may have put a Bricknose sending unit in, which will read about 160 ohms full and 16 ohms empty - meaning backwards and with a different range. As for the fuse for the selector switch, this says it is #15, and it came from Documenation/Electrical/EVTM/1985 EVTM/FUEL TANK SELECTOR & GAUGES (DIESEL). Where did you see that it is #3?

Wink - I'm glad you joined. But you may have missed the email that Scott sent you asking you to go to the New Members Start Here folder and start a new thread/topic there to introduce yourself. One of the reasons we ask that is because the guidelines are posted there and we want to ensure you've had a chance to read them as we hold everyone to them. So, have you? As for the sending unit, go to the page at Documentation/Fuel Systems/Fuel System Part #'s/Fuel Senders & Pumps. There you'll see the various tanks and the sender part numbers to go into them.

Big difference in turning radius.

Sorry, I missed that. But the specific tire makes a difference. I just went to Tire Rack and compared 5 different tires of that size and found a tread width difference from 8.1" to 8.8". And I'm remembering the tires on Rusty as being quite wide, so maybe they are even wider than 8.8"? In other words, I'd compare the exact tire I was considering to one that is known to rub, like those on Rusty. Maybe the difference would keep them for rubbing?

Not to me though.

Yes, it is cool. But I think I'd repaint it.

It probably depends on the tires. The 31's that were on Rusty when I sold him were wider than normal, so that may have contributed to the rubbing. I'd go on Tire Rack and compare the widths of tires. Maybe even find out what is on Rusty from Clay.

Assuming you don't have limited slip, which is rare, when turning an axle shaft coming out of the diff another shaft has to turn. In other words, if you turn the passenger-side shaft either the diff's input yoke or the driver's side axle will turn. And that is determined by how much resistance the shafts have. If the t-case is in 4wd then the input yoke can't turn and the driver's shaft will turn. But if it isn't in 4wd then the input yoke will usually turn as the brake disk is usually dragging on the pads, causing more friction on the driver's shaft than the input. In other words, you probably don't have a problem.

Actually, here's what Hagerty says about VIN X36SKEE3664. So is it a #2 or #3? What do y'all think?

Very nice. At $10k with 4 days left, I wonder if it'll hit $20k?

Yup.

You are now on the map.

I agree with Jim - you've found the problem. Well done!

The rest of the cab is super solid, just that drivers floor is absolutely wrecked. I can fix it but its more of do I really want to because I know how involved it is. On the other hand my wheels came out great. Those wheels do look GOOD! How wide are they?

I can't imagine it coming in for less than $40K US. Man, that is a LOT of work. And good work too. Had to LOL when she was trying to put the headliner in. I have not been successful doing it that way. Much easier to use supports and put it in a bit at a time. Anyway, the truck looks wonderful!

Hello, Nick & George. Good to hear from you. And I hope you get things ready for hurricane season, but don't have any!

I don't know of one, but they are fairly simple to make. I bought a piece of square tubing with the reinforcement on the end and the holes for the pin at Northern Tool and made crossmembers to weld it to.

Welcome, Jerry! Glad you joined. Where's home? I ask because we have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and we could add you if we had a city/state or zip.

I think you'll find the winch bumpers are in short supply, so you'll be able to sell it if you want to do so.

Plans had to change a bit. I lost the last three weeks to a medical issue (not Covid, but not something I'm going to discuss on-line, I am getting back to 100% and expect to get there soon). We have a trip with the Bronco planned in May, so at least the rock slider and possibly the parking brake are going to have to wait until after that trip. The biggest priorities were the things that NEEDED to be done before the trip. When I bought this Bronco in ~2002 the shock bushings seemed a bit suspect. I don't know how old the shocks were then, but I'm doubting they've improved in the last 19 years! And with the vibration I was getting last summer (which may have been primarily tire balance but could be shock-related) I figured it was time to replace the shocks. I pulled the old ones off about a month ago when I was starting on the parking brake project (hence NEEDING to get them replaced before the trip!). And today I got the new shocks installed. The other little project today was the fuel switching valve. Years ago I replaced the original mechanical valve with an electrical one that would be switched with the same switch that changes which tank is being read by the fuel gauge. Then a few less years ago I replaced that valve with another electrical one (the first electrical valve stranded me by not switching when I flipped the switch, so I ran out of gas while still having a full tank). Last summer the second electrical valve started leaking. Not dripping on the ground, but it would pull a little from whichever tank was not selected. So when I'd run on the 20 gallon main tank first, when I'd switch to the 9 gallon aux tank expecting it to be full it might only have about 3-4 gallons. That got a little spooky a couple of times. So with two electrical valves giving me issues I decided to go back to a mechanical valve. I swapped that in today as well. Now I need to remember to switch both the gauge and the valve when I want to change tanks. But it should be more reliable. I'm sorry you've had the medical problem, but glad to see you are getting back to 100%, Bob. . And I understand NEEDED instead of WANTED. Sounds like the fuel system is needed, and I think the mechanical switch is a good upgrade. (Regrade? Downgrade?) I think it is just a matter of time until the electrical ones fail, which is why I didn't want one on Big Blue. Plus the shocks are probably needed as well since they'll keep the tires from cupping. Plus, they are easily changed out. So, what else is "needed"?

Oh, there's an alignment pin? Then that's what happened to the hole. He pried the transmission adapter off it and broke the casting. No biggie, it will stick work fine. Yes, that’s probably what happened. That would break it.

I forgot that you asked what kind of gasket. I’ve put them on with just RTV, but prefer the paper gasket with some RTV on it. The plug might be the alignment pin? It just ensures it goes on correctly.

Yep, that should be the one. 👍

That's a good catch! However, the Master Parts Catalog says it is only for the E-series vans. This is the whole of the listing:

Shaun - Is that a 208? So a 208 shifts backwards from a 1345?