Gary Lewis

That looks ..... scary! Like it would cut through anything. Wow!

Yes, I'm sure glad I shut the hood when I did. Otherwise I probably would have missed the appointment. But boy, did I feel DUMB! At one point I had the wire from that fuse in my hand, but didn't even think about using it instead of the jumper. It would have been easier, better, and would have blown instead of the wire burning up.

I've never seen that done, but it makes sense. Well done! Good luck on the engine.

Glad you found it.

Yes! I intended to say that in my post but forgot.

Not a bad price. No wonder it sold quickly.

Wow! That's CHEAP!

I'm sorry, but that belongs in a bathroom. Not a truck. (But Dad's truck had one in it. )

Fairly expensive, but if you need it you need it.

Too expensive? That's highway robbery! $600 for the item and $100 for shipping when you can buy a new, recently manufactured one for about $500? And when you got the NOS one I'd bet it'd be cracked just from the shipping. No way, Jose!

Thanks, Danny. I bought some 1" x 3/4" and will see if it is too tall, but if it is I'll try some of the 7/16" stuff. But 1 1/4" wide is just a bit too wide so I hope the 1" stuff will work.

Yep, good thing you waited.

Well, it was an interesting day. All went well until I was done and closed the hood. But I'll get to that in a bit. The first thing I did was to vacuum the bed and hit all the holes and rust with primer. While that dried I called the Line-X guy and asked how to show him which holes to "close" and which ones to leave open. He said to just put an X through the ones I want closed and they'll put thin tape on the front side of the holes. After coating it with the bed liner you won't be able to see the hole nor where the tape is. Ok, so I X-d out all of the holes to be closed, and put the grommets in for the bed cover's drain tubes 'cause they'd never fit if the bed had 1/8" of Line-X on it around the hole. Then it was time to install the new fender-mounted starter relay. That meant removing the coolant recovery reservoir and its bracket as well as the bracket for the PDB. That let me get to the wiring below the PDB, and I made the necessary changes to extend the R/LB wire to the relay as well as the #10 going down to the starter. And the latter was done by using a butt connector and crimping it with my new 5-ton crimper then soldering the connection and covering it with shrink tubing. Then I mounted the relay on the fender behind the coolant recovery reservoir, ran the #10 from the starter to it and again crimped the terminal. Ditto the R/LB trigger wire. And finally I made a #10 jumper from the battery terminal on the PDB where the #2 battery lead terminates. Jumped in the truck and hit the key and it cranked right up. No more stuttering noises. Then I put it all back together without losing any of the myriad of 1/4-20 SS fasteners that hold it all together. Put the tools up and closed the hood. Man, there was a serious POP and when I opened the hood all of the smoke had run out of the #10 jumper. Turns out that the hood hinge hit the hot terminal on the starter relay. Good thing the appointment isn't until 1:00 tomorrow as I plan to pull it all back apart and extend the wire from the fuse in the PDB that I'd been using to protect the cube relay. I should have done that in the first place. Oh, and I'll move the relay.

That is so COOL!

You can post a video. Save it to Youtube, say Share, and copy the embed code. Come here and tick the Message Is In HTML Format box to the upper left, and paste it in.

Hope it fits. At least you got LMC to work with you. And I got Inline Tube to work with me. They acknowledged that they sometimes put the wrong fitting on, so they made a new part with the right fitting and shipped it to me. Then I bent it correctly and put it on.

You are now on the map. But you don't happen to know the guy over in Reno that calls himself OleRed do you? I'm going to tag him with this post. Maybe you two can meet. As for the trim, I'd think something like 3M™ General Trim Adhesive would be the stuff.

Welcome! Glad you joined. What part of Nevada? I ask because we have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and we could add you if we had a city or zip. As for the truck, it looks straight and without rust. Those are big pluses. I added your pic, but you may want to look at the how-to on Bullnose Forum/Forum FAQ's. I don't know anything about getting a diesel to pass muster, so will leave that to others.

I hadn't thought of that, Jim. I installed the vent some time ago, but I'll check it. Thanks.

Thanks for catching that, Jim!!!!

I bought directly from Inline Tube and ran into the exact same problem. Had to rebend every line to fit, and one of the brake lines coming from the tee on the rear axle had the wrong fitting. I called them and they said "We mostly work on Chevy vehicles and can't figure out the Fords with all of the different rear axles they had." What! All of the rear axles use the same brake lines within the same size truck, meaning F150 vs F250, etc. I won't buy Inline Tube again.

You want the 1981 EVTM. Go to Documents/Electrical/EVTMs/1981 EVTM. And the wire you are looking for is red with a white stripe. I think all the Windsors had the temp sender close to the thermostat on the intake manifold. Glad the LEDs are that bright. The color looks very good.