Gary Lewis

After painted it should look a little better and stop the rust. I am not sure why this part is not offered aftermarket. For the end I got some fender washers from Northern Tool that I sandwich on the end to reinforce it. They are frequently available NOS. Go to page Documentation/Electrical/Battery Trays and you'll see the illustrations. There the hold down is base part number 10A691. Scroll on down and you'll see that the right hand hold down appears to be part # E0TZ 10A691-A for most applications. Then search for that part number online.

OX Lockers offer a locker for the D44. I'm running one of theirs in my D60, but haven't really used it yet. However, their customer support has been excellent.

I agree. But I'm confused with the instructions from Pace Edwards. They say "Rotate the assembly so that the kickstand will push as squarely as possible against the bed wall (FIG. 6B), then tighten the wing nut." But I think the leg of the kickstand has to be angled downward for this to work well, and ideally pretty significantly downward. Then there will be an upward vector as you tighten the bolt. Assuming the "A" clamps and the rails themselves are rigid, the rotation point will be in the inner lip of the bed, just above the toe of the "A" clamp. And given how close the toe of the clamp will be to the bend where the lip heads down, I'm guessing the rotation point will be at that bend. So you want the rail to be close to level when you've tightened the "A" clamps and the kickstand just prevents any rotation. What am I missing?

It can still be the rear main or the back of the intake manifold. If either leak the oil will show up there.

Yes, I think it is promising, for sure. And I agree that it makes sense to make the tracks to take the same mounts. I sure would. So I hope that the kickstands will fit. If so, I'm thinking of placing pieces of aluminum channel like so and having three kickstands/side: one ahead of the stake pocket and two behind. And using two of the "A" clamps/side, one in the front and one at the back to give the right spacing between the rails. So the kickstands would provide most of the vertical support, although the foam rubber and "A" clamps would help, and the "A" clamps provide positive side/side location.

By the way, I should have pointed out that you've missed the email that Jim sent you that asked you to go to the New Members Start Here folder and introduce yourself, and which point you'd be free to post here in the main section. The reason for that is that we have the guidelines posted in the NMSH folder and want to make sure everyone has a chance to see them as we hold everyone to them. So please do that.

See the page at Documentation/Exhaust Systems. On that page look at the Illustrations tab and you'll see there were two cats: 5E212 and 5F250 being the base part numbers. To find your part numbers you need to find the part list number, and you do that by going to the Part Numbers tab and in that go to the Model Application Chart tab. Find your part list number, then go to the Parts List tab and scroll down to that part list. As for all of them being the same, I don't think so. There are over 250 parts lists, so I've not gone through all of them. But in the first few I see E0, E1, and E2 prefixes, and later I see E6 and E9 prefixes. So I know there were changes.

Thanks for the overview. The bit about the Mongoose cable I understood quite well. EEPROM? Yep, done my share of those. Good luck on repairing the boards.

Man, those look like a pain to repair. Hope you have steady hands and a magnifying hood or lens. But how are you going to reprogram the chip? Or do you need to?

Progress!

Yes, I specifically told the guy what the truck is and we talked about the mods I'd have to make to the rails to get it on. So I'm surprised I don't have the right hardware to install them on that truck properly. I've done a lot of looking and testing, and here are some thoughts from that, with the pics and discussions below. It looks to me like the 1/4" closed-cell foam tape will help as I laid some in and could tell the difference. And the "A" clamps will work, but it would take several of them to get a lot of support. However, while the kickstands would provide the most support I don't think the bedside is solid enough for them and I'd want to put some extra reinforcement on there, but that is assuming that the kickstands work with the rails used with the Bed Locker. But I'd like everyone's thoughts on this before I discuss it with Pace Edwards tomorrow. So now for the pics and discussion. Below is a pic of one of the "A" clamps in place with the rails leveled. You can see that the clamp is tilting slightly away from the lip of the bed at the top, so the clamp would actually try to raise the inside edge of the rail a bit when tightened down. And the bolt will be towards the top of the lip, which is obviously where it is more rigid and will provide more support. And with the clamps at the back of the bed the rail-to-rail distance is 1/16" too narrow, but I think they would probably spread out about that much if the clamps were bolted down. So I don't think I'll have to thin the clamps any. Plus the head of the 1/4-20 bolts they sent fits nicely in the gap between the top of the clamp and the rail, so I won't have to countersink a screw. Also, the space between the inside edge of the bed and the underside of the rail is .154", so the 1/4" closed-cell foam weather strip I have will provide some support to the rail. Not a lot, but some. The pic below shows the inside of the bed, with the notable things to see being where the stake pocket is and that there are reinforcement ribs on the inside of the bed. So I could use a kickstand on the stake pocket, but I don't think the inside of the bed is really up to having the kickstands directly against it. However I'm thinking I could hold some of the aluminum channel I have to the bedside with nutserts and bolts and have the kickstands rest on them. (I'd trim the channel down so it doesn't really look like just channel, and I'd powder coat them black.)

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You are now on the map.

Trace - Ford didn't change the wire colors, so you should be able to match up the wires. But are there specific wires you are asking about? The best reference is the Electrical & Vacuum Troubleshooting Manuals (EVTM) and we have both the 1981 and '85 on the site: Documentation/Electrical/EVTM/and then either the '81 or the '85. They are broken into systems, so if you want to know about the charging system there's a section for that. Does that help?

Welcome, Trace! Glad you joined, and finally quit lurking. Where's home? We have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and could add you if we had a city/state or zip.

This was in Garner NC The show I was invited to is on May 15 in Holly Springs NC at Ting Park, 8am to 12pm check in awards at 2pm and cruise to follow ending at 5pm https://www.google.com/search?q=all+ford+car+show+holly+springs+nc&rlz=1C1KMZB_enUS571US571&oq=&aqs=chrome.0.69i59i450l8.414208339j0j15&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8&ibp=htl;events&rciv=evn&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiZ9pm8tKvwAhUaCc0KHVXECF8Q5bwDMAB6BAgFEAE#fpstate=tldetail&htidocid=L2F1dGhvcml0eS9ob3Jpem9uL2NsdXN0ZXJlZF9ldmVudC8yMDIxLTA1LTE1fDY1MjM2Nzg2MTk3NTM5Njk2OA%3D%3D&htivrt=events&mid=/g/11mc8v111y You might try Google for local shows or cruises in your area as there has to be something a little closer to you up there. I was thinking late last night that I did not get any pictures of anything It really did not look that bad. At the time I did not even think of taking any and dont know why? Maybe because it was the first time out since the "lock down" or having the truck out for its real first showing where people come to look at cars & trucks? Or could have been I lost my driving rights the night before, son drove my truck to / from show. DMV put my lic. "inactive" because of an issue with the medical card for my CDL (truck lic) and in NC it also kills your rights to drive a car. I hope to get this fixed in a few days but you know how local DMV can be Sorry guys on the no pictures Dave ---- That's a bummer, Dave! Sorry to see that. Hope you get it sorted out soon.

I wasn't aware that the 78 & 79 trucks used the same one.

Jim - That's a good find on the kick stands. I'm including the instructions on them, below. And I'm going to have a conversation with Tech Support at Pace Edwards tomorrow to see how to best solve the problem. In the interim I'm going to go out in a few minutes and see what the options are. You have a point about the stake pockets as they are a nicely reinforced point, so maybe I can use them. I'll take some pics and post here in a bit.

Ahhh! I see, an 82 degree countersunk head. Ok, that makes more sense. Thanks for the clarification. Those might be just right with their 1/2" length as they'll just have to pass through the lip and then into the washer/nut combo or aluminum plate. As for a fender washer, I don't know how high up the lip the bolt hole will be, and I was thinking a 1/4" fender washer might hang down. But, as you said, I can thread an aluminum plate and use it as the washer and nut. But on the bolt size, remember that these rails may have a rack and a tent mounted on them. So I need lots of clamping force. As you can see, the track in the rail is right on the inner edge of the bed, so if the 1/4" foam tape I'm placing under there compresses just right it'll take a lot of the weight. But I still need the clamps to bear part of the load, which is why I want to have at least three per side instead of the two that Pace Edwards planned for. And maybe four/side. So, how does that figure into the sizing of the bolt/screw?

Yes, I'll need to spread the load on the back side of the lip. But instead of fender washers, which may be too tall to hide, I might use some of that aluminum I have as I can make the plate to fit and they'll have plenty of meat. I'd not heard of "wafer head" screws, but Fastenal has them in 1/4-20, as do plenty of others, so that's a good option. Thanks. But even the button-head screws I've used in many places on the truck may have a lower profile than a hex headed bolt. I'll have to see.

I can look later today to see what Big Blue's are like, but I think there's only about 1" of gap. However, other trucks I've worked on have had several inches of gap, so the 1" on Big Blue might be because I'm running a '95 tank in an '85 truck.

John - Well done, all the way around - save for the POR-15 on your arms. Been there, done that, and had the black spots to prove it for at least a week. I can't seem to use that stuff w/o getting it on me, but I sure like the way it adheres to metal. And you made those decals? That is cool! You need to offer them for sale. I'll buy two.

I played with an A clamp yesterday briefly and the rails are too stiff to put one on the rear w/o using one on the front. So I hope to put use the two I have today on the driver's side rail and see if that will level it. And you are right about using a counter-sunk screw. In the front there will be no room for a bolt head if the clamp is on the inside of the lip. In fact, a 1/4" bolt head may be too thick with the clamp on the outside and the bolt head on the inside.

That is a VERY healthy price. Interesting that it has a Bullnose steering wheel on it. And I wonder why they bothered to go with the Chevy transmission? The ZF5 has a slightly lower 1st gear and overdrive, but otherwise they are closely matched. Why go to the trouble of adapting?