Gary Lewis

Well, that's a cheap fix. But you'd better check them like you said.

Alex - You clearly have either the wrong instrument bezel or the wrong radio bezel. If someone switched out the instrument bezel then you are looking for a matching radio bezel, I understand. But what you might not understand is that there were 4 different "base" bezels: 1980-81; 1982-83; 1984; & 1985-86. So you need to figure out which one you have if you want to match it. Our page at Documentation/Interior/Instrument And Radio Bezels has some information about the different ones. But the best thing to do would be for you to post a picture of what you have so maybe someone can say "I have what you are looking for".

Yes, carving it out of a solid block is SLOW! And there is a lot of waste - unless you have a rather large hole saw. And, as you said, it is a welder's truck, not a machinist's. But I'd worry about breaking the carb off if it tilts sideways very much.

Progress!!

Yep. Good for cruising.

Have you discovered the wiring diagrams here: Documentation/Electrical/Wiring Diagrams?

Yes, in moderation. Otherwise you can crank that thing down to any size you want.

Well, that looks like something I might have done. Have lathe, will turn. But do you think it is strong enough to hold up that air cleaner?

Nothing to show for today as I worked at the church building. Hopefully tomorrow I'll have something done. Scott - No, I'd never solder in a tight, cramped corner fearing I'd drop solder on the carpet or melt something. Dane - I'm not proposing to rewire the cargo light. I might if it were that functional, but the gullwing doors on the tool box mean the cargo light doesn't shine IN the box, just ON it. And if/when I put a tent on it'll light up the tent's front. I'm just planning to add LED strip lights up under the bedsides. Jim - Thanks for the link. I like those lights, but I've discovered that there's a 64" run between the canister for the bed cover and the rear stake pocket, so these LED strips look to be just right at 60". The only place I may have a minor problem is right at the middle stake pocket since there's only a 3/4" space between it and the lip and the spec's on these say they are 1" wide. But I'll bet I can figure something out to get them by at that point, like turn them on their sides for a ways.

Like a dummy, I didn't think about power for the bed cover, so didn't populate #10 while I was in there. So I'm going back and it'll be power for everything in the bed.

Good plan on keeping the speed down. These trucks make a barn door look aerodynamic. And if the weatherstripping is the worst of what you found then the truck really is solid.

Bob - Thanks. That's the conclusion I'm coming to as well. I think I'll power the bed lights off the always-hot circuit for the bed cover, which is going to be Fuse 10 - which means I have to go back into the fuse box. And I'm adding two power outlets in the bed on the same circuit so I can have 12v in the tent if I want. As for the switch, my 2015 has that switch on the left side just inside the bed from the tailgate. So I think that's where I'll put it. Thanks again.

Question for y'all. As I'm pulling the wires to the bed I'm debating on how I want the lights in the bed to be powered/switched. I'd initially thought I want them to be on the cargo light circuit so I can turn them on with the headlight switch. But that means I need to put a switch in the Highliner headliner to turn the dome light off. So now I'm thinking I'll just put a switch in the bed so they can be turned off/on from there. Thoughts? Jim - What LED strip lights did you use under the hood? Do you like them?

The search engines are turning up this site more and more for people, so we are starting to get a larger and larger stream of visitors. Glad the site is helping them. And you.

Congrat's! So have you already driven it the 1000 miles home?

It is a Napa echlin TP-40. I made a quick run to town and back and the guy behind the counter swapped it out with the one they had on the shelf no questions asked. I came home, installed the new box, and everything is once again right in my world... A big sigh of relief. Now all that is left is everything, but I can go bolt up the steering column fully and put the dash together. You hit the key and it fires right up, goes to high idle, blip the throttle, and it is down on low idle and sounds so much better... Thanks to BOTH Jim and Gary. You guys were on the point with the issue. Luck or skill I will take either. So now I suppose the next order of business is an additional oil change since I can start and run it. I want to circulate the seafoam for another hour in the oil before changing the oil on the truck. I have the filter and oil here (perhaps tomorrow I can get that done). Then find a "good" used tire for the front that keeps going flat. Not sure what after that yet. Honestly I have been incredibly lucky in this gamble of purchases. Welder was locked up and unknown... Freed and fixed up. Truck had sat for maybe 20 years... Got it going now. Compressor is functional. Two decent trailers, one needs a wood deck, but I am in good shape. I think I am invested just under $1800 in everything now. Congrat's!!! This purchase has worked out very well for you.

I've not heard a starter make a tapping noise. But I have been told that flex plates can make a popping noise if they are cracked.

Bummer! Hope the seller will send you another one - if they have one. Or reimburse you.

Dad used to say "I'd rather be lucky than good." Glad you found it. As Jim said, obviously the module is defective.

Power is somehow getting to the Red/Light Blue wire going to the starter relay when you turn the key to run. As shown below, there are only supposed to be three connections to that wire: ignition switch, which is supposed to be the source of the power; ignition module which is a consumer of the power; and the relay, which is also a consumer. I'd pull the connection at the ignition module and see if that makes a difference. If it still cranks in Run I'd trace the R/LB wires and see where something else is connected to them.

Nothing to actually show for today, but I started on the wiring from the bed to the cab. That will include power and ground as well as close and open signals for the bed cover, lighting power for the bed, and input to the security system from pin switches on the toolbox. Those wires will feed down the driver's side front stake pocket then through a new hole in the back of the cab, which I drilled today. I'll post pics of it later as I get it done, but this will lead into finishing the wiring for the security system.

When the kids lived there we ate there several times. But haven't been back since they moved away. Good food!

Yippee!!!!

It broke where the screw captures it in the safety. I didn't crank down as hard on it this time, but I got 100' and it only takes 20, so if it breaks this time I'll figure something else out.