Gary Lewis

Nice truck and nice price.

Sounds like a good solution. Well done!

Hope it works out, Shaun.

Not a bad price at all. And that is probably the most comprehensive, and honest, writeup I've seen.

Scott - Yep, it got pretty stormy here just after I got back. Lots of lightning and wind. Was glad to have the truck put away. And yes, there's one more test before the head scratching. Maybe will get to try it tomorrow when we get back from Grove to decorate graves. (Oddly enough, we'll drive part of the GOAT to get to the cemetery. ) Bill - The ring-tongue connector is ground for the AFR meter, and goes under one of the two mounting screws for the amplifier. And I checked all the wiring - it is in place. But, I can't tell from your schematic or mine whether the wiring is the same between the modules. Both EVTM's show the same circuits going to them, but you probably have another page showing 8 more connections - 6 to the servo and 2 from the speed sensor. The '85 EVTM shows them on a separate page, so I assume yours does. But neither shows the pin-out of the connectors. So I don't know that it didn't change. Yes, if I really wanted to I could find the connectors in the wiring diagrams and get the pin-outs there. But I only have the wiring diagrams for '85 and '86, not '92. So, I hope to see what happens tomorrow when we get back. If it works with the original module/amplifier back in, I'll assume there's something different about the Taurus one and move on.

Congrat's, Cory!!!!! :nabble_anim_claps::nabble_anim_claps::nabble_anim_claps::nabble_anim_claps::nabble_anim_claps::nabble_anim_claps::nabble_anim_claps::nabble_anim_claps::nabble_anim_claps::nabble_anim_claps::nabble_anim_claps::nabble_anim_claps::nabble_anim_claps::nabble_anim_claps::nabble_anim_claps::nabble_anim_claps::nabble_anim_claps::nabble_anim_claps::nabble_anim_claps::nabble_anim_claps::nabble_anim_claps::nabble_anim_claps::nabble_anim_claps::nabble_anim_claps::nabble_anim_claps::nabble_anim_claps::nabble_anim_claps::nabble_anim_claps::nabble_anim_claps::nabble_anim_claps::nabble_anim_claps::nabble_anim_claps::nabble_anim_claps::nabble_anim_claps::nabble_anim_claps::nabble_anim_claps::nabble_anim_claps::nabble_anim_claps::nabble_anim_claps::nabble_anim_claps::nabble_anim_claps::nabble_anim_claps::nabble_anim_claps::nabble_anim_claps::nabble_anim_claps::nabble_anim_claps::nabble_anim_claps::nabble_anim_claps::nabble_anim_claps::nabble_anim_claps::nabble_anim_claps::nabble_anim_claps::nabble_anim_claps::nabble_anim_claps::nabble_anim_claps::nabble_anim_claps::nabble_anim_claps::nabble_anim_claps::nabble_anim_claps::nabble_anim_claps::nabble_anim_claps::nabble_anim_claps::nabble_anim_claps::nabble_anim_claps::nabble_anim_claps::nabble_anim_claps::nabble_anim_claps::nabble_anim_claps::nabble_anim_claps::nabble_anim_claps::nabble_anim_claps::nabble_anim_claps::nabble_anim_claps::nabble_anim_claps::nabble_anim_claps::nabble_anim_claps::nabble_anim_claps::nabble_anim_claps::nabble_anim_claps::nabble_anim_claps::nabble_anim_claps::nabble_anim_claps::nabble_anim_claps::nabble_anim_claps::nabble_anim_claps::nabble_anim_claps::nabble_anim_claps::nabble_anim_claps::nabble_anim_claps::nabble_anim_claps::nabble_anim_claps::nabble_anim_claps::nabble_anim_claps::nabble_anim_claps::nabble_anim_claps::nabble_anim_claps::nabble_anim_claps::nabble_anim_claps::nabble_anim_claps::nabble_anim_claps::nabble_anim_claps::nabble_anim_claps::nabble_anim_claps::nabble_anim_claps::nabble_anim_claps::nabble_anim_claps::nabble_anim_claps::nabble_anim_claps::nabble_anim_claps::nabble_anim_claps::nabble_anim_claps::nabble_anim_claps::nabble_anim_claps::nabble_anim_claps::nabble_anim_claps::nabble_anim_claps::nabble_anim_claps::nabble_anim_claps::nabble_anim_claps::nabble_anim_claps::nabble_anim_claps::nabble_anim_claps::nabble_anim_claps::nabble_anim_claps::nabble_anim_claps::nabble_anim_claps::nabble_anim_claps::nabble_anim_claps:

Welcome. Google that part number, but try it both as EzeroTZ and EohTz. Some people don't know it should be zero.

Well, I guess I'll be happy with "almost 12". (I am pretty sure it'll get to a full 12, if not more, when I go EFI this winter.)

Yes, I do know. But it took some sleuthing to prove it. The proof is here. On Page 87 you'll see that Pin 2 of C208A, which is the connector for the gauge cluster, is Circuit 57 and that it is grounded at G701. And on Page 88 you'll see that G701 is "behind instrument panel near right hand side of radio".

Yup, .6A is huge. I'm guessing that you may have blown diodes in the rectifier bridge in the alternator. Or maybe a bad regulator. So I'd pull the charge cable off the alternator and test for parasitic draws again. I'll bet it goes to .01A or so - assuming you have the door closed and the underhood light turned off. Yes?

If all three are doing it the common denominator is the ICVR. I'd order the adjustable voltage regulator and make those puppies reliable. And yes, you can test by touching the sender wire to ground. But if the ICVR is working at all it'll usually peg the gauge even if it is wonky.

I used to think a manual would help rein in the thirst of the 460. Nope. Got it up to 11.6 when I met you last week. Took it easy and didn't even use the speed control - and it was working at the time.

Be VERY careful with it. Shaun/Salans7 bought one several years ago that had no cracks. Took it home, put it on a shelf, and it cracked. After all these years they are very brittle and it doesn't take much to crack them.

Says the man with essentially the same combo.

Progress! As for the clutch rod bellows, you can now find the part number on the page at Documentation/Driveline/Clutches & Linkage. Then the Clutch Linkage tab, then the Part Numbers tab. However, to make it easy the number is E0TZ 7A533-A. (The numbers weren't there but they are now.)

I can't imagine that the oil is the issue. I'm thinking the filter may have collapsed internally. But that is just a guess.

Fram filters are called "the orange can of death" for a reason. I use Motorcraft filters. I'm not saying that is your problem, but it might make a difference. So I'd change it and see if there's a change.

Josh - I don't think that the length of the line nor the turns will have any effect on the reading. It would if there was flow, but there is no flow, just pressure. But 5 psi at idle is pretty low. Is that the first time you've driven it that long in one go? Also, what oil filter did you put on? Maybe the filter is plugged? Or the wrong one? (Having said that, if the pressure goes back up when the engine is cold then I don't think it is the filter.)

Well, Bill may be right again. Still. As usual. Perhaps the Bosch relay would work? I put the relays in parallel and both work properly, but independently. But the speed control doesn't. So, I can only assume that the Taurus module doesn't work in our trucks, or at least in my truck. I say that because everything should be back to just like it was before the relay changes with the exception of the module. So I swapped the original module back in, but the storm got here before I had a chance to test it. Maybe tomorrow afternoon after we get back from our trip to Grove to decorate graves. Anyway, here's the jumper and relay setup, but with the Taurus module still in. After the pic was taken I wrapped the connector and the spade terminals with electrical tape to ensure it can't short to something nor unplug.

You just jumped the gun. Our "joining process" is broken at the moment and you actually get access before you are supposed to. So many people miss the email and don't see the instructions to read the guidelines, etc. But all is well.

Ok, you have posted in the NMSH folder, so you've at least had a chance to see the guidelines. On the fuel sender, go to Documentation/Fuel Systems/Fuel System Part Numbers/Fuel Senders & Pumps in the menu. There you'll be able to determine the part number for the right sender for your truck. But, you may have a hard time finding the sender by part number. If so, go to the Rock Auto site, which has one of the best catalogs around, and you can get the sending unit part number from several vendors. You don't have to buy from RA, but at least their catalog is a big help.

Jeremy - Again, welcome to the forum! We have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu), so would you like to be on it? As for the truck, it sure looks straight. And clean. I like it.

Jeremy - Welcome to the Bullnose Forum! Glad you joined. However, you probably missed the email you were sent that asked you to go to the New Members Start Here folder, read the guidelines, and post an intro there. The reason being that we hold everyone to those guidelines so wanted to ensure you have a chance to read them. So, can you assure me that you have?

If buying a new master I’d urge considering the later one with the aluminum body and plastic reservoir. No leaks and it can be a bolt-on.

Looking good! Are you going to paint it, powder coat it, or have it chromed?