Gary Lewis

Yes, it looks great!

Assuming your system is wired the way the '86 EVTM shows, below, then the switch is the only thing in common with the front and rear sending units. So it could be the switch. But it could also be the wiring. If it was me I'd pull the Y/LB wire off of the switch and test it end-to-end. One way would be to ground one end and see if the other shows a direct ground. If it is broken somewhere then a new switch won't fix it.

Well, got a few things done on/for Big Blue over the last few days, although most of the time has been spent on forum and website issues. (We are progressing on getting the forum on the AWS servers, but it is taking a LOT of time.) One thing is that I got a notification today from FedEx that there was a change in the delivery date on the console. I held my breath and opened the email - it is to be delivered tomorrow! Another is that I strapped the Hilift jack to the spare tire since I don't have the bumper to put it on - yet: Then I printed out the fuse positions chart, laminated that, and glued it to the fuse box cover. That's because several of the fuses I'm using aren't shown on the cover. And I printed out the fuse allocation and ratings table that shows what each fuse does and what size it should be. That, plus other documentation is now in a little 3-ring binder that goes under the driver's seat. But, I still have to update the PDB wiring diagram. And I need to complete the list I've started that tells what parts have been used so people can maintain it in the future.

Well done, Jochen! Let's get those pics on here:

Let's see, w/o all the offroad traffic they'd dry up and blow away?

This post is to wrap up this discussion. Not "close it down", but give you the answer to which I've come. After thinking about this at length I believe we should keep the previous format of placing each section of the factory service manual on the page relevant to that topic. For instance, the FSM section on the 300 six will continue to be on the page at Documentation/Engines/300 Six along with everything else we know about that engine including illustrations, part numbers, specifications, information about the carb spacer, and thoughts on compression ratios. These topic-specific pages will provide users an all-in-one location for each topic so they won't have to go searching for information. Not only will that be helpful to the user, it will mean a lot less work for me as I won't need to create the index with hot links to all of the sections. And I won't need to move a whole bunch of things around to accommodate a new format. So thanks for your help in thinking this through. I think we've come to the best solution.

I don't know about AZ, but it appears in CO that it is up to the city/town to decide. Telluride has said no OHV's. Silverton has gone part way and said it is ok to drive them on a few streets. And Lake City says it is ok to drive them anywhere. And that decision is probably at least partially determined by the visitors they want to have. Telluride seems to be wanting to be an upscale tourist town, especially in ski season. Silverton is more a wild mining town and has lots of 'wheelers that come for several days and spend money. Lake City is at the end of the Alpine Loop and is thrilled just to have anyone come.

I might respond to him with "No, but I would knock off the rough edges." Isn't that a parent's job?

The crewcab pickup has a wheelbase of 168.4". The regular chassis cab had a 133", 136.8", and 160.8" wheelbase options. And the Supercab had a 155" wheelbase. So, you are having the Amish build your garage? (I realize that there are lots of "English", using the Amish term for non-Amish people, living in Lancaster.) I hear they do excellent work.

Talked with my brother yesterday after sending him the information regarding where OHV's can't go. He hadn't been aware of that and is now questioning whether it is worth it to take his RZR. I told him taking it would be fine, but that we might want to shift our hotel to Silverton if he does take the RZR as then we could spend at least two days checking out the stuff east of 550 quite easily. In fact, depending on where we stay we might be able to leave the trailer there and drive the RZR up from Silverton as some of the streets are open to OHV's. Anyway, he's thinking about it so we don't have that bit nailed down yet.

Glad healing is going fairly well, and hope the next round finishes it. And I understand not grinding the welds. I wouldn't either if I had some that pretty.

I know why you posted the pic of the welds before grinding. Those are great! Excellent looking welds. And yes, I can picture flat steel. But seeing the welds themselves is much better. Well done! (I hope you heal up quickly.)

Actually, I think the spacers are so you won't bend the valve covers when you tighten the bolts down. If your cover is straight/flat then they ensure there's even spacing all the way 'round.

Wow! That's a LOT of work! Well done, and it is looking good. I have Bilsteins on Big Blue, and in my research I was told that they are some of the best. I can't say that they are the bees knees, but they work just fine.

The compressor is usually on the driver's side, at least on the V8's. Is that what you mean?

Yep, it is wonderful! We leave Monday on the GOAT, so if it really comes in on Sunday it'll get to go with us.

Trust me, Randy. I understand. We drove to Charleston, SC and then Palm Beach Gardens, FL a couple of months ago and I toyed with the idea of taking Big Blue. Luckily he wasn't ready 'cause on the first day when we got into serious traffic in Atlanta I was happy to be driving the little GLK. That thing handles like a sports car and has all kinds of zip. Big Blue would have been a pain - to drive as well as to put gas in.

Got this in from FedEx today:

Glad you found it.

It isn't really that hard. And if you find a working system on a Bullnose truck you can pull the whole system w/o opening any of the connections. You'll have to tilt the radiator back to get the condenser out. And you'll have to pull the HVAC plenum from under the hood. But it is easy to do.

Excellent! We will have some sort of dinner the night before, and that is open to all forum members. Please let us know if you can attend. And feel free to bring your wife and/or kids.

Good question! Skiatook, OK. About 20 miles north of Tulsa.

Rowland - As said in the New Members Start Here post, you may want to use this thread to troubleshoot your truck. But, if so you will probably want to edit your opening post and change the title. And while I'm thinking about your truck, I'll bet the problem is to do with broken vacuum lines, bad or modified wiring, etc. So I think we can help you get it going. However, it'll help if we know what we are dealing with, and a picture of the distributor would help. (See Bullnose Forum/Forum FAQ's for how to post pics.) That's because it is possible that your truck has a DS-II ignition if it was sold new in Canada. But if it was sold new in the US it probably has the TFI ignition with a computer controlling it. And we can tell that by looking at a picture of the distributor.

Little late to reply, y'all. Sorry. David - I look forward to meeting you! Ratdude - I look forward to meeting you as well. However, there's a major difference between last year's virtual show and this year's in-person show. The in-person shows are for "Ford trucks", so your Ranger will fit in if that's what you want to bring. (But a Bullnose will be even better.) Some year if the Bullnose attendance gets to be a major part of the show we might re-name it. But for now given the limited numbers we'll just make it for Ford trucks of all ages and ilks.

Yes, welcome! Glad you joined. First, would you like to be on our map? You can see it at Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu above. Second, if you'll create a signature, as explained in Bullnose Forum/Forum FAQ's in the menu, it will help us help you - assuming it gives some info on your truck. As for the calibration code, I doubt that will be needed. With what you've found, and other things you may not have found yet, I suspect you can get it running well with the existing carb. However, it is best to do troubleshooting in a thread either in the main section or in Projects 'cause more people will see it there. You started a thread in Projects, do you want to use it? You can change the title of it by editing the first post.