Gary Lewis

Well, it has been an interesting, and somewhat frustrating, day. John will remember asking why the blue LED on the dash was blinking, and I explained that as I exited the truck the other day I apparently pushed the Lock button on the key fob. But then I decided to pop the hood, and as soon as I did the alarm sounded. And the LED has been blinking two flashes even when not armed to tell me the system had been compromised. So today I decided I'd fix that. And nothing I did with the key fob helped. So I pulled out the owner's manual - and read it several times. Nada. Then I pulled out the installation manual and read it several times. Nada. Hmmm, maybe I have a switch that is hung up and not opening or closing as it should. So I started testing, and got strange results. Sometimes the alarm would sound if I opened a door or the toolbox lids after setting the alarm. And sometimes it wouldn't. So I called Code Alarm. Turns out there are undocumented features: Reset: Just turn the key on and then off and it resets the flashing LED Timer: There's a 5-second timer that starts when you push the button and all the switches are closed. If you open a door w/in that time the alarm doesn't sound. And the timer doesn't start again until you close that door. So, there was no problem - other than the manufacturer didn't tell me everything in the manuals, plural.

Clay - So sorry you have to sell. But for a dream job it might well be worth it. (We moved from Ponca City, OK to London and it completely changed ALL of our hobbies.) Good luck!

Oh yes, I forgot to say that to post a pic from one of the documentation pages you can do it one of two ways: Screenshot: This will get you the whole of the page and you can do it via the Windows Print Screen function or the Snipping tool. Save the file and then insert and upload it. Piece-by piece: Most documentation pages are made up of snips of the relevant info from the Master Parts Catalog. And since that info isn't always contiguous I take several snips to just get the Bullnose stuff and not the little Ranger, Bronco II, or Aerostar. So if you want one or more of those, right-click the pic, copy the address, and paste that into the "Or copy an image from the Internet:" line in the Insert Image popup. But make sure you delete the "http://" that is already there as your picture's url already has that.

I don't understand all of the data. But, I will say that I think you'll have trouble installing a aft-axle fuel filler plastic housing in a bed that doesn't have that bulge. Here's what it looks like on Big Blue, and that bulge is needed to get that plastic housing in there.

Ok Shaun, I got the pics up. Please check it out: Documentation/Driveline/Wheels.

No, there weren't different beds for with or without the rear tank. From our page at Documentation/Exterior/BEDS, TAILGATES, & COMPONENTS:

Yes, I checked the ground. It isn't via a relay, but its voltage stays really close to zero volts, so it seems to be working well.

Actually, I think it sends the email, it just doesn't tell you or look like it did. You should have 3 emails from me. The first one I didn't say to send a copy to me, but on the 2nd and 3rd ones I did, and I got those two. How many did you get?

Well, that's one of the hardest things to photograph I've ever tried. There aren't any precise breaks to capture as everything is a curve. In any event, I put a piece of angle across the bed with a blue paper towel protecting the bed, and it looks like the break starts at 12 5/16" down, and it is complete by 12 9/16", as sorta shown below. And, as it turns out there is a bump in the bed to accomodate the filler hose, as shown below. It measures roughly 11" long by 5 1/2" high and it sticks out ~2 1/2".

Since the A/C system in BB is from Huck, the '90 half truck, it is a slightly different motor than the Bullnose motor. But in reality they look pretty much the same. The squirrel cage is not chipped, and I lubed the bearings while I had the motor out. So I'm pretty sure it is doing all it was designed to do. But out of curiosity I just called around to five different motor/generator rewinding places in the Tulsa area. And none of them think it is something they could do - at least not for a reasonable price as one place said it would be in the $400 - 500 range to do it. So I'll be living with it.

That is C-O-O-L, Gary! Morning, David! Yes, it is C-O-O-L! And with the heater shutoff valve and insulation on the plenum it should get downright chilly in the cab. But I go from Big Blue to our modern vehicles and marvel at the air flow they have. BB’s pales in comparison. So I wonder about having a blower motor rewound to spin faster. Obviously it would pull more current, but I already have the relay supplying power so should be fine.

Angelo - Good luck with that! Unfortunately I don't believe I have any of those parts.

I always wear good hiking boots when I'm 'wheeling. The stiffer soles are nicer on your feet when you are walking on very uneven surfaces, and some better ankle support than heavy duty shoes is a good idea too. But this close to the trip, take footwear that you already have broken in. Not that you'll necessarily be doing a lot of hiking, but as the Boy Scouts say (as well as Scar from Disney's "The Lion King"), Be Prepared. A pair of leather gloves can be nice if you have to move rocks or handle a winch line (I keep a pair with my recovery gear). Bring lunch and plenty of drinking water. There aren't any fast food places up on those trails! Bringing some extra food and blankets in case you need to spend the night isn't a terrible idea, but odds are VERY slim it'd be needed. Sunburn happens a lot faster and a lot worse with 12,000 feet of filtering air below you. Sunscreen is good, but a boonie hat, long sleeves and long pants might be better. Air temperature matters surprisingly little in the mountains. The air just doesn't have enough heat capacity to make much difference. On a sunny 50 degree day you might be sweating in shorts and a T-shirt while standing in snow that's not melting. Wind will make some difference, clouds and rain will make a lot of difference. So wearing a fairly thin base layer with a sweatshirt and a rain shell available works pretty well. A lightweight fleece jacket is even better than a sweatshirt because it doesn't soak up water. And rain reminds me, you are on top of a big lightning rod any time you're on a mountain, so keep that in mind if a thunder storm comes up. And don't go down Black Bear if any significant rain might be encountered. I haven't run into that, but I think I sent you a link once of a couple Jeeps that had boulders bouncing past them and eventually got trapped by a landslide. Well, lots of good info in those posts. Thanks, guys. Bob: We drove around Telluride with our friends last October and it is a cute town. But we didn't stay long after lunch 'cause we had to turn the Jeep in by 2:00 - and we just made it. Imogene pass will probably take less time that Last Dollar Road, especially since we got out many times on LDR to take pics - the aspen were gorgeous! So, we should have time to look around. And we will get a prompt start on Day 2. Thanks for the warning. Yes, we are coming from Engineer Mountain Road up Poughkeepsie Gulch. I think it will be interesting to at least see The Wall, if not try it. And with the option of winching up it, I don't really see too much problem. (Famous last words.) As for Black Bear, we'll be cautious. I really doubt we do it, and could easily go back and tackle The Wall again if we wanted. But yes, I've seen the video of the water and boulders, as well as the one with the cartwheeling Jeep, so I'm sure we will be cautious. Anyway, it sounds like we have a decent plan. I also sent it to my brother this afternoon and we are going to talk tomorrow about it, but he's already approved it. And we will talk about clothing, footwear, food, water, etc. We'll be prepared. Chris - We will get to Ouray on the 7th and run the trails on the 8th through the 11th. And yes, we will have drinking water, warm clothes, etc. We do have the first aid kit, altitude sickness meds, and a way to start a fire, but I hadn't thought about a hiking stick. That might come in really handy. And I think I'll wear my boots. Bob - Yep, I guess I'll wear my shop boots. Best clean them up a bit. And I have lots of gloves in, for sure. As for clothes, I plan to wear jeans and a long-sleeved shirt. And in the bed in a tote I'll have a jacket, fleece, rain coat, etc. We'll have sunscreen, sun glasses, and lip balm. Plus a ball cap and my floppy hat. And probably had better take some Gold Bond or other moisturizing lotion. Ok, it sounds like a plan! Thanks, guys!

Yeah, the brochures frequently have things that weren't really offered. But Bill is right, as shown below from the 1973-79 MPC. Oddly enough, that same wheel, or at least that same part number, wasn't offered after that. Anyway, I'll try to remember to put these pics, and the MPC listing, up in the documentation tomorrow. Thanks!

Yes, I can measure that - tomorrow. And check for a bulge, but I'm pretty sure there isn't one.

Congrat's! So, how did it run?

Cool, Bill! That's going to help a lot of people. When you get done we will probably want to put it on the page at Documentation/Electrical/Ignition. It'll take some reorganization but I think we can do that.

Sounds like a plan, Stan. Good luck!

And there, friends, is the beauty of this forum. We have a guy in New Zealand helping a guy in England.

I agree that the 2nd support is the way to go. However as said you may need to mod it if you want to go with an '85 or later radiator.

Oh yes, what is the recommended footwear? I'm thinking boots, or at least heavy duty shoes? Obviously we'll take rain gear and jackets. But is there anything else recommended?

Ok, let me try this as a potential complete package. Comments, PLEASE! Day 1: Ophir Pass to Telluride and then Imogene Pass back to Ouray. It is 56 miles, but is pretty easy for the first half as Ophir isn't challenging. However, Imogene appears to have some sections that will cause us to learn and get accustomed to the truck and how it handles the trails. Day 2: Engineer Mountain Road, Mineral Point, Engineer Pass, Animas Cutoff, California Gulch, sneak peek @ The Wall, and Corkscrew back to 550. At 46 miles it might be a full day? Day 3: Poughkeepsie Gulch, The Wall, then Corkscrew back to 550. At only 25 miles it might be a short day, but there are plenty of side trails available. And we might be at The Wall for a while. Day 4: Black Bear to Telluride and then Imogene back to Ouray. Certainly not going to push for going on Black Bear at all, much less down the switchbacks, but my understanding is that we can turn around before committing to them, right? But that there is a significant hike to see them, and of course that's at 10,000 feet. But if we get there and don't want to do it we can backtrack and go into Silverton for a change.

Not sure I understand. Didn't see anything stupid heretofore. David - Did you mean Larry/ratdude747?

I am bringing some left over vinyl seat material bought from SMS for my 1986. It is red and the material used in the original inserts. There is likely enough to repair 1 or 2 inserts [1 lower and 1 upper?]. You may have it for free. A few more items: * EEC-IV FBC-ISC3 8K MROM [computer] - E5DF-12A650-H2A This was pulled from a 1985 F150 [61K miles; a former city utility dept. vehicle] with auto. transmission and 4.9L engine. * Black plastic valve cover mounted solenoid(s) cover from a 1985 F150 [see above] - E4TF-12B535-AA * Black exterior mirror: E4TZ-17682-D = D/S - in original box w/o screws or gasket. * Black exterior mirror: E5TZ-17682-B = D/S - in original box w/o screws or gasket. It has a vertical dent on the back. * (2) anti rattle springs for door window crank. * (4) protective plastic spacers which are between the window crank and the door panel. - [spoken for; Gary Lewis] * Instrument cluster bezel w/o AC - E0TB-10045C90-A. Hey David! I'd like the (4) protective plastic spacers which are between the window crank and the door panel. Please name your price.

Dad would have said "Slicker than snot on a glass door knob." But, no way am I letting the grandtwins ride that winch. It says not to use it for humans, and I can see why because as the cable unrolls off the drum it lurches. And the cable itself has some kinks in it, which cause other lurches when they go through the pulley. But I might let them run it.