Gary Lewis

I've been fortunate to be able to repair all the harnii I've run across. But I have scrap ones from which I pull the right wire colors and solder pieces in and then use adhesive-lined heat shrink. So far I've not found an aftermarket harness that I think is worth it. Not saying there isn't one, but I've not seen it.

Thanks, Dane. That's good news.

John - Thanks. That's using the embedded one? Meaning you see a bullnose in the browser tab? (You'll see an "N" if you are going directly in.)

I should have explained that I painted several things in the shop with POR-15 over 10 years ago, and while they aren't in direct sun there is outside light coming in and they are still as black and hard as ever. However, my engine hoist is now sitting outside and getting some direct sun for the last several months and it is starting to get chalky. Still black, but....

Agree on the POR-15. However, it is not UV resistant, so it needs a topcoat. I'm not sure how important that is under a carpet, or on the bottom side of the truck, but I still topcoat it wherever I put it. I used it on some sheet metal panels that form the roof of our outdoor fireplace. I leaned the panels against a table in my shop, without putting anything down on the concrete. I painted the panels and let them dry. However, because they were on a slant, some excess POR-15 ran down them and accumulated where it sat on the concrete. Not much just a few drops. No problem, I'm sure that will peel right off when I lift the panels... nope. Took a layer of concrete up with it when I picked them up. That's how sticky the stuff is. Oh, and wear gloves, unless you want black paint spots on your hands for weeks to come. Yes, a topcoat is needed if it is going to see UV. But I didn’t topcoat the stuff on the floor, nor what dripped though. Haven’t seen the stuff on the floor again as it is covered with sound deadening and carpet, but the stuff under the truck is still black, and UV will turn it whiteish. And if you are topcoating, I recommend using any exterior grade spray paint and spray it on while the POR is still tacky. I’m done with brushing the POR-specific topcoat on as it always leave brushstrokes.

Hey folks, Pedro has gotten https working on the AWS servers so we are extremely close to being able to migrate to them. However, I am having a log-in problem and would like some of you to test and see if you have the same problem. The problem is that if I use Chrome and go directly into the forum on the AWS servers I can log in successfully. But if I click on the link in the menu to New Bullnose Test Forum, which goes to the forum embedded on the website, I'm not logged in and cannot log in. But if I use Firefox I can log in. So could some of you do some testing? You can post or do whatever you want on the New Bullnose Test Forum as it'll get replaced with this forum when we migrate. So you can see if email notifications work, or whatever. THANKS!

Yes, that rust is no problem at all. I'd use POR-15 to seal it. That stuff will seal rust to the point it won't rust more. And getting it off is almost impossible. (I've been doing that on some things on Big Blue, and it is a major pain!) Plus, the stuff is thick enough that it will seal small pin holes, although you might want to put a piece of cardboard under the truck when you paint as any drips on the concrete are not coming off. And the story about the truck and engine is cool. No wonder it runs so well. You'll have a great truck for what you are going to do. Plus the topper/camper looks like it'll be great for weekends.

Yes, that is cool! And that's the kind of thing my brother and I might have done - decades ago. And we'd still be laughing about the donkeys!

Well done! That may be a huge help for someone in the future!

You are now on the map. And one of the uses thereof is to be able to email the other person. Click on the person's pin/flag and then click on the email link. However, at the moment there's a glitch in the forum's email system and it doesn't always look like the email was sent, although it almost always is. So I click the "Send a copy of this message to me" box so I know it has gone. So you can connect with Darin easily. And if you meet him tell him hello for me. He and his wife, Anita, visited us a couple of years ago. 460? I hope your petrol doesn't cost what I think it does. Those things are thirsty - I know from experience. But, they do pack a punch.

Mark - Thanks! That one looks really good as well. And it works well for you? That's what I was looking for.

You are now on the map. And glad the site is helping. Makes all the work worth it. As for a thread about your truck, it is your choice but here isn't "right". I do most of mine in the main section, but others like theirs in Projects. So that's up to you. But we do like to see pics and follow along on the journey.

Beautiful!!!

Yes, I see the two different C6 transmissions on this page. Part #: A117501 does Tag ID: PGD-DL13, PGD-DL15, PGD-EY, PGD-EY3, PGD-FK, PGD-FT. And Part #: A117039 does Tag ID: PGD-DP, PGD-DP1, PGD-DP3, PGD-DP13, PGD-DP14, PGD-DS, PGD-DW, PGD-DW10, PGD-DW11, PGD-EP, PGD-EP1, PGD-ES, PGD-EW, PGD-FA. If you look on our page at Documentation/Driveline/Transmissions/Automatic Transmissions/Transmission Applications and then the Applications tab you can scroll down to 1984 and see the possible tag ID's. I've included part of that below. And from that I see PGD-DK13; PGD-DL14; PGD-DW11; PGD-EV; & PGD-EW. And from that list it looks to me like the only matches are PGD-DW11 & PGD-EW, and both of those are with Part #: A117039. That really doesn't give a whole lot of warm fuzzy feelings, but if I were buying one of those two I'd go with that one. Hopefully the rebuilder will be able to answer your question more definitively.

Thanks, Bruce. Didn't realize that Etrailer is in MO. Cool. And I think either one of those would work. They aren't quite 20" wide, but close enough given the set back/out of the step from the vertical arm. I think they'd clear the hub.

Converter = inverter? Meaning 12v dc to 120v ac? That should do it! On the resistor pack, there is a thermal limiter in the line and when it blows it appears like the resistors are bad. The limiter looks a bit like a diode, so check your resistors ahead of it.

Hello, Gary! Welcome. Glad you joined. Nice truck. What engine is that? I'm thinking it is a Cleveland? But the power steering bracket looks like what we'd have for a Windsor. And the alternator has no external fan, so is a 3G? Nice seat. Is that the original style upholstery? Would you like to be on our map? You can see it at Bullnose Forum/Member's Map. Looks like the closest member is Darin in Sydney.

Interesting. In fact, bizarre! Your part has ID# E1TA 5A041-BB, which cross ref's to PN E1TZ 5A041-A. But that part number does not appear in the master parts catalog. As we've discussed, the MPC shows the trucks should have come out with E0TZ 5A041-A, and if you wanted to replace them later they'd sell you F2TZ 5A041-A, which came out in '92. But no where is listed E1TZ. I think the line that shows 81/85 U150 * E0TZ 5A041-A r/b F2TZ 5A041-A should actually be 81/85 U150 * E1TZ 5A041-A r/b F2TZ 5A041-A. That's the only thing I can think of that makes sense. Saying it another way, I wonder if 1981 and later Broncos came with the E1 mount and all the other trucks came with the E0 mount. Does that make sense? Anyone have info otherwise?

Welcome, Chad & Alisa! Glad you joined. Nice truck. And the 400 can be a really strong engine. Should be a workhorse. What part of CO? We have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu), and could put you on it if we had a city or zip.

Bill - The EFI installation is one of the reasons I want the step. Dane - That's an excellent question. This KAYCENTOP Tire Step from Amazon isn't big enough. The 17" measurement between the uprights, which is also the dimension at the step, would allow the step to hit the hub. So I need to find one that measures at least 20" there, and preferably more. The 20" measurement would allow it to just clear the hub. So more searching is needed...

Thanks, Bill. But I'm going to hope for one of these steps. Several reasons, including that I can take it with me on trips. I was able to work on the carb by standing on the bumper, but one of the steps would have been very helpful.

I don't see a weight rating on that one either. But most of them are rated for 300 lbs. As for the stool, as mentioned in the WHYDTYTT discussion I have one of the aluminum steps that does a good job getting me to the right height. However, if I lean too far it'll scoot out from under me and I do a belly flop on the fender. I've resorted to using a ratchet strap to hold the stool to the tire when I'm reaching way out, but thought the tire step would be better.

We had a short conversation about tire steps back in August in WHYDTYTT where SCBill recommended this tire step from AutoZone. But Christmas is approaching and I'm thinking of placing one of them on my Santa's list and thought I'd ask what ones y'all have and how you like them? A simple search on Amazon turned up dozens of them from $45 to $242, so it is apparently not as easy of a question to answer as I thought and your input is requested. (NB: I'll move this to the Garage/Shop & Tools section when we get several answers, but wanted it here to get some quick attention.)

Inquiring minds want to know!

So your weather varies from hour to hour? In Okiehoma we say if you don't like the weather wait 15 minutes! On the heater, I think what you proposed will work - if your resistor pack is good. The resistors ground the motor, so if they aren't good it still won't run. But High has full ground, so that should work regardless.