Gary Lewis

Yes, the front is poised to come through here in a couple of hours. How are you wiring the center speaker? Does the Classic radio have a center output? I ask because I really like the old-school way of creating a center channel: use the minus lead from the left channel and the positive lead from the right channel, or vice versa, to power the center speaker. What that does is to put sounds that are common to both channels in the center - which is exactly what you want. I'm running that setup in the shop and it works very nicely. And over the years I've run that in many vehicles.

Looking good! But while those seats look cool, almost literally, they don't look comfortable. However, you probably don't expect to drive it very far, either. Man, that head-on shot looks mean!

WHYDTYTT? Drove it. Almost 200 miles. Just needed to get away, so we decided to go to Tahlequah, which is where we met in college. On the way back someone in a flatbed bowtie pulled out from a side street in Hulbert and drove 25 in a 45 and then eventually 55 in a 65. By the time the first passing zone came I was frustrated, so I slipped BB into 4th and took off - as did he. No contest, but the speedo was about to about to go out of sight. Anyway, we made it to the next town quite handily, and parked here to go to the Red Rooster. There's at least one person on here who knows where that is, although he wasn't available today. And the lady running the Red Rooster is to tell him hello for me.

I don’t think it is worth it.

Yes, you want to connect before C321. But I would cut the existing wire at some point where you have slack. Strip both ends of it as well as your wire, twist your wire onto one end of the cut wire, and slip adhesive-lined shrink tubing over that. Solder everything together, pull the tubing down, and heat it up. The other wire goes to the R/LB wire that goes to both the starter relay and the ignition module. So you can pick it up just ahead of C321 as well, and connect the same way.

It is for cooling. So it does need some air flow. But on Big Blue things would hit the steering linkage before hitting that.

That's the one! When we lived in the UK I test-drove a couple of those thinking I might buy one for driving to/from the train station. But, since it was only a bit over a mile to the station I didn't. But I still have a soft spot in my heart for them. A few years ago I was sitting in traffic with the windows down and heard a familiar sound, sorta like a lawnmower approaching. Sure enough, a 2CV drove past. But those things are few, and far between over here.

Good to know, Scott. Thanks!

You can leave it in the unlocked position, right Scott?

Right. But you are onto the problem. In the schematic below you can see the Bk/LG D wire that says "To Tachometer" and "8 Cyl Only". That is the ground wire to the tach, and the ground originate at the distributor. So if the yoyos that put a GM dizzy in a Ford didn't ground that wire you won't be in 8 cylinder mode on the tach. Just find that wire and ground it.

LOL! My wife says reading minds is easy, changing them is hard. But, if you don't change your mind frequently it gets dirty. Anyway, I think your wiring diagram will work. In Start power will connect through the NC contacts on the oil pressure switch, and when the pressure comes up it'll connect through the NO contacts. As for the question about C321, I think you want to connect the wire going to the inertia switch to the white/light blue wire at C321, as shown below. That will give you power in Run.

Been doing a lot of reading of reviews and watching of videos. One thing I noticed is that the display has the ability to be scrolled up or down by running your finger up or down on it. And that got me to thinking about how they do that. The first thought was that the cameras are motorized, but there's only 3 wires to them - power, ground, and video out. So there's no way to control them. But then I realized that the cameras are set up for an aspect ratio of 16:9. But the mirror is basically 16:4. So there's plenty of room to scroll up or down electronically. Which brings me back to - I can't believe that you can't successfully use a rear camera in the front. And that's in spite of the front camera having a 170 degree view and the rear having only a 150 degree view. We shall see.

I had a narrowband AFR LED arrangement in that window on Dad's truck for a while. But it was really worthless. Narrowband just tells you if you are above or below 14.7:1, not how far. So it just flashed. Anyway, you are doing it right! But you will change the wiring for the voltmeter?

Wait! That's the same number as the one above. I've gone 'round the bend.

That's a different one, David. It goes on the voltage regulator.

Where's the picture I saw in the email? I like the deux chevaux in the background. But your truck is beautiful!

No, this goes ON the coil. And it is a capacitor.

To each his own. I just want to be able to see what I'm about to back into or hit going forward. And my old school menu isn't doing that for me.

True, we haven't lost the forum. But we've been trying to get this going for 1 1/2 years, and every time we get close to the goal we get another penalty. As for the ride in Big Blue, that might be just the thing! Perhaps tomorrow as I've committed to a few other things right now.

They weren't used on the 4.9L six cylinder trucks. And since those engines used the same ignition, I have always assumed that Ford though those who bought that engine either wouldn't buy a radio or wouldn't mind a little static in it.

Can't wait till your review on Tuesday! Don't hold your breath. I need to go clean the shop in order to have room to test the mirror and cameras, and I HATE cleaning. But there is the carrot dangling in front of me that if I get it done I can play, so...

Ships, night. I was testing by redirecting everything to the embedded forum. That killed your ability to go straight in, and also seems to prevent you from doing anything if you get in, like via Firefox.

Time for an update. I think I found another problem. Thinking that the domain name might be part of the problem I changed the domain name on the test forum to "forum.bullnoseenthusiasts.com". And what that means is that the straight-in access to the forum on the AWS servers won't work, but the embedded version will. HOWEVER, not only can I not log in via anything but Firefox, I can't read any threads. They say it is darkest before the dawn.

I think I'm going to have a busy weekend. :) A bunch of things are scheduled to arrive over the next few days. Looking forward to feedback on your camera system. I went a different route. I really liked the look of the repro chrome rearview mirror LMC has so I went with that - I'm in some kind of "chrome everywhere" mood. But I'm going to be using this truck mostly with a slide-in camper where backing up is definitely a good place to have a camera. So I went with one of those $99 license plate cameras, the ones that just display on your cell phone. I'm already used to bringing out "extra devices" when we tow our fifth-wheel so I think it'll be fine, I only need it for a few minutes a trip. We'll see how it goes... For $230 inc tax you can have what I'm getting: 12" mirror with full-width display Waterproof rear camera that automatically shows on the mirror when you shift into reverse Front camera that goes on the inside of the windshield GPS antenna that records where the truck goes on the included memory card Continual recording, with the last 30 seconds of the file saved in case of an accident Does your $99 camera do that?

Oh! Ok, thanks for the clarification.