Gary Lewis

Hadn’t thought of that. Thanks!

So, is Gary having a birthday? HAPPY BIRTHDAY!!! Yes and no. Or jein. It isn’t until Saturday, but I’ll take any congratulations I can get. 😎

I've used a large screwdriver to try and get the windings to separate from the front case half. If I twist to the right of the arrow in the pic the distance to the left decreases. And vice versa. And if I twist right at the arrow I can't get it to move. I've saturated the area between the two with PB Blaster, heated, banged, twisted - to no avail. Will keep trying when I get back to it, but I'm open to other suggestions.

Yes, the EEC-V system replaced the DS-II. Both Bill and I are running 1996 California-spec systems as CA is the only one that had EEC-V with MAF & SEFI. All other states got EEC-IV with speed density and bank fire. The beauty of EEC-V is that it is programmable via the OBD-II port. We used Binary Editor to set ours up. In his case he has it controlling the E4OD. In mine I have the ZF5 but I turned off EGR and all other similar systems.

Yes, I have the EEC monitoring the A/C clutch. But I've watched and there is very little change to any of the parameters. Haven't tried listening to the exhaust note though.

On a 460???? I can't tell when Big Blue's compressor comes in save for the sound if the hood is open. I have the 1990+ FS10 compressor vs the FS6 that came on the truck, but that's a bigger compressor so should present more load.

Nope. I've PB Blasted it many, many times. Heated it more than I think prudent. And banged on it time and time again, but it refuses to come apart. The installation of the subwoofer is going slowly due to other things in our lives at the moment, but when the time to install the alternator finally comes I think it'll go back in the way it was. I'll just have to remove it to be able to get to the releases on the connectors.

I'm late to the party, sorry. Must have been at the bank getting our new account or at Janey's therapy. But that truck looks like a major headache. However, is it something you would want to drive, assuming you get everything resolved? You've already said it isn't sought after. So is the view worth the climb?

Good plan, Stan. Tell her we are sorry we didn't make it. I'd have loved to meet you'uns, and witness that move. But I'll wait for the video - when you get back.

Yikes!!!! Lesley did a good job with the camera! (Hmmm, if Janey hadn't had the heart attack last month....) So, everything is ok? Hope you packed extra underwear.

Ok, it looks like we may be covered then with PayPal & Venmo - when I get them set up. And Bill, I think Matt is my 3rd cousin twice removed. At least I've met him. So what does that make you, old man? (I have 5 more days where you are two years older than me.)

I'm not high on PayPal as they started taking money out of even gifts, like to our kids. So they had us move to Venmo, which didn't take anything out last time we used them. But they may now as they are owned by PayPal, as is Braintree.

Guys - I'm trying to figure out the best way to move money for those of you who want to help support the site. Obviously I can take checks, but I'm thinking that many of you would like to use something online to make the transaction. Invision has an ecommerce add on that would allow us to use Stripe, PayPal, 2Checkout, & Braintree. But, there are fees with each of those, and PayPal says theirs is "2.9% + 30¢ per transaction. No set up or or monthly fees for redirecting to the PayPal site, $30 monthly fee for accepting card payments directly." So a $100 contribution would actually net us $96.80, and we'd also have to pay an additional $30/mo just to use the service. And that seems excessive. Instead, I have both PayPal and Venmo and plan to point both of them at the new Bullnose Enthusiasts bank account via a special email address. Does that work for you?

Stein - A couple of things about your chart. First, you can now see what I was talking about with the rapid advance between 1500 and 2000 RPM. And that's a consequence of the light vs heavy spring. The light spring determines the advance in the lower RPM range, and the heavier spring the upper RPM range. But as Bill pointed out, the heavier spring's loops are elongated, and that means that spring doesn't come into play until the higher RPM range - probably 2000 RPM. Second, the vacuum advance isn't tied to RPM. Instead it is tied to vacuum. You originally gave the readings of "1000/12, 1500/16, 2000/42" but instead the 1000 - 2000 should be inches of vacuum and not RPM. In fact, you can easily have the same vacuum value at a wide range of RPM. For instance, you might have 20" of vacuum at idle in neutral, and 20" of vacuum while descending a slight hill at 3000 RPM. The advance probably starts coming in around 8 to 10" of vacuum and may be fully in by 18". Does that make sense?

We have a bank account!!!! It is a sole proprietor business account in my name "doing business as" Bullnose Enthusiasts. There are several things to work out, such as how you'uns do PayPal, Venmo, or whatever to it, but it isn't to send it to me via my email address as that would put the money in the wrong account. So I'll get those details worked out and post it up in another announcement thread as well as in this one. However, one of the ways to take donations is by using Invision's e-commerce services, which are included if we go with their Creator package instead of the current Beginner package. That's $89/mo instead of $55/mo, but includes lots of things, like blogs, galleries, and what looks to be the ability to have web pages. The web pages bit might be something we want to do as I'm told it is much better than Weebly, so I'm investigating it.

Looking GOOD! On the fuel line, be sure to get some that is E85 rated. I doubt they are selling any fuel line anymore that isn't, but I know the original hoses do not like the alcohol in the fuel and get soft and leak. On the Fluid Film, it creeps. I have some places above the rear wheelwells that have body putty in them and the FF found its way through microscopic cracks in the putty. So it doesn't take a lot to get good coverage.

From the Windsor section of the shop manual (Documentation/Engines/Windsor) it 15 - 25 ft-lbs.

I'm not sure what I think about an extended cab flareside. One thing I like about the regular cab flaresides is how short they are. But this one isn't. And it just doesn't look "right" to me.

They hire drunks and have them sleep in vehicle on the side of the road?

Well done! That's the way it should be done.

The MPC says your engine's drain plug should be PN D6TZ 6730-A. But it doesn't say what size that is. However, CJ Pony Parts says that is 1/2" X 20. So you have the right part. Given that, I'd make sure you aren't cross threading it and then put it in. Hopefully it'll go in nicely, but something is wrong with the threads given the look of the stripped drain plug, so it stands to reason that it will require some re-cutting of threads.

There's a document from Crane Cams re how to adjust ignition timing that might help your understanding. It is on the page at Documentation/Electrical/Ignition and the Instructions tab followed by the Crane Cams Instructions tab. But what happens is that with no load on the engine there is high vacuum so you get the most advance possible from the vacuum advance unit. As you open the throttle to climb a hill or accelerate the vacuum goes down so the advance reduces - depending on the vacuum advance. But at the same time the extra throttle is raising the pressure in the cylinders, technically known as brake mean effective pressure or BMEP. The higher the BMEP the faster the air/fuel mix burns and the less ignition advance it can handle until the mix essentially explodes rather than burns, and that causes detonation. But just prior to detonation is pinging, a sort of rattling or clattering in the engine. It is hard to say where that might happen, but climbing a hill that requires a bit more throttle at an RPM where the distributor has given a lot of advance is the likely spot. And your distributor is giving you a lot of advance between 1500 and 2000 RPM, so some place in the middle of that would be my guess as to where it would happen - if it happens. As the Crane instructions say, if you get pinging you should back off the vacuum advance - if it is adjustable. Many of them are adjustable via an Allen wrench inserted through the vacuum fitting. You want to back off enough that you don't have any pinging, but not much more as the advance helps the economy.

I will tell people to hang on to those, most of the time they come up missing. My Bronco still had them when I bought it. The PO really took care of that Bronco! As said, that console is one of the best, of many, upgrades I've done on Big Blue. The cup holders actually work and fit many of the cups we find. It stores lots of stuff. And it is at the right height to put our arms on. Love it. As for what I did today, I radiused the corners on the mounts for the subwoofer, media blasted them, and painted them with one coat of self-etching primer and 3 coats of satin black. So now they'll match the rest of the seat base.

You are making good progress. You'll be ready for your trip, soon. Comparing your new distributor's timing to the old one: So you are getting most of the advance between 1500 & 2000 RPM. That will make a noticeable difference in the throttle response as the added advance is going to give the engine more pep, for sure. But you may have pinging with the vacuum connected, so you should drive is some before taking off. The place where you may have problems is around 2000 RPM with light throttle but heavy load. So take it for a drive and try listening closely as you try climbing hills with a light throttle so the vacuum stays up and gives you the most advance.