Gary Lewis

That's probably the easiest swap to a different engine that you could do. Our page at Documentation/Engines/Engine Swaps has some info on things you need to consider, and I've copied some of that here so you can see what the differences might be to other engines, but have added info specific to your questions about the 351HO: Engine stands: Also called perches or brackets, the engine stands are bolted and/or riveted to the frame. This is covered in detail on the page called Engine Perches/Stands/Brackets, but generally there are different stands for each of these engine lines, so if you are converting from one engine line to another you'll have to change out the stands. Fortunately for you the 5.0L is in the same engine family or line as the 351W and the current engine stands and mounts will work. Oil Pan: The engines in these trucks have to have a rear-sump oil pan. But, most Ford cars had front-sump oil pans. So, if you are swapping an engine from a car into a truck you'll need a rear-sump pan as well as the longer oil pickup and main-bolt stud that holds the pickup. However, in this case the engine you are buying should come with the right pan already installed. Transmission: For the engines used in these trucks there were 3 bell housing bolt patterns, and transmissions from one pattern will not work with an engine from another pattern w/o adaptation. But the "small-block" pattern includes the 3.8L V6, the 300 in-line six, and the 255, 302, and 351W V8's, so your current transmission will bolt up. However, you didn't say what that is and it might be the AOD since it was offered behind the 5.0L. But it wasn't offered behind the 351 as it didn't stand up to the torque of the bigger engine very well, so we need to have a further discussion about what you have. Flywheels: Each engine series had its own flywheels, and even within the series there were differences. I don't remember the differences between 5.0L and 351W for sure, but if the 351HO comes with its own flywheel or flexplate then you don't have to worry about that. Otherwise we need to get others involved as there was a change on the 5.0L at some point where it was balanced differently from the 351. Radiator: The 300 six radiator is the odd one out here as its inlet and outlet are swapped from all of the other engines. But, the radiators for the V engines are similar enough that you can usually re-use the old radiator - if it has enough cooling capacity. And in your case you should be fine with the 5.0L's radiator - assuming it is in good shape. Exhaust system: Obviously an in-line engine has a different exhaust system than a V8, but there's a lot of variation w/in the V8 line as well since 255's and 302's are narrower than 351W's so their Y-pipes are different. The 351M and 400's are the same block as each other so take the same exhaust. The 460's are quite wide and the diesel engines are very different from the gas engines. So, basically if you swap from one engine series to another you will have to change out at least part of the exhaust system. But in the case of swapping from a 5.0L to a 351W I think the main difference is in the Y-pipe. However, the headers he talked about appear to be to fit that engine in an early Bronco and probably won't fit your truck. Throttle cable: Supposedly each engine line takes a different length throttle cable. But the biggest difference is to the 300 six, and in your case the cable should be fine. Fuel line: As with the throttle cable there are differences. But for your swap the major difference is that you currently have EFI and that takes a high-pressure fuel system, which the carb on the HO engine is NOT going to like. So you'll need to put a pressure regulator, or two, on the system to drop the pressure down to ~5 psi for the carb. I've done that and it works well. Wiring: All of the gas engines have roughly the same basic electrical requirements, so the engine wiring harnesses between different engines with the same ignition systems are electrically the same. However, the alternators and sending units are in differing locations so the length of each wire may be quite different between the harnesses for different engines. For instance, the oil pressure sending unit on a 351M or 400 is at the rear on top, but on a 351W its by the fuel pump, down low. So, the wire to the oil pressure sending unit is a lot longer on an M than a W. In other words, if you don't use the harness for the engine you are swapping to then you are very likely to have to adjust the length of the wires going to various things. In addition, the wiring harnesses for an 8 cylinder engine has a ground to tell the tach to count 4 pulses per revolution, where the 6 cylinder harnesses don't have the ground so the tach counts 3 pulses per revolution. However, in your case the EFI system's wiring is quite different than the one the HO had in his Bronco. But, if you could get him to include the engine wiring harness then it would essentially be a plug & play situation - after you remove a lot of the 5.0L's wiring. Springs: There is a wide range of weights between engines, and Ford put the correct springs in the truck to make it work with the engine it came with. So, if you are changing engines you'll want to consider changing out the springs. Here are the stock engine weights as best I can tell from Kelly Hotrod for the V-engine info, and BlueOvalTrucks for the diesel info. 3.8L V6: 402 lbs 300 in-line six 255 (460), 302 (460), and 351W (525) 351M & 400: 575 lbs 460: 720 lbs Diesel: 860 lbs In your case the 65 pound difference is probably not enough to worry about, but I included it so you can see what other swaps might do to your springs. In other words, if you are going to swap to a different engine then the 351W is the easiest. But there are things that will have to change, and one of those might be the transmission. So let us know what tranny you have.

With fiberglass, yes. I actually have a lot of experience fiberglassing in general but for this I'll be using the typical RV industry stuff like https://www.amazon.com/Arctic-White-Fiberglass-Filon-Siding/dp/B01M3V344U. It's just too easy not to. It comes in 102" wide rolls at any 5' increment you want to buy. It seems a little expensive but since this is one of the only major expenses I'll have in Phase 1 (most of the rest is labor, or cheap stuff like 2x2's) it's worth it to get a quick-install-perfectly-sealed-exterior. It doesn't take that much, actually. The only part that gets this siding is the "wing" walls - the lower in-bed portion isn't visible/worth redoing, and is in OK shape anyway. Actually, the hard part will be working on it in the first place. I've been working on Rocky in my driveway, which works because it's a truck and trucks live outside. Campers sort of do too but not with their siding ripped off in Colorado, where it's always windy and about to get wet (Gary, I'm sure you know all about "mud season"!) and in a community with a touchy HOA. So the plan is to get it into my garage on some low furniture dollies, repair it there and raise the roof basically as high as I can while still getting it back out! Once I have the structural/siding stuff done I can bring it back to the storage unit and finish the interior there. That's exactly where it's from! I always liked Rocky and Bullwinkle when I was younger and thought it would be fun. They always got into hijinks, the truck is definitely "squirrely" and the camper is definitely a big dumb moose of a thing. Interesting siding. I wasn't aware of that stuff. I'll be curious to see how you apply it, what you coat it with, etc. As for mud season, we weren't aware of it until we were in Leadville during it a couple of years ago. We asked where everyone was and they looked at us like we had three heads. Apparently everyone else knew. But there wasn't any mud, and the weather was enjoyable.

Bill - That fits with what I read in the EVTM. Apparently the 4R75W wasn't available with those 460's but was with the 5.0L As for the Customer Use pin, I've been doing some research and I'll document what I find here: This page on WildHorses says: But back to the '96 EEC... Its most-curious feature is the addition of an input that disables emissions monitoring (only on V8s), called "customer use". It's for trucks that spend a long time idling, or at high-idle (like wreckers) driving a PTO. It took me a few years of research to find out what it did & how to connect it, but I eventually put that info into this caption: And that lead to the next item: This page on Supermotors says: The '96 V8 "Customer Use" pin #4 (323 LB/Y) is for a PTO indicator light circuit to change EEC strategies & self-diagnostics for stationary hi-RPM use. https://fordbbas.com/non-html/1997/c24_25_p.pdf POWER TAKE-OFF CIRCUIT INSTALLATIONS REQUIRES: 1) VOLTAGE WHEN PTO IS OPERATING 2) VOLTAGE OFF WHEN PTO IS OFF, OR WHEN IGNITION IS OFF 3) PCM / PTO CIRCUIT MUST BE ELECTRICALLY ISOLATED FROM THE SOLENOID, OR PCM DAMAGE COULD RESULT 1. Splice circuit 640, R/Y, located on the driver side under the instrument panel, labeled "Power Take-Off Circuit," to the body builder installed wire that connects to the positive side of the PTO indicator switch or PTO control relay. 2. Splice circuit 323, LB/Y, located on the driver side underhood, labeled "Power Take-Off Circuit," to the body builder-installed wire that connects to the positive (Switched) side of the PTO indicator light. Failure to properly connect this wire may result in erroneous emissions codes and illumination of the "Check Engine" light during PTO operation. In electrically actuated systems, the wire labeled "Power Take-Off Circuit," must be isolated from the solenoid or PCM DAMAGE COULD RESULT.

Thanks, Bill. As said in the email, your pages are identical to the 1996 EVTM page. In fact, I'm sure that's where the AllData came from. But I don't know where I got the other pinouts. I thought they came from you, but I guess not. Anyway, I compared every pin from the 1996 5.0L, which was MAF and SEFI if I remember correctly, to the 1996 CA 460, and they are the same with but two exceptions: Pin 4: The 5.0L has it and it is marked "Customer Use". The 460 doesn't have it in the EVTM, but my connector had it so I left it. From what I've read it increases the idle speed for PTO use, and if it works it might be really good for crawling in the mountains. Pin 84: The 5.0L has it as Output Shaft Speed Sensor (OSS), but the 460 doesn't. So, having confirmed that I know what was what I pulled about 2 dozen wires out of the PCM connector, the ones I don't need. And then I went through and labeled each one of them as well as sorted them into three bundles: those going through the firewall; those staying in the cab; and grounds. You can see those three in the pic below, with the through-the-firewall bundle to the left and consisting of 34 wires, and the in-the-cab wires to the right. However, in the group to the right is Brake On/Off (BOO), and it also needs to go through the firewall to the speed control. But it also needs to connect to the clutch switch. So with that and a few more, like the horn pad switch wires, I'm guessing I'll only have about 38 wires going through the firewall. I thought there was going to be 50, and since I have to connect all of them with two solder joints each, I'm happy!

I'm following this. Am interested in how you do it. But you are covering it with fiberglass? Hand laid or sheets? And yes, I'm aware of how cozy these can be. As said, we had a 9 1/2' self-contained and took it to Colorado several times, California, the Tetons, etc. Far, far better than tent camping.

We have no policy on off-topic threads. If you look I have a thread on wiring my boat. Bill has his Lebaron T2. etc. Basically, we are a community that came together due to Bullnose trucks, but we have other interests as well. So we tolerate off-topic threads easily. I'm guessing you are talking about it and I say go for it. I'd like to see what you do.

Bill - I need some help. I've gone through the pinouts that you gave me some time ago and found that they don't always match what I have nor what's in the '96 EVTM - for either a 5.0L nor a CA-spec 460. Below is the modified spreadsheet and it shows the differences. Green indicates a match and yellow a difference. Can you help me understand why they are different? I'm going to be pulling wires I'm not using out of the connector so need to get it right.

I think for once-in-a-while use that camera setup should work well. As for an update on mine, since the truck is down for EFI'ing I haven't used it in a month or so. But it was working very well before. Still want the promised waterproof front camera though. That radio was one I considered, but I wanted the mike to be smaller and didn't need the hidden approach. But I think they are quite similar. And I have the GMRS license as well. So I can use the correct offroading channel: 4 x 4 = 16. On the camper tie downs, I wouldn't have left the driveway with those. We had a 9 1/2' self-contained unit in a '72 F250 and even with good tiedowns it sometimes felt iffy. No way, Jose, I'd use those!

Good job on finding those things. You have to keep searching at all times, and you never know when something will pop up. As for the oil, I don't think you'll notice the weight of three more quarts. I'd put it in and test now while it is easier to correct any problems you might find.

Great! Thanks.

Bill - While I'm thinking about it, I'm planning on feeding both the PCM and the speed control the output of the VSS unit on the back of the transfer case. Is that ok? I know that it expects the output to be from the PSOM and I don't know if the VSS output is too high of voltage, the wrong waveform, or the wrong frequency.

I understand parallel projects. But I tend to focus on a single project until it is done. Tell me more about your license tag camera? What does it feed? And what GMRS radio? I have the Midland MXT115 and a pair of their 15 Watt MicroMobile walkie talkies.

Yes, and yes. You do have to drill it and then break it. And yes, the # shown in the shop manual is the "generic" part number. But to get the whole part number you need a prefix, like E0TF, and a suffix, like -A. You should be able to get the whole part number on our page at Documentation/Driveline/Axles & Differentials.

Oops, I forgot the solution bit. If your connectors are good you might be able to splice wire in to fix the harness. If not you might be able to make your own as most of Ford's connectors are available individually - see the page at Documentation/Electrical/Connectors. Or, maybe Painless makes one?

Check out our page at Documentation/Electrical/Wiring Harnesses. It happens to have the harness, which I think is 12A581 for the base number. But there are several of them so you'll have to chose which one. However, I don't think they are still available. But you may find that I'm wrong.

Looking good! But I didn't realize how much difference the temp makes, nor how much temp difference there is. Wow! Glad you found the socket you need. I think I've used Dorman sockets in the past. As for the temp, it is 72 now but tomorrow's low is 13. Tonight's low is basically tomorrow's high and then the next front hits. It has been a crazy year and I can't see how you can get anything done outside.

Progress. If you go look at the to-do list you'll find the PDB checked off. That's cause I pulled all of the extraneous stuff out of the box and wired up the two relays today. So the PDB is now ready to go. And while it doesn't look like much, it looks good to me. However, things didn't go exactly perfectly. I made a list of the terminals to pull out and I included Fuse 9. But that was to be used for the PCM Power Relay and the PCM itself. Unfortunately as I pulled the terminal out the retaining clip in the PDB broke off, so I moved that function to Fuse 10 and changed the documentation to match. And, I found that the power feed to the MAF and IAT sensors was burned in one spot. So I cut a small section of the wire out to repair the connection, but the wire was corroded quite a way back from the spot shown below, so I wound up cutting out a 9" section and grafting a new wire in.

You know where I live and how to reach me.

Oh! Arkansas! You said that, but I wasn't reading. Anyway, you are now on the map. As for the truck, I like the color scheme. But I don't like the TFI nor the feedback carb. The TFI mounted on the dizzy is failure prone, and the feedback system is a pain to maintain - but it can be done.

Thomas - Glad the fuel pressure regulator fixed the problem. As for seeing you in Kansas, I would love to. Unfortunately I'm going to be visiting my kids then - far away. So I can't be there to see you. However, if I had an address I could have some stickers there waiting for you. But, why McPherson?

Welcome, Mark! Glad you joined. Post up some pics of your truck? Nashville, huh? First, would you like to be on our map? You can see it at Bullnose Forum/Member's Map. Second, that isn't you in this thread? See the discussion re Thompson Lane and Nolansville Pike.

David/1986F150six sent me a link to this ebay advert for an aftermarket mounting bracket. It has several pics, but I've captured these for posterity. Thanks, David!

You are right, the fuse should protect the bus bar.

And you asked for wiring diagrams. But first, I need to confess that I just remembered that BB's passenger side PDB is a 6-relay model. So if you go looking for one like it you need to know that. And it has 3 large and 3 small relays. They number from 1 on the right to 6 on the left, and as you'll see below I've used a small relay for the low beams and a large relay for the high beams. The thinking was that I might go with bulbs that have a higher wattage on the highs, hence the larger relay. Anyway, here's the diagram. And even though it was "printed" at 600 dpi it is hard to read, so here's a link to the same thing as a pdf, and it can be easily read. However, this diagram is out of date and needs to be revised as it still shows powering the starter from a Bosch relay, and that is no longer the case - as we discussed. PS_PDB_Wiring.pdf Similarly, here's the EFI PDB. And here's the link to the pdf:EFI_PCB_Wiring.pdf. Last, while I don't have a drawing for the narrow 6-relay PDB we can easily do that.

John - I'll make this two posts to answer the questions in our phone call this morning. First, Here are a couple of shots Big Blue's large PDB on the passenger's fender. It is one of the mid-90's F-Series PDB's I mentioned. HOWEVER, it has the place for a megafuse on the inboard end, and the other PDB's I have that size don't. So if you want one that size you'll have to scout the salvages. But, as said, this one didn't have both studs for the megafuse, just one stud and a place for the other and I added the 2nd stud. The others I have do not have the place for the 2nd stud so won't work for what you want to do. However, this one will work and it is smaller. It is from Ford but the top doesn't say that. However, it has the place for the megafuse, although someone robbed the 2nd stud from it. And, it has places for 6 relays, and while only 3 of them are the larger relays, the smaller ones can still handle 20A if I remember correctly, so they'd be fine for things like the headlights and voltmeter, and you could use a couple of the larger ones for the heater motor. It is yours if you want it, and it would be easy to fit in between the battery and the jack. It is 4" wide & 10" long, and while the larger 5-relay box is shorter at 8" it is also wider at 5" so could be slightly harder to get in there. Still, either can be made to fit pretty easily.