Gary Lewis

The E4OD does require a specific crossmember that actually bolts to the outside of the frame on the passenger side. I can find pics if needed. And on the regular cab pickups it moves the transfer case so far back that it hits the floor. Don’t know if it would hit the Bronco’s floor, but it is something to consider.

Only you and I (and my hairdresser if you are old enough to remember the commercials) know how much you contributed. As for active members, no idea. Nabble doesn't provide any stats, but Invision does. We'll know when we get there. But we only need the $2050 to do the migration. The $1000 is the annual cost is made up of monthly Invision fees and annual Weebly and GoDaddy fees. I've been covering the Weebly & GoDaddy fees but with the addition of the $55/mo Invision fees it is time to get help. So we can do the migration if we get a bit more and then we'll stump for the maintenance costs. As for selling things, that gets into truly being a business. I don't know how to do that, but maybe someone does?

Going out this morning: (Sorry if the pic orientation is off. Maybe we should find another forum platform? )

Two problems with that. First, I've had that discussion with him and he doesn't want to continue to support Nabble. So we'd be on a platform that will some day have a terminal problem with no support. Second, there are features on Nabble that don't work and cause us problems. Like there is no reliable way to email someone nor a way direct message someone. And the joining process is both broken and awkward. We have to manually accept newbies, and it doesn't take them to the New Members Start Here folder and confine them to it. We are within striking distance of Invision and I'll be announcing very soon that the move has started. We just need a few more contributions.

Amen, brother! When I got Big Blue had bypassed the safeties on the electric fuel pump. Someone turned the key on and hydrolocked the engine. I pulled the drain plug and got 6 quarts of oil and 7 quarts of gas. And each cylinder was FULL as well. But yes, pull the air horn on the Eddy and you can set the float levels. Specs are in this document: https://www.edelbrock.com/media/wysiwyg/documents/carb-owners-manual.pdf

Whomever wrote it just cobbled together information about each alternator w/o revising the format. It is confusing and overly complicated. Which is why I just sent them this email:

No worries! I only mentioned the Saturday post to explain why I was very happy with an early Monday morning response. THAT is customer service.

Some may remember that Big Blue had extra heavy rear springs and rode horribly. I pulled two leaves out and improved the ride significantly. But I lost the ability to hook a trailer up and not sag a bunch. Now with the air bags I have the best of both worlds. The other day Steve/FoxFord33 and I took Big Blue & the heavy car-hauler trailer to get a Mercury Mountaineer. Got the Mountaineer loaded a bit too far forward but it wouldn't roll back on the trailer as it was stuck in Park. So I just added a bit more air and we were level.

Yes, I think that might be all you have to do. And, for the others, we did connect behind the scenes. Once I finish my 2nd cup I'm headed out to see what I have and will post pics and/or text them to you.

I did send them the email shown in my post on Saturday morning, and just got this response at 7:30 on Monday morning: "The higher amp. alternators have higher amp. stators in them, i.e., the 200 amp. alternator has a 200 amp. rated stator." So that's very good customer support, and very good information. (I hope they are reading this.) I do see in their listings that "Stators come out of Georgia." So apparently they are getting special stators wound that give higher currents. This I can believe. But if they are reading this I'd suggest that they put a bit more thought or organization into their advertising. They could simplify things a bit and still provide more information, like the info about the stators. And what is better about the voltage regulator they use? How about charts showing the output vs RPM? Curious minds want to know, and information like that certainly helps me make a decision.

Welcome to the forum. But somehow you've missed the email you were sent asking you to make your first post in the New Members Start Here folder. We do that because when you go there the first thing you'll see is our guidelines, and since we hold everyone to them we think it is important that you see them and have a chance to read them. Don't worry, that email is often missed, which is one reason we are moving to another forum platform. Anyway, once you've posted your intro come back here and we'll see if we can help you.

Well done!

How about I ship you the one I got that is dented? I got it from U-Haul and they just shipped me another one so it is sitting around taking up space. You are welcome to it.

My question in this thread is not what alternator to buy but what is the difference in QuickStart's alternators. They don't mention anything different between the 140, 160, & 200 amp alternators except the output, and apparently they are all running the same 210A diodes so it isn't that. I'm just curious - how do you get more current out of something who's outside dimensions are fixed? They don't offer, at least from what I can see, any better, stronger components that would explain how it is done.

Someone on here bought a new unit recently and had good results. But generally I like BlueTop and then Redhead, then new, then rebuilt as a last resort. Maybe Redhead just had a glitch and has fixed it? I really don't know.

It does look good, that's for sure. But there is another way - put air bags on it. You could use your old, original springs and normally add just a bit of air to level it. Then when you are going to tow add more air. I have a pair on Big Blue and really like them. It was a pain getting them completely air tight but I did and learned a few things. Now when I tow I can make the truck level again with just a shot of air.

If the carb is, for some reason, jetted rich and you hit it with a full accelerator pump shot it'll fall on its face. And any extra fuel pressure will exacerbate the problem. So backing off to the middle is a good idea, and installing the fuel pressure regulator should be next. And you should check the float setting to make sure it isn't too high out of the box. I've seen a lot of poorly-adjusted brand new carbs.

Congratulations! Well done! I've done a few marine restorations and know the wonderful feeling when you've had it out the first time. But, like you found, there's usually a minor problem or two that takes sorting after the first outing - and sometimes after the 2nd and 3rd. But eventually you get it sorted and get to enjoy the boat. It is fun!

Exactly! Hit it harder and it might turn loose, or it might break and I have to buy a new one. I opted for the safe way out.

Do you have two Edelbrocks? If so, swap them? As for pressure, 6 psi is probably too high. What happens is that you set the float level but when the pressure comes up it lifts the needle and tends to raise the fuel level, which makes the AFR a bit richer. But that usually shows up at idle, not WOT. So yes, you can set the regulator at 4.5, which is where I like to run them on an Eddy. It'll be plenty of pressure but not raise the float any. As for the metering, I wouldn't change it until you get the fuel pressure where it should be. Do you know that the secondaries are opening? What happens when they do?

Just a reminder in the main section to both let you know that we will soon be moving to Invision and to let you know where we stand on funding. As you can see in the thermometers at Bullnose Enthusiasts Forum › FORUM/WEBSITE PLANS & FUNDING, we are at ~55% of the $2050 goal for migration and 15% for the $1000 goal for maintenance. But you may be wondering why the migration goal is now $2050 instead of the previous $1800. We learned this week that our file format doesn't meet the requirements for Invision so they need to do a file conversion, and that's another $250. But by going this way everything is in their camp and they are responsible for everything. So, for those that are thinking of contributing, please do so soonest. We need to get closer to the $2050 before I can say "go" to Invision and they can start writing the code to do the conversion. You can see how to contribute in the link above, or just email me at janeyandgary@gmail.com.

It has slowed down, but hasn't stopped. Just got another donation in today and was told by another that the check is in the mail. Plus another has said he'll contribute. Also I sent an email to all of those that have said they'll help just to let them know we are ready. Having said that, we had a minor set back this week. In working with Invision to get things ready to go we discovered that the file format we can get doesn't meet their requirements. But they can do the conversion for another $250. So our migration goal is now $1800 + 250 = $2050. Anyway, I'll post something in the main section to let people know where we are. Thanks!

Yes, those must make sweet sounds. I can only imagine what duals sound like. We sold our Sea Ray with the Mercruiser 377 in it, basically a Chevy 350 with the 400 crank. What the hotrodders call a 383 when it is bored .060 over. It was Chevy's answer to Mercruiser when they asked what they were going to do when Chevy discontinued the 454. At one point the Mercruiser site said of the 377: "Same power and more torque than a 454 HO carbureted engine. This torque monster delivers 429 ft-lbs of raw torque at 3800 RPM to launch even the heaviest boats with authority." But it had a little bit of lope at idle, which made the exhaust note cool. We took it to Lake Powell and idling back into some of the sheer-sided canyons it made an awesome sound!

Good job! As for tracking you down, don't miss the email from Chris asking you to try again.

I'm having a hard time understanding how the diodes can be the limiting factor. QuickStart sells 140A, 160A, and 200A alternators with what seems to be the same 210A diodes. At least all three writeups say each has 210A diodes. So I just sent them this email: As for the recalcitrant alternator, I do have a heat gun and used it many, many times to get the case as hot as I dared and then hit it with a hammer at the sticking point while having a large weight on the shaft. I had the case supported on the front half and there was no movement. So I gave up and installed it. Maybe some day I'll put an alternator on with more capacity and the proper clocking. Which is one of the reasons I've asking questions of QuickStart.