Gary Lewis

I'm really glad you mentioned it as now I know it shouldn't be a problem. However, it is easy enough to pop the unit out of the stand and get it up at window level in case there is a problem in some conditions. Anyway, I got it mounted, although the wiring will have to wait until tomorrow. Here's a pic of it mounted to the floor, but the story of how much fun that was will wait a minute or two. And here's a driver's eye view of what it looks like. Yes, it is a ways away, but I think it'll work well there as the audio output will be connected to the Aux In on the Sony, so we'll know when and which way to turn. Plus, as said, it can be easily popped out of the stand. Note the wiring that comes off of the mount. That has power, ground, audio, and some serial outputs, but I won't be using the serial outputs. And now for the how-much-fun story. In the pic below you can see the tools that finally worked. But not until I broke two 1/8" drill bits and pulled a bit of carpet pad out. The final solution was to use an awl to create a bit of a hole in the carpet and pad, and then run that soldering pin down in the hole, letting the #8 screw open things up a bit. But even then the drill bit grabbed the padding. So I finally put a piece of tubing over the bit and that did the trick.

Welcome! Glad you joined. Show us some pics of Betty? My "crate 460" came from up your way - Scotty at Parkland built it. And, speaking of up your way, would you like to be on our map? You can see it at Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu. As for suggestions, how much do you plan to drive your truck? A ZF5 tranny with the overdrive helps on the MPG.

I don't think electric fans should be part of Step 1 in solving this. I believe that complicates things. Big Blue handles this 100F temp just fine with his mechanical fan unless you sit and idle for maybe 10 minutes, and even then running the engine just a bit faster moves both air and water and cools him down. I would concentrate on the radiator first, and later if you see a need for electric fans do that step. So, does your fan come on strong when the temp comes up? It should make a lot of noise and pull a lot of air at an 800 RPM idle when the coolant temp is up there. And, are you sure it is getting hot? Do you have an accurate gauge on it? Last, when I was looking for a Champion 4-row they did have 3-row radiators in stock, and I think that would probably solve the problem - if the fan is working correctly and if the temp is truly getting up too high, like 220F.

Here's the result of testing the Garmin Montana 750i in the yard, left, and then in the truck on the right. Yes, the signal strength is down some, but not enough to worry about. So I'm in the process of installing its mount on the transmission hump.

It was Megiddo that recognized it.

Ding, ding, ding! We have a winner! It looks like that is C240 for the Ignition Key/Seat Belt/Headlamps "On" warning buzzer.

I think that is an air cleaner off a 460 as they had a back door like that. But I don't know for sure as I don't have one of those air cleaners. Perhaps someone that does can confirm. Anyway, I can't find in the master parts catalog a number for that vacuum motor. However, there is probably a number on it, so if you drill the rivets and pull it out I'll bet we can figure it out.

Thanks for the info.

Ahhh! That makes sense. Today's plan is to see how many satellites the Garmin sees outside of the truck, and then how many it sees when down where I want to put it. If that seems to work then I'll mount it and connect it to the Sony stereo. That way we should have turn-by-turn guidance if we want it, and the Garmin will be charged as we drive.

If you have the HVAC box out, now is the perfect time to replace the hinge. It isn't a question of if it will fail, but when.

Water head? Is that what it is called? Yes, it was the perfect solution. Thanks, I like the seats and the console. They really make the truck better for long trips. Not only are the seats very comfortable, but the console is so functional. I'd like to move it back a bit, but not right now. Maybe when I make the new base as then it'll be easy.

I don't know. I don't have any info that I'm aware of that shows how they were painted. If I do I hope someone will point it out to me.

I got the seat spacers done and installed. Here's a shot of them after trimming and powder coating. Note the button-headed cap screws in the center - more of which later. And here's how the seat fits. Neither the back nor the bottom are leaned back as much as the passenger's seat is. It feels good and gives more room than it did before. And, it goes back all the way and locks into the last notch on the rails. Ok, remember the statement about the button-headed cap screws? Turns out that they were just exactly what was needed to allow the seat to go back to the last notch. In the pic on the left, below, you can see where I used them, and you can see the track almost up to it that the roller makes. In the pic on the right, which is looking into the rail, you can see that fastener and above it a part of the carrier assembly for the roller - and you can see the roller in the background. With a hex-headed bolt the carrier goes over the head but the roller hits the head and stops short of the last notch. With a regular socket-headed cap screw the carrier hits the head and stops. But with these screws nothing hits and the rails go back to the last notch and stop.

Yep, it is just money. And when you are talking about engines, there's a lot of money involved.

The drawings did help and I think I understand that. As for the distributor, I think I understand. But do you have to move the HEP's or can you just rewire them?

I'm running L&L long tubes. But I had to trim the frame 1/4" to get them to fit.

In my case the guy admitted they were wrong, but I already knew that 'cause it had the wrong fitting. And, every single piece had to be re-bent.

Yikes! While talking about fuel systems (I know that's the other thread), the Bullnose sending units have a totally different resistance range and it is backwards from the later sending units. And sending units are keyed to the tank, so you don't want to put a later unit in your tank or vice versa.

I'd hate to send anyone to Inline Tube. My experience with them was awful.

I should have asked why your ECU is laying on the transmission hump?

We are good.

No problem, it happens. Glad you joined and like the site. On the fuel lines, I ordered new nylon lines and fittings and made all new ones for Big Blue.

Welcome! Again. Do you go by KG or? Nice looking truck. Hope you'll start a thread or threads so we can follow your progress. Where's home? We have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and we can add you with a city/state or zip.

Ditto my previous reply. Have you read the guidelines?