Gary Lewis

Wow! You found a crossmember with a receiver?!?! That’s cool! You are really going to enjoy that. On the overheating, I can’t imagine that actually happening at idle with a new thermostat, newish radiator, good shroud, clean coolant, etc. It has to be the gauge. Can you put the mechanical probe where the stock one is and put the stock one in the thermostat housing? As for the hydroboost, I’m anxious to see the report on the stopping power. Seems like the firm pedal confirms what you’d read, and you obviously got away from the hiss of the vacuum booster, so you’ve already made gains. Just a bit more work and you’ll have a much-improved braking system. 👍 Man, you are really making progress. 🎉

Interesting! Are there any numbers on it? I’ve never seen one of those that I can remember, but until Matt Vose gave me the one that covers the ignition module I didn’t remember that either. But we sure saw one at the show on that ‘85. Hmmmm...

Yes, they are interesting videos. And informative. I do think you have the models figured out, but they they did that escapes me. As for the 5.0 HO, I wasn’t aware that the manual said there was one, but the brochures don’t say it ever saw the light of day. Nor does the catalog. So, I guess you have a unicorn. 😎

I agree with Chris. So, when I said to use tape, I meant on the joints where the foam has gone away. And the pop rivert were to pull parts together that have warped or gapped. Just get it 90% sealed, but not perfect.

Good job. I like the ideal of tape where you can on the joints. And the pop rivets are a good idea as well. But I don't know if you can get epoxy to hold to that plastic.

There are versions with and without the threaded pipe port in the rear for EGR tube? Also there was some discussion about a version with four bolts attaching the intake log to the exhaust log. This one won't work for us unless you get the matching 4 bolt intake. It would be good to get to the bottom of this to know for sure which ones will work with our intake and which ones won't. Here is a good reference thread on the HD manifold: https://fordsix.com//viewtopic.php?f=2&t=56939 Edit: if anyone is wondering why David does not just buy a new one from Stevens, evidently these Chinese cast reproductions have a problem with cracking... and they are not exactly inexpensive to turn around and have that happen. That is why it is worth the effort to hunt down an OEM part. To continue the discussion, it looks like there were two intakes. Note that on the previously-posted clip it takes 2 studs to join the intake to the exhaust. How does that square with what is being said about there being 3 studs?

You may be David's hero.

From the 1973/79 Heavy Truck catalog, it looks like the part # would be D9TZ 9430-A, which is what the box would say according to Bill and Chris, but the part would be marked D7TE 9430-EC. Rear Counter says there are 4 of them in captivity, although I didn't request a price. But Stevens Parts says there is a D7TE 9430-FC casting number. So, with the one Jonathan posted and the one Pete found, I'm thoroughly confused.

So, what's the plan, Stan?

Rick - Thanks, I'll add those bits of info. As for the Lariat going away in '83, I got that from the thread Jonathan started on 1983 Vintage Advertisement Videos. As I said in one of the posts, at 11:04 we see that the XLT replaced the Lariat in 1983.

👍

Good price, and they aren’t easily available.

Jim - Do these look familiar? Agreed to buy them off a guy on Bill’s Big Block Facebook page for $125 shipped.

Cool! So, I guess it has been replaced.

Mind? Absolutely not. Ship anything to me, any time. 👍 That’s great. I can easily scan those sections and have them available to download if anyone want to check the accuracy of the table. And using the color scheme will be easy since there’s little to change. As for leaving out the gory details, I’m for that. However, I was curious how we got from ESP-M2C166-H to Mercon and Dexron, so that was helpful to me. And writing it out gives me a place to go to get back to those little pieces of trivia. 😎

Jonathan - I think we are fairly well in agreement on this, but let me say it is a different way. First, at this point I think we would have most of the questions covered if we had a 1978 or 79 manual to get the NP203 info for Scott, and your 1989 manual for the ZF, E4OD, and 1356 info. So, what if it said "The following table has been created from information in the Lubricant Specification sections of Ford's 1978, 1985, and 1989 owner's manuals, which can be downloaded here to check the accuracy of this table: (and then there'd a button to push to download each of them) That way this table can be an amalgam of the three, or more if need be. But, one table could do everything for specifications. However, the tables in Weebly don't allow links. But, we wouldn't really need them if we color-coded the information to the manual, like red for 1978, black for 1985, and blue for 1989. But, what do we do if we have a situation where the specifications have evolved? Do we really want the reader to have to go to the Evolving Specifications tab to figure out what to put in his ZF instead of Type H? How about another column that gives the latest specification, and still have the explanation of how things got there on the Evolving tab? And then we need a table that shows how much for each device.

Include it in what way is the question. Add it to the 1985 info? Include the whole 1989 lubricants section? I guess what I’m thinking is to not say the table I have is directly from the 1985 manual, but to say it is compiled from several of Ford’s owner’s manuals. Then include links to download that portion of the appropriate manuals to prove it. Does that make sense?

Gary, Bill & I met with a Parts Manager over there named Jay Estes during our excursion, I have his business card. I’m glad you posted this as it reminded me that I’ve not updated it with my findings. Miss Ellie, the secretary to the general manager at Bill Knight Ford, called back and said they would be interested. However, they can’t because Skiatook is not in their Dealer Management Area. So I needed to find out which dealer “owns” Skiatook. (Given that, I guess I don’t need the parts manager’s name.) So, I turned to Google Maps and discovered that we are exactly 20 miles from two different dealers - Joe Cooper and Bob Hurley. I called Cooper first and the receptionist sorta listened, misunderstood what I was asking, but finally said she would have someone call me. And, here we are 5 days later and no call, so I was right when I told her “That’s ok, I’ll call the other dealership.” In spite of her insistence that “Someone will call you.” At Hurley I drew Paul Thomas, who said he will ask the regional rep on October 3rd when he talks with her to see what DMA we are in. So, I should call back after the third. But, I didn’t really get what I was looking for, like an offer of advertising or several trucks, as he said I can come down and check out a truck for the show. That’s no help as I have a 2015 that is almost indistinguishable from a ‘17, and the 2018’s aren’t much different. (Basically like trying to tell the difference between an ‘85 and an ‘86.) So, I really didn’t accomplish much. 😩

I’m of three minds on how to present the information. I really want it to be definitive, not the opinions that so many other places have. So, I like having the actual page from the owner’s manual available. But, none of the Bullnose ones include the ZF. So, do we include the whole of the 89’s lubrication schedule? Or just add it to the ‘85 manual?

Well done, Jonathan! 👍

Interesting. The plot thickens! Glad you got a match. But no build sheet or buck tags?

If those were a little higher quality I could convert them to PDF and OCR them. But, I could still just write the stuff down. And, good idea to include the quantities. I need to do that on the other stuff.

It does look like the 9E is the best match. (I like the way you've shown all three colors against the original 'cause even with different monitor setting we can see the difference.) Have you looked for a build sheet or a buck tag? The build sheet is sometimes above the glovebox, sometimes in the springs of the seat, sometimes under the carpet. And sometimes MIA. The buck tags can be on the firewall around the windshield wiper motor. And sometimes there's one on the front of the bed between it and the cab.

Yup. Just looked at the Ram chart. Assuming that truck has 3.21 gears, which are the standard gears, it is rated to tow 6,870 lbs. My 2015 F150 is rated to tow about 5000 lbs more than that. But even if it had the tow package and 3.92 gears it would still be 1000 lbs less than mine.

I'll put my 3.5L EB up against a Hemi in a Ram pickup any day and under any condition. Acceleration, towing, or MPG. In fact, the only place the Hemi wins is in sound - the little EB just doesn't sound cool. Darth might be a similar story, although I suspect Darth would get better MPG than the Hemi under loaded conditions. But think about how much more solid Darth would be as a tow vehicle than the Ram. The Ram is a light 1/2 ton with coil springs in the rear, no trailer brake controller, probably no serious tranny cooler, and a high axle ratio.