Gary Lewis

POR-15 actually adheres better to rust than it does bare metal. You need to remove flaking rust and any grease or dust, but you can paint it right over the rust and it is supposed to kill it. So, you could coat the inside of your doors with it and that should stop the rust.

Bill - The initial salvo from Core Tuning was "i helped bill out initially, this is Adam." I was guilty by association right off the bat. Yes, I've been surprised that in a previous conversation Core Tuning was suggesting the EEC-IV. I don't want to go that way. But, I do want to understand why they are saying the '96 F250 is the way to go. Anyway, if Ray/NotEnoughTrucks' computer is an F6 then the whole harness is 1996, right? As for Darth, that is good MPG. Big Blue doesn't beat 10 very often. Last, I'd love to have one of the computers to start looking at. And, by the way, Jim is shipping your core support hardware to me. What color do you want me to PC it? Ray - It is looking more and more like I'll want your harness, if not the computer. Want to shoot me an email on pricing?

Had the same joke in Groton. Yup.

In reverse order, Page 40 of the 1981 EVTM shows the park lights. Note that the front lights, although not the side marker lights, are dual filament. So, either you have the smaller filament on both front bulbs out or you have a wiring problem in the brown wire circuit. Yup, resistor. Wanna do a how-to on re-pinning that connector? Dash looks GREAT!

Just had a brief FaceBook messenger discussion with Adam of Core Tuning. Told him about the 1995/6 F150 5.0L harness and EEC-V computer and he said " I prefer going with a 96 F250 series PCM to control everything." About then Tim Meyer called, and I didn't get back to Adam before he seems to have left for the day. But, I don't know what is better about the F250's computer - yet. As for Tim, we went over my idea of going with Trick Flow's R-Series 5.8L EFI upper/lower combo that bolts up to the Cleveland heads - and he liked it. Should bolt right up, using the adapters, and allow using the Windsor fuel rail, harness, etc. But, he gave me the name of a guy at Trick Flow to talk to in order to confirm it all fits and will work with my engine.

Folks - I'm trying an experiment. (Yes, you live in a lab.) I've started a new "project" called EFI For Dad's Truck. And, I'm using that post as a sort of a whiteboard, where I can keep track of what I plan to do. But, instead of it being on my computer where no one else can see it, I have it out where you can see it and suggest changes. However, I've locked that thread so people cannot make comments to it. Instead, I want the comments to come in the E4OD thread. That way I can come back to that page and update as the plan evolves. And, if you want to try it yourself I've changed the permissions so that authors of topics/threads in the Projects folder, and only in the Projects folder, can lock their own threads, meaning no one can comment. Just post a project, click Options, and then click Lock Topic. At that point no one can comment and, since you can edit your posts at any time, you can come back whenever you want to update it - just like a whiteboard. Let's see what we think of this. All input appreciated.

All - I've started a new "project" called EFI For Dad's Truck. And, I'm using that post as a sort of a whiteboard, where I can keep track of what I plan to do. But, instead of it being on my computer where no one else can see it, I have it out where you can see it and suggest changes. However, I've locked that thread so you cannot make comments to it as I don't know that we would be religious about going back to that page to look, and just keep the comments going - much as we are here. So, I'd like you to look at that whiteboard and come back here to make your comments. OK? Bill - I see what you are saying about the computer location, and now understand better why you changed. And, I may well need one or two of those molded penetrations. Or, I may be able to find Ford's original one for the 1982 trucks and see if that would work. I do have the corrugated tubing/convolute, and I like the idea of running along the frame and then across to the opening under the seat. After all, the factory harness will come to the point right above the frame at the firewall, so I'll splice on there, drop down, and head back. But I can split out the wires going to the tranny from the engine harness, and just loop them to the tranny right below the seat. And, I can come back into the cab at the firewall with the OD switch wires, and I'll use the 90's dash-mounted switch unless I can get a shift lever from a later truck to fit. However, I'm not sure I know what you were saying about the EEC-V. Are you saying Ray's won't be OBD-II and MAF? Or are you just telling when those things started? (I get easily confused.) And "BE2012 and a Mongoose pass through cable" means Binary Editor 2012, and you added the cable to your computer to program the boxes?

I'm going to put EFI on the 400 engine in Dad's truck, for a couple of reasons: And, since the theme is "As Ford would/could have done it" I'd like to use as many Ford components as possible. However, since the 335-Series engines were never injected by Ford, I'll have to use components from other engine families. So, here's the plan at this point in time. (Note: This page is locked so there can't be responses as I'm using this as a whiteboard of sorts in order to keep track of what I want to do. But you can respond in the E4OD For Dad's Truck thread.) Wiring: 1996 Ford 5.0L wiring harness and associated EEC-V computer. That will be mass air flow (MAF) and sequential (SEFI), giving the best control of air/fuel ratio. PDC: I plan to use the 96’s power distribution center “as is” as much as possible. It will have fuses and relays to power many, if not all, of the circuits of the truck, and I’ll use them instead of the fusible links the Bullnose trucks originally had. Computer: The computer will have to be reprogrammed to handle the different cubic inch displacement of the engine, the larger injectors to handle the power, etc. For this I plan to use Core Tuning's system. Computer Location: Under the driver's seat as I don't think it would be easy to mount it in the driver's kick panel like the later trucks. Intake: There is not, as yet, an intake manifold that fits the 400 and has provisions for injectors. However, Trick Flow makes a 302/351W style intake specifically for the low-deck 351C engine. That would allow using the wiring harness above with other standard Ford parts. However, since the 400 is the tall block I'll have to use Price Motorsports AP-29 spacers to adapt the smaller intake to the taller block. Harold Miller of Trick Flow says it should work fine, although I'll want the 75mm version and not the 90mm one to keep velocity up at low RPM. Injectors: I'm hoping to use stock 460 injectors. Intake Plumbing: Stock 87-93 Mustang inlet tubing, air cleaner housing, etc. may work. However, the Mustang stuff goes on the passenger's side so it will be interesting to see if it'll fit by flipping it around. Fuel Rails: The stock rails from a Mustang will work, but Trick Flow has some fancy ones. Distributor: Stock 460 EFI distributor as the 335 and 385 series share a distributor. Harold says the intake will clear it, although I might have to use spacers on the fuel rails. Throttle Body: A stock Mustang one will work, or an aftermarket one.

First The Bad: I don't believe it would be easy to put the computer in a Bullnose where it is in the later trucks like this '90. That's because the 90's hole in the kick panel is 1" larger front/rear. And, because the front sheet metal of the hole is recessed 1 1/2" on the later trucks. Without that recess, which positions the computer over an inch to the left, the connector would have to come through the firewall very close to the park brake mechanism and right at the junction of the kickpanel and the firewall. Here's a pic showing how the front of the opening is recessed 1 1/2". (And, it shows The UGLY - the carpet of the huck, which has been a home to a serious colony of rodents.) And you can see how the computer has been set over an inch to the left, which puts the firewall plug left of the park brake mechanism. Now, here's a pic of the same area on Dad's truck, and there's no place to put the 'puter. The bracket's rear end will go into that hole, but it is 1" too long f/r to fit down in. And even if it did the computer's connector would be perfectly lined up with the joint between the kickpanel and the firewall. However, on to The Good. Here's the seat base sitting in Dad's truck, and the computer slips neatly under it, with 1/2" to spare height-wise. So, that brings up the question of how big the EEC-V computer is. If it is the same size as the IV, which I suspect it is, then it is a perfect fit. And, if the connector fits on it the same way then it'll point right at the opening in the floor, which can be seen just past the connector of the computer. Yes, I know that means lengthening a whole bunch of wires, but that's easier than making your own pigtail. And, if I can find another harness at a salvage I can use the same wire colors.

David - I thank you for that endorsement. But I feel somewhat like Tim did here at the house that Friday night when I introduced him as “The Ford engine guru”. I don’t really deserve nor want the adulation. But, your words of caution are good. I, too, have been burned by more than one person on transactions - although none on this forum. However, I don’t need to get even or cause them any problems - they’ll have to come to terms with that some day. (I wish I really, really felt that way. A week ago yesterday the sermon was on forgiveness - my toes are still hurting.) Anyway, there are many on here with whom I’ve had dealings and trust implicitly. I won’t mention any names for fear I’ll miss someone and offend them. But we have a good group of people on here, and I’m glad to call this “home”. 😉

Yes, F6 would be ‘96. 👍 I’ll look the ‘90 over for the opening and compare to Dad’s, but they are in the same room, so that’s easy. And, I’ll check the possible interference of the floor opening with the seat base. Oh yes, the 1982’s had the computer under the driver’s seat, with the wire running under the cab. This one had a 351W and a feedback carb. I’ll post a pic later of that opening as well as the opening in the 90’s kick panel. So, if that harness is EEC-V and OBD-II then I would think it would be an easy one to use. Or, maybe “easier one”, as it will still be a lot of work. But there wouldn’t seem to be a need to create or find an EEC-V harness and graft it into the EEC-IV harness that I have. Plus, it will be set up for the Windsor injectors, throttle body, etc. And Trick Flow makes a Windsor-style lower plenum to bolt to Cleveland heads. Yes, it’ll take the adapters to go to the tall M block, but no machining is needed. Add the Trick Flow upper plenum and the intake plumbing from a 5.8L and it should all bolt/plug together. But I’m sure the computer needs a bit of tuning, so I have emailed Core Tuning to see what they have to say. Anyway, does this sound like it might work?

Conanski said: But I’ve read elsewhere that there were some pre-‘96 trucks that got OBD-II connectors but they weren’t fully functional. Might Ford have been getting the wiring set up but not have the computer programmed for OBD-II? As for the computer’s position, is there room under a Bullnose’s kickpanel for it? And I’d have to cut a hole in the firewall for the connector?

Bill - You said “the OBD-II on the 96/97 models only went to the EEC-V unit”, but Ray’s harness is a ‘95. Are you saying it won’t have OBD-II? Ray - I’m not questioning your knowledge. I’m just confused. Can you help me understand? As for the seat, that may not work as I’m using that adapter to bolt Bronco buckets to a regular cab. I’ll have to look to see if it blocks off the hole in the floor.

My cab is an '82 with a round plate under the driver's seat for the wiring to the ECU to come through. Why couldn't I mount the computer under the seat? I'd really rather not have to cut the firewall. As for the speedometer, are you saying the computer expects there to be certain gauges, like the speedo? And gets upset if they aren't there? Can that be turned off? I've been planning to call Core Tuning, but it looks like tomorrow may be the day. Perhaps they can help me understand as my head is swimming.

Ray - Was it from a 4wd truck? Or does it matter? Dad's truck is 4wd and Bill was saying something about the computer needing to know that you are in 4Lo so it knows when to shift. And, where is the computer located on a '95? What I was hoping to do was to go with a harness that would position things basically where they are going to be so I don't have to cut and re-wire. Also, was this an A/C truck? Or is that something that can be added? And was '95 SEFI? Bill - Why won't this work? You sent me a list of EEC-V modules that would work, but they all were from a '96 Bronco. Why not a '95 F-Series?

Oh that trimming. I used the plasma to remove the side walls. Thing is because of the liner it would catch fire and remain sticky and a mess to work with. The cut off wheels if used near the liner also would melt it and gum up the wheel. The best was sawzall and what I used when getting closer to the final "trim line" as it would not melt the liner. I also used a flap wheel disc on my angle grinder to et really close to the line. I may have trimmed the front floor a little short so I will need to make the "L" lip on the front panel to repair rust a little longer to reach the floor. Did a little more work on the bed. Got the front cross member and support brackets for the running boards and lower front side panels worked out. Need to pick up some hardware and drill a few holes and the front will be done. I then started on the rear support brackets and rear panel. The style side floor is longer by about 2" and if I keep it I cant use a stock tail gate. I am thinking of trimming the 2" off and welding in the flare side rear panel as seen in the picture. Dave ---- Dave - I'm lost as to what you mean about welding in the flare side rear panel. Can you explain that a bit more? I'm old and slow.

LOL! Your parrot's dead.

You guys are so far beyond me! But Ray mentioned the "302/351 EECV ECM's in the 95/96 trucks that also supports E4OD". So, instead of using either the '90 or '95 harness, why not get the underhood harness from one of them as well as the tranny harness? That way it would already be set up for EEC-V, MAF, & SEFI. And, if I used a 351W EFI upper and lower intake manifold, with the requisite adapters to fit to a Cleveland head, the harness would fit right on it.

Good luck! But I would bet it will work.

I needed the front to rear bit Thanks on how its looking and yes lots of assembly/disassembly/trim/test/etc. Like groundhog day over & over LOL. On the hardware I would like to use stainless, then I don't have to paint the heads. Guess I don't have to paint the plated but they do not stand up to the weather all that well. Then again plated is cheaper and there are some bolts I have not seen kits for (have not really looked either) like the running boards. And as we all know the banker (wife) has the final word what I can spend What is meant about "trim the floor with?" The floor has LineX bed liner on it that I am leaving as it is a PITA to get off. I will put a coat or 2 of roll on bed liner left over from the cab floor to cover the white paint I put on to see where I marked the floor for trimming/cutting. Once the floor is painted and on the truck frame the front & side panels sit on top of the floor just like if it was the wood and gets bolted down. Sorry to hear about that hungry cut off wheel that bit you. I fear one of the cut off wheels "blowing apart" when using them. I try not to stand in the line of fire when using them. So far I am using a sheet metal plasma cutter, a Sawzall and a few 4" cut off wheels and all safety gear when using them. Dave ---- Dave - I think you answered the question about how you are going to trim the metal - plasma cutter, cut off wheels, and sawsall - with protective gear.

Missed this. Throw the washers in an envelope and I'll talk to Bill about what color he wants them to be. Thanks.

Jonathan - That may be a bitter layer, but trust me, it is gonna be so sweet when the heater works just right. I drove Big Blue today and just now coming home it was cold so I turned on the heat. Boy, did it feel good when it worked. No muss, no fuss, it just worked.

Here are the pics, albeit poor quality. But you can see that things are quite different.

My mind is Bill - You said "for Gary's use, that is not a problem and as long as only one O2 sensor is used...." Are you saying I can't have an O2 sensor in each exhaust? So, maybe I need to 'splain what I want to do and you tell me what it takes: I want SEFI & OBD-II. My understanding is that to do SEFI will either require EEC-V, or at least be far easier with EEC-V, and OBD-II requires EEC-V. So, that tells me I need to do EEC-V. If I'm right that means I need to find the right 5.0 or 5.8L computer, and I need to create a harness for it from whatever harness I'm using. Right?