Gary Lewis

Good thought, Bill. I've not tried that, but should. Thanks!

Nice looking truck, but I'm not seeing anything in the writeup that tells what engine it has. Nor are there pictures of the engine compartment. And it doesn't actually say that it runs or can be driven.

Check out this post.

Jim - Thanks for that.

If there are no leaks and the pedal fades then you must either have a leaking master cylinder, meaning fluid is leaking past the piston, or have air in the system. Your statement of "If I pump them up only the right rear engages if I slam on them all 4 work but the pedal fades" is telling. That really sounds like air in the system. So I would bleed the system, starting in the right rear, then left rear, then right front, then left front. It won't cost much, if anything, and I think that's where the problem is.

I think Scotty recommended the 180 for the engine he built, and with EFI it shouldn't run any better with a higher temp stat. But I can certainly see that unless you are driving long trips the warmer stat would get the water out of the oil a lot easier/quicker. And surely it would be warmer in the winter. We had it out last week and it was 50 degrees out with a north wind. Had to run the temp lever up fairly high to get the cab warm, and even with it all the way up the air wasn't HOT. But then the water temp stayed right on 180 given the 4-row aluminum radiator.

Dual snorkel? Yes, I built one. Pretty easy really.

The standard Borgeson was on the truck when I got it, as was a "special" steering box. Long story short, I replaced the special box last week with a Blue Top and couldn't be happier. The truck drives like a new one and I don't see the need for the shaft with a dampener in it.

I'm running a 180 degree stat and the heater isn't very hot. Been thinking I need to change to a 190.

I just posted this: https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/No-brake-fluid-in-rear-line-tp142007p142033.html

If I remember correctly, Ford's instructions to center the shuttle are to STAND on the brakes with the engine running for boost. You don't have to be moving, but you need to put a lot of force on the braking system. However, if there is no flow to the rear, as would happen if the line is crushed, then the valve probably won't move. So the line has to be good first.

1985 was the transition year on wire colors. 1984 should have hash and dots as well as stripes. 1986 has all stripes. But in spite of the 1985 EVTM showing hash marks and dots on several wires I've found plenty of 1985s with stripes instead.

My ECU connector was cut from the harness. That wasn't a problem as the harness would have placed the ECU in the left kick panel and I wanted it in the stock Bullnose position right of the throttle pedal, so I had to add wire anyway. I just used black wire and extended the harness to the connector, soldered the connections and covered them with heat shrink tubing - lined with adhesive. My reasoning was that if you follow whatever black wire you are wondering about either way you'll find the proper wire color at the splice. So it doesn't bother me. Given that, I'd pull the harness out and see if it can be salvaged. Secure the ends of the harness on the bench so you know how long they have to be, and then start surgery.

Cool! Thanks.

Ok, thanks Jim. Now maybe I can translate my understanding to something someone else can grasp. As for the top one, it's lower flange might be a good candidate to weld onto a 2009-14 shaft. No good for anything else given the bend.

Cool! But where did you find the Dana/Spicer #?

Hiya Gary, The 1987-1991 steering shafts will swap right into a Bullnose. They're definitely better than the 1980-1986 steering shafts with the proper "dry" u-joint at the top, and the bonded rubber rag joint at the bottom. I installed one in my 1984 F150. I mainly did it because my bullnose upper joint rubber was ripped (like they all do eventually). Of course a Borgeson shaft is probably the best option, but it's expensive. The Bricknose steering shaft is a good upgrade piece imho. PS: I got a used southern shaft from Steve83 that used to be on here. I think it was $15. Unfortunately, the spring in the slip joint was broken in about 3 pieces, and no matter how hard I tried I could not find a proper piece of metal to replace it with. I ended up welding a couple nuts on the sides of the shaft and put some set screws in to remove the slop. Jim - I typed that this morning, hit Post, and walked out the door to church. Got halfway there and it hit me - I should have tagged you. Guys - I think I'm starting to understand. But let me try this on you: Bullnose: Has the boot over the upper u-joint which usually (always?) splits and the rag joint at the bottom that gets sloppy. The one at the bottom of the pic below is a good example, although it lacks the splined piece that goes onto the steering box, and which may be in Connecticut. 87 - 91: A good upgrade over a Bullnose as it has an upper u-joint that needs no boot and a rag joint that is tighter and smaller - like the one in the middle in the pic below. 2009 - 2014: Has u-joints on both ends but won't fit onto either the Bullnose steering column output shaft nor the Bullnose steering box input shaft. So Jim cut the pinch bolt ends off of his 2009 - 14 shaft and welded ends on from earlier shafts that will fit the steering column and steering box shafts - and ensure they are properly phased to keep the steering wheel aligned with the wheels. Top Shaft: I have no idea what the top shaft in the pic is off of. But it has the same rag joint and splined end as the 87-91 shaft, although it very different at the top end - and that is bent.

Bad as in crimped or mashed flat? Or at least plugged? Once you replace that then I don't think you'll have a problem getting fluid back there. But maybe I'm missing something.

I'm pretty sure it'll fit w/o going to a serpentine setup. I'm running a serp setup on Big Blue and it would fit if it was a vee belt. So I think you'll be fine. BUT, placement of the air box on the fender is fairly critical as the hoses/tubes are just barely long enough when the air box is in the right spot. So when the time comes I can get you the dimensions.

Yep, that's a D44. So you are looking for PN E0TZ 3C140-A.

Yikes! That would explain a lot! I put the grommet over the wire and then put the pins in the ECU's connector. Then I put the connector through the firewall and inserted the grommet. So I think I'd pop the grommet out and bring the connector out through the firewall.

This thread is intended to allow me to understand what Jim did to create a Borgeson-like lower steering shaft at about 1/10 the cost. Here are some links to pictures and discussions thereof: Recent discussion with pics and links Discussion in Lower Rag Joint thread This discussion in WHYDTYTT The overall intent is so I can accurately create a tab on a page in Documentation to explain to others how to do it. But I've not twigged myself so have some questions for Jim - or anyone for that matter: 1. You cut the u-joints off of the 2009 - 2014 F150 lower steering shaft and welded them onto your old steering shaft? 2. In this post Cory said that later lower shaft is a direct swap for the Bullnose one. But that didn't work on your '87, Jim? What was different?

Thanks, Jim. That pulls it all together. I'll see if I can get something whipped up soon, but am sure to be back with several questions. But I think I have several bits and pieces that may answer my own questions.

Thanks, Jim. I'll do that.

Good idea! Long ago, I was carrying horses and while I stopped at a farm to let one horse get down there, the upper hose cracked. Just couple of miles from home, I was able to get back home with a LOT of electrical tape around the defective hose. Since then, I renew Big Brother’s coolant hoses every 7-8 years. Not so expansive and much more safe… Yes, it is a good idea to replace hoses periodically. And coolant as well since its corrosion-fighting abilities go bad over time. As for the clamps, I do like those w/o slots that damage the hose. I'm using EFI-style clamps on smaller hoses, like the 3/8" ID hose for the power steering return as they don't have the slots either. But they don't go big enough for heater hoses, much less radiator hoses. But I'd not thought of coving the heater hoses with pipe insulation. I guess I wouldn't have thought that the water would lose much heat as it flows through them, but maybe in really cold weather? Or, maybe you need a higher-temp thermostat?