Gary Lewis

Only after you explain mine:

Thanks. I've created a new page and have stolen Cory's words. I've edited the sample certification label I use on the page at Documentation/Specifications/Certification Label to include a Reserve Capacity section. And if you click that blue box you'll be taken to the new page at Documentation/Specifications/Reserve Capacity. Please see what you think and give me suggestions.

That may be it, Jim. The max additional constant load.

Ok, is this the right thread? Big Blue's official #'s are F0403 and T0157. And here are my thoughts: Front: The GAWR on the front is 3850, but that was with the original tires, front TTB's, and springs. But I'm running a 95 F350 D60 axle with 2005 SuperDuty U-code springs and larger tires. I've found 2005 trucks with that combo and their front GAWR is 4600. So I'd bet the front suspension can handle a lot more than the 403 lbs shown. However, I do have the Warn bumper and 12K winch, although the aux battery would have been included in the 403 as the truck was ordered with an aux battery. On the other hand, both batteries are a LOT heavier than factory. And there are other things that add to the front axle's load, albeit not 100% as they are between the axles, like the inverter, the on-board air system, the toolbox stuffed with tools, the bed cover, etc. Total: I can't wrap my head around the "157" number. The original GVWR is 8600 lbs and it weighs 6560, so that's basically 2000 lbs. That means we are off an order of magnitude!

The email system on the forum is a mess. That's apparently because Franklin, Mr Nabble, diddled with it to prevent spammers from using it. So it doesn't tell you when it sends a message, and doesn't always send one. So I sent you and Bill an email to connect you 'cause I have your email addresses. Sorry.

. Wrong thread.

I’m out and about, but will comment later. However, BB’s aux battery should have been included in the figure as he came with one. But obviously not the winch nor bumper. Subtract for the headers, but add for the inverter, air compressor, bed cover, jack, etc, etc, etc. On the other hand, there’s the D60 and SD springs, so….

Yes, I suspect the TPS as well. But I don't know that much about adjustable ones, so will tag Bill, who does.

I didn't mean to suggest that the heated throttle body would make any difference with a cold start. Like I said, im not as familiar with these early systems as I should be, and just wanted to be sure I knew what I was talking about. Surely the ECU should command enough 'idle speed' that the engine runs. Regardless the lookup table, it doesn't want the engine to stumble and die. I'm not familiar with them either. I know they don't have the full capabilities of what the EEC-V systems have, but I don't know how much less they have. I think where we are is that with the given inputs we are either outside the "startup" lookup table or the answers in the lookup table aren't adequate to get this engine to run. But by opening the throttle just a touch the answers get it to start. However, even then the answers aren't adequate to get it to run at a reasonable RPM until it warms up. It may be time to read up on the EEC-IV. I found this which might help: EEC IV Inner Workings. I'm reading

Ok, got that done and now I'm back. And it looks like I need to update the Certification Label page with this info. As shown above the '85 owner's manual has this:

Aloha! I don't remember the answer to the question but I think it is at the bottom of this thread. However I'm right in the middle of something and don't have time to check it out right now, so maybe you can. And I'll be back later to see if you have or if I need to dig deeper. So please post what you find. (And then you can get back to it later. )

Yes, the IAC should be able to get the RPM above 1K. But we don't know what the ECU wants the idle RPM to be immediately after startup, which is somewhat based on ACT and ECT. Big Blue goes to something like 1400 for a few seconds after starting when everything is "cold". So something's not right, for either starting or idling "cold". And yes, this year probably had a coolant-heated throttle body initially. But it may not now, although I doubt that would make much difference in startup or cold idling.

The starting problem seems to be associated with the throttle position. At cold temps it takes a rich mix to start the engine, but if the TPS is telling the ECU that the throttle is closed more than it really is then maybe the ECU won't give it enough fuel to start? Hopefully the adjustment this weekend will fix that. If not then maybe it is time to replace the ACT?

LOL! Gentlemen, since I use this forum in parallel with English dictionary , I’ll share with you what I found: In this case (an answer that gives unsuspected information), interjection «huh» is used to express contempt, surprise, etc. In some other context (which is obviously not the case here), «huh» can also mean “whatever”, which is a kind of dismissal — the person doesn't care what you think… My brother in law, who is born in Western Canada and lives there with my sister and their kids, has a formula that combines the two. So you never know what he really thinks. It kills me. «Oh, interesting.» I like that - Oh, interesting. I'll go with that.

Gary, I could have written exact same words, I read you after looking at the picts, I had the same thoughts! I really don't understand people going with weird-looking headlights. Imagine the Mona Lisa with no eyes? Or demonic eyes?

Very nice truck! It'll go for a lot. I like most things about it, but I do NOT like the headlights. They look like empty eyes in a painting and change the whole look of the truck. But fortunately that would be easy to change.

Thanks again Gary! I'll look around to find someone to do the welding. I can get the steering box off, but I'm a parts changer with no welding experience. Hopefully you can find someone that can come to you 'cause it isn't going to be easy to take your truck to them.

Jeff - I'm tagging John/Machspeed with this post and am hoping he can email you the decal since he created it. If not I can take a picture, but given the gloss on the decal the pic might not come out well.

Yippee! Glad the whistling is gone. That's a step in the right direction. And while you still have the cold-start problem, adjusting the idle may help that. But are you saying that you have to hold the idle up to 1000+ RPM? The ECU isn't doing that?

Well done, Jeff!!! Thank you!

So you have hot coolant circulating through the heater core (both hoses hot) but the heater core is air locked.. 🤔 I've cut these in half (photos back on FTE) and it's simply not possible for coolant to flow and it to bypass the heater core. Maybe your coffee can is leaking vacuum again and the doors aren't switching the way they should? Some of us (Gary & others) are running a Ranger style Max A/C bypass valve in the heater loop. I still live up here in CT and don't have any need for that sort of thing. Yep both hoses were hot but cool air blowing out any of the vent outlets. No the control for the outlets works by vacuum on factory AC systems. The temp control is by cable on all systems IIRC When I switched between floor / vents / defrost it worked as it should just not hot. It was not till I mashed the throttle to the floor a few times did it start to get warm but not hot like before the core swap. Yes I also run the vacuum bypass valve like the others but I think my control leaks internal as it will not pull enough vacuum to work the bypass valve and I had to mod it to work but it still will not close all the way to stop hot air blowing when temp is to cold. Because of that I am thinking of removing the bypass. But again if both hoses to the core were hot, could hardly hold them, but blowing cold air when control on hot what would you call that? I took the truck to the food store and it was pretty cool so had the heat on. It was nice not to smell coolant and it did warm the cab but I may see if I can get the right core and swap it out as it was not that hard. Did not even have to drain the system as the core was higher than the radiator. Dave ---- Sounds like you fixed one problem but have another - the blend door hinge is broken.

As I’ve thought about it, I think the drivers side panel has a crack at the top, I may just cough up the bucks and get a new one. I should, the dash in this Bronco is in excellent shape. The rest of the interior is too for the most part. It now belongs to my son and when he’s done with college he’ll come home and get it, so I’d like to hand it off in good shape. Probably a good plan, Stan.

Looking good!

My POR15 is behind the seat, and at the bottom of the cab, so there's no need to top coat it. This was my first time applying it and I can see why it comes highly recommended. It's way better than the goopy stuff the previous owner tried to fill the pinholes with, but ended up trapping dirt and moisture with. Dane - I was able to glue my panel back together and reinforce it with an aluminum strip when I broke that lip when I tried to staple the scraper strip on. Pop rivets are much better than staples for this. Shaun - POR15 works very well for a lot of things. Messy, but works well. Just make sure you don't put the lid back on the can w/o a layer of waxed paper or cling film. That's because it is almost a given that you'll get some paint in the groove and it WILL glue the lid on. Permanently.