Gary Lewis

I think these connectors are better than the ones used on Bullnose trucks, so I think they are an upgrade.

Ok, y'all missed it. The catalog told us that the later E8TZ 3B676-A shaft would fit our trucks. We just didn't look at where they hid it - in the Bronco section. But they don't say it'll work for the 80 and 81 trucks, although I can't see why not. The steering box is the same and I put an '81 column in Big Blue and it hooked up to the Borgeson shaft just fine, so...

Please take lots of pics and post them. Like where you cut parts off, where you weld them on, how you get the phasing right, etc. We can add to the page. Good luck!

That's a good question. We have a thread called Master Cylinder Upgrade Part Numbers. But I think it only deals with F150 or Bronco brakes. For your one ton you'll be looking for one with a bigger bore. In Big Blue's parts list document I have this note: "1 5/16” bore, probably ACDELCO 18M886 from a ’99 F450 Superduty." But for your truck you will probably want to get one for another F350. Here's a search from Rock Auto's catalog for a 1990 F350, and you'll see several there. But make sure you get one with a reservoir - and the residual pressure valve, which you'll need as it adapts the threads to match your brake lines. But I didn't check to see that any of those come with the residual pressure valve, so you'll have to check that out. Speaking of the brake lines, the newer masters have the front and rear ports switched so you have to bend your lines a bit, but it is easy.

I'm using these on Big Blue. But then I ordered the crimper separate, so you might consider getting this package that appears to include the crimper. But others are using Weatherpack connectors, which are probably better - and cost a lot more. Just note in either case they aren't designed for a lot of current, just signals.

Might you go to new weatherproof connectors? I know you'd have to change both sides, but it might be better than using old connectors.

You do know that any number ON a part is not a part number, right? If not go read the page at Documentation/How To Decode Ford Part Numbers. And now for the bad news. To convert ID #'s, like what you find on a part, I have to turn to Ford's master parts cross-reference catalog. Here's what I found: D4AB-14A459-JB The D4 means it first came out in '75, and my 1980 cross-ref doesn't include that part D4AB-14A459-HB The D4 means it first came out in '75, and my 1980 cross-ref doesn't include that part D8AB-14A458-EB (this one is kinda cruddy to read, but I think I got it right) You may not have gotten that one right as there's no reference to a 14A458. It jumps from 14457 to 14A459. However, all is not lost. Take a look at the page at Documentation/Electrical/Connectors and see if you can find them.

No, I haven’t. Sorry.

I love it!!! Perfect!

For my part, women in my life don’t even know what a Ford Bronco is. Maybe I just don’t live in the right country… I love the article conclusion! You mean: Update: 1980 Ford Broncos are now selling for $35,000. Update: Now it's $3,500,000.

Interesting build. I'm running a Truetrac in back and I really like it. Makes no noise and does its job w/o intervention. But you might want to think about a locker for the front as well. I'm running an OX, although I've really never had to use it. As for sway bars, I don't have them even on the front nor connected in the rear and don't need them. But I have all leaf springs and suspect you are all coils, so you might need them. And if so then disconnects would be a big benefit. And I have Bilstein 5100's up front since I installed the D60 axle and kit which meant the yellow ones wouldn't fit. And these have been fine, although I hear the Fox's are very good.

Looks like "72" to me. So we have another instance of one part of the MPC being wrong. As shown below it says that an 84 didn't get that axle. But here's a truck made in January of 84 that got one. Glad you had the BOM so we could look it up another way.

For get the vacuum bleeder go straight to the pressure bleeder. I never got a vacuum bleeder to work right. Dave ---- I haven't gotten a vacuum bleeder to work very well either. The bleeder screws always leak at the threads. But pulling them out and coating the threads with PTFE thread sealer worked fine that one time. I really like my later model master cylinder that has a single cap. And I've made a cap with an air connector, so I just put about 3 psi on it and open the bleeders and let the fluid come out. Easy peasy.

Pretty sure that boot is not available separately. Don't know that the steering box is likely to leave you stranded unless the seal fails catastrophically and you loose all the fluid. But I've not seen that happen. Still, I think you'll really like the difference with a new BT box.

LOL! I think you are near the top of the heap. I doubt very many can tell an 82 from an 80.

Cool! No, Warm! Glad it worked. All of it.

And I should have posted this to complete the loop:

Both show as open/unlocked:

The 605205-7 does decode to E4TA 4001-BEB or BEC with a 4.10 ratio in an 84 F250/350.

Trust me, if your steering box isn't either a Redhead or Blue Top you don't have optimum steering. Ford's design was to use the cast iron of the box as the bearing for the front of the shaft. Over the years the box wears, and when everybody but those two rebuild the box they just check to see if the size of the bore is within their tolerance. So the box you get isn't as good as new, and may be pretty loose. Redhead & Blue Top bore out the box and press in a bearing. So now it is TIGHT. The previous owner of Big Blue spent big bucks for an AGR-213678 steering box that purported to have all new components. And currently costs $422. But the steering has never been all that good in spite of having all new ball joints, tie rods, and a Borgeson lower steering shaft. Recently I spent $255 for a Blue Top box that transformed the steering. It now steers like a new vehicle, with no slop.

No problem, I just wanted to make sure they were the same. And you might want to take a look at this thread: https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/Big-GIF-short-movie-td141822.html. We thought we figured out how to post Youtube videos so they fit whatever screen you are using. However, we know it doesn't work on some Androids, so if you know how to fix it... Welcome.

Yep, that works. I think that's the same process explained at the bottom our Bullnose Forum/Forum FAQ's page on the Posting Pics tab. Right? But yes, you aren't our normal Bullnoser. However, I retired from IT about 15 years ago.

I'm not sure a steering shaft is the best first welding project ever. So I would look at one of the 1988 - 91 shafts. Should be a direct replacement, and while it has a rag joint it is a much better one than the Bullnose shafts. E8TZ 3B676-A But while you are "there" take a look at the bottom bearing of the steering column. It is only plastic, and if there is slop in it this would be the time to replace it with something better, like the DRB one. And, if you are one of those "while I'm in there" guys, like me, the Blue Top steering box is a wonderful improvement.

Rock Auto says this one fits a 2009 F150. That's the year & model he said he bought for, and those are the part numbers I'm giving on that page. It looks to me like the one that Jim used, but I'll let him respond to that.

Ok, unless someone finds something else I think I'm done. I've added the bit about the spring as well as included it on the parts number page. And, speaking of part numbers, I added the entries for the Broncos. What do you see here?