Gary Lewis

The back one is the secondary bowl, so it being dry shouldn't make it hard to start as it doesn't contribute to the start or idle air/fuel mix. (I'm pretty sure that's the case on the 4180C, but there are Holley's that have idle circuits in the secondaries.) However, it is very possible the front is leaking as well. Or, that the power valve or accelerator pump is blown, either of which will leak gas out of the primary bowl and into the intake manifold. If they leak fast enough it'll make it hard to start hot as it'll be rich, but the gas usually evaporates in time that it isn't rich in the morning, so you have to fill the bowls up again in order to start it. (These are the reasons I'm not a Holley fan.) You might check that the four bowl screws are snug, but don't crank down on them as the center casting is prone to warping if you tighten them too much. I'm pretty sure you are going to have to learn how to rebuild a carb. We can help you with that.

Thought so. In that case you can't just adjust for max vacuum. That's why they introduced the propane method. It is really confusing that they say the trucks above 8500 lbs don't use the propane method, but then they don't give the proper method. Bill - Is there a rule of thumb? Like "Find max vacuum and then lean the mix by 1 turn"?

Jim - With the larger booster does the 250/350 master/booster combo wind up giving the same pressure for the same pedal force?

Mojo - Do you have emissions testing? Is that the concern on the idle mix adjustment?

If the residue is black it is carbon.

Doesn't really matter since there's no flow. But, for grins put it on the manifold side.

I did it on Big Blue in situ, and it is a pain. But, it can be done.

I’m glad Jonathan replied. I didn’t realize that the pedal is different as well. So, even if the parts look to fit, inc the master cylinder, you’ll need the pedal. Good catch.

I’m not sure Luke will respond quickly as he’s not active on here. But Jonathan posted this info on that door: http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/1981-straight-six-manual-4x4-project-tp1312p3556.html

I used SEM products on Rusty and the worked and held up well. But the key is the prep. Follow their instructions closely.

I don't have that one but do have the 1981 version. Go for it!

It is worth a try since you've seen a how-to that proves it'll work. Let us know, please.

Happy Father's Day! That's a nice present, and one that is quite useful. And, apparently fun to use or your wife wouldn't be doing it. Cool! I can see that it would be very useful for cleaning engine compartments before going back in with a new engine. And for de-cruding in other areas as well. Hmmmm.....

First, if you hear constant hissing when not applying the brakes then the booster must be leaking. You can check that by using a vacuum source, like a Mityvac, to pull a vacuum and see if it stays or leaks off. And you might even be able to determine if it is leaking by sucking on it, placing your tongue over the end of the hose, and going again and again. If it isn't leaking you should be able to pull a vacuum on it. If it is leaking you won't. Assuming the F350 booster is vacuum-operated, what is the advantage of it over the F150 version? Potentially it'll be bigger and give more boost due to the larger piston the vacuum is working against. But do you need more boost? In other words, do the brakes require a hard push to stop - like Big Blue's do. And, will it last longer than the 2 years this one did?

Wow! That is undoubtedly the longest, and arguably the best, intro I've seen. Welcome! I really love the "my grandfather" or "my dad" bought it new stories. That makes the truck so special. And yours is really special with that bed on it. I assumed that the home-made flatbed was wooden, but I was wrong. That thing looks like it was very well done and it is "serious". What's the blue thing under the bed? Storage? Fuel tank? Anyway, let's talk about your plans for the truck, the starting issue, etc. The best thing to do is to start a new thread about the plans, needs, etc in the main section of the forum. That's because here in the New Members section you may not get as much help as you would out there, and that has to do with "subscriptions". You can read about them in the thread called, oddly enough, Subscriptions, but the gist is that unless people actively subscribe to a folder or a thread they may not see any posts in it. Having said that, let's talk a bit about the starting issue. I'd bet the choke isn't coming on correctly. And assuming that you still have the original Holley 4180C carb on it, then the instructions for adjusting that carb are in the book I scanned in yesterday: Fuel Systems/1985-1986 Fuel System Adjustments. But the test is to pull the air cleaner when the engine is cold, open the throttle a bit to allow the fast-idle cam to slip under the adjustment screw, and the choke plate should close almost completely. If it does then try to start it while watching the choke - it shouldn't pull off until the engine is running, at which point the vacuum-operated choke pull-down should open the choke slightly. Oh, and you do set the choke each time you start the engine cold by opening the throttle a bit - right?

Go to the member's map, scroll over to VA, and he shows in Exmore. He shows as Bill/85lebaront2. Click on that and there's an email link in there.

Having now read through it, I don't think it is the silver bullet for which you are looking. Sorry. But, it is the best I have. I've even read through the '85 shop manual's instructions thinking it might have something different than the '86 one, but it reads the same. Perhaps Bill Vose can help?

I added the 1985/86 Carburetors and Fuel Charging Assembly Adjustments book to the website today: Fuel Systems/1985-86 Fuel System Adjustments. It is Ford's training manual for their tech's.

Don't get too grateful until you see what I've got. It is here: Fuel Systems/1985-1986 Fuel System Adjustments. Take a peek, but I'm not quite done as there are additional pages that I need to add. But, that's the beauty of the new approach - I can work in the background on the files while you use them in the foreground. And, next time you refresh the page you'll get the updates. Hope it is what you need, but please let me know - either way. Oh yes, the file is currently 33 Mb, and will get a bit bigger as I add the pages that aren't in there yet. So, it'll take some time to load.

You are, literally, on the map. As for the 4180C tuning, you are causing me great difficulty! Seriously, I have a series of Ford training manuals and I'm in the process of scanning the one shown below. But, at some where near 90 pages it'll take a while. And, I'm not sure it has what you need. But, it is the best I have.

Well, it turns out that my book only has pages 23 - 33 of the accessories section. I scanned them on my wimpy little scanner and they are here. But, you'll quickly see that my scans aren't of the same quality as the other ones. But, I think they'll suffice.

Jochen - Good to hear from you! Glad Jonathan quickly answered your questions. By the way, you and he share the bit about using your truck to pull and haul. See his post here.

While I do try to help out answering questions on the various Facebook groups, my first priority is to this forum. And on Facebook I'll refer people to the correct page on the website, but for members of this forum I'll actually add pages to the website. And, thanks for the explanation on the name of your truck as well as your "handle". Also, where are you located? We have a Members Map that shows where some of the folks are, and I'll add you if you want. Just give me the city and your first name, although that isn't required.

Were the XLS fog lamps black? As for the accessories tab, somehow I didn't get it scanned for the '83 book, but it is there for the '82 book so you might look at what it says. And I'll try to get the '83 version scanned ASAP. And I assume the "secondary door seal" is the one on the top as I've not seen another one. Last, you sure got a crisp up-close capture of the facts book. Apparently the new approach works pretty well.

Thanks! Learning to use Google Drive wasn't the easiest thing to do, but for my own edification as well as others, here's how it works: Put the file on your Google Drive. This can be a PDF, a Word doc, or whatever. Open your Google Drive in a web browser and go to that file Right-click on the file, click "Share", and change the permissions so that others can see it. I use "Anyone with the link can view:. Double-click the file, which opens it in the browser's window Click the three-dots icon in the upper right & open the file in a new window Click the three-dots icon in this window and click "Embed item". Copy the HTML code that's in the box Go to the page where it is to be displayed and paste the code. Note - if using Weebly you must paste it in an Embed Code element. One advantage of this approach is that whatever changes I make to the document get reflected on the web page automagically. A disadvantage is that the Google Drive has to be maintained for the life of the website.