Gary Lewis

Would the black sealer have some mass to it? The bed liner does and, therefore, reduces the noise that is transmitted through the floor by lowering its resonance. (Mass loading.) And, would the black sealer be slick? The bed liner wouldn't and, therefore, would tend to keep the mat from walking. Just some thoughts.

Well explained, Dave. Yes, it easily could be the power valve since the accelerator pump appears to be working. And, as Dave explained, that's the problem with earlier Holleys - a backfire usually blows the power valve. There's a fix for their poor engineering in the form of a check valve that can be installed. But a blown power valve will cause the engine to be terribly rich, and I'm not sure that fits your symptoms. However, it is certainly worth a try.

Dave! That is REALLY COOL! He really knocked it out of the park!

Pete - Do you know what Bullnose colors they have? Is there a way to figure that out like I did on the SEM colors? I'm not pushing SEM, but that's the only match info that I have.

All of the "2 outlet" PCV valves I've seen have had a blank for the top one. I've heard of some applications requiring two, so apparently for those you cut the tip off the second one. Anyway, go with one like you have. But don't forget to put your finger over the end of the PCV valve with the engine running to see if it'll idle down, which would indicate lots of air going through it.

Let me know how it goes. I have to do that for BB, so want to learn any tips I can.

Got the radiator support and associated pieces back from the paint/body man today. Took a pic but I don't like it, so hope to get a better one soon. Anyway, just trying to get some things done toward Big Blue's upgrades while the grandkids are here.

Let's see if these help. In the first one (which needs to be rotated 90 degrees CW) you can see that the upgright part of the "L" goes against the cab when the door shuts.

I like them!

Yes, it sounds like there's a significant vacuum leak. That's only way that it would idle that fast. Perhaps the PCV valve is bad? Try sticking your finger over the opening on the end of the PCV valve and see if the idle drops dramatically.

I'll get more pics in the morn.

Yes, I believe the wheel is the same. But it is just the horn pad that is different.

Amen, brother! I didn't mean to sound like I didn't appreciate the post. Just wanted everyone to know that even though the seller said it is right for a pickup or Bronco that it isn't. Should work fine, but isn't correct.

Well, I had an interesting find this morning. Went out to Big Blue, camera in hand, and opened the driver's door - no extra weatherstrip. Hmmm, I could have sworn..... Yep, the passenger's door has it. Pics below, but I can't feel any hole or locating pin through the foam, and surely I'd be able to feel the pin if it was there. And the driver's door, which must have had the extra weatherstrip originally, doesn't have a hole. So I'm pretty confident that the factory weatherstrip was just a glue-on piece. In the first pic, the back edge of the weatherstrip is basically 5 3/8" to the edge of the door, although that's hard to gauge as the door has a bit of curve there. However, in the second pic you can see that the front/bottom edge of the weatherstrip is even with the bottom of the top nut on the top hinge. Hope that helps, but let us know how it goes. I need to do that for Big Blue as I tilt at the same windmills. Oh, if you need more pics just let me know. I realize now that the ones I have don't really show where it is supposed to go and which way, although maybe the installation instructions do.

Don't know, but I'd assume in or near BA as that's where Brandon lives. Not Muskogee, but closer than Skiatook.

Brandon says: Gil Blumenthal Mobile (918) 813-6305 Have him call Gil.

Welcome! That's a good looking truck and it appears to be in excellent shape. And, as an '84 w/a 2bbl it should have the computer-controlled carb and ignition, so needs to remain stock in order to run properly. (The computer gets its knickers in a twist if you modify anything under the hood.) We actually have another member in SW Ohio - as you can see on our Member's Map, which is a completely voluntary thing. But if you'd like to be on it just give me the name you'd like to go by as well as your city. (We don't want to get too precise on the location.) Anyway, glad you found us. Enjoy!

I don't think that missing fluid in the front section will find its way into the booster. But it probably doesn't take much fluid leaking into the booster to kill the diaphragm, and you might not notice the loss from the rear section. So check the booster to see if it has fluid in it when you replace it. Maybe you just got a bad booster. That seems to happen more and more often these days with new parts.

I understand the physics involved with the bore sizes of the master and slaves as well as the leverage change induced by moving the pivot point. But I don't understand the differences between the F150 and F250/350 boosters. However, they are obviously matched to the master cylinder and should be kept together. And, you have a good point about why Ford changed the bolt pattern and fittings. Which begs the question "Why attempt this change?", which brings us back to the questions of "Has the booster failed?" and "Why did it fail in just 2 years?". I found this explanation of how the boosters work. And, within it says: And then it offers this regarding why boosters fail:

So "next weekend" apparently means whenever Mother Nature causes the sky to be blue? What about the lady from Germany - is she still there?

Randy - Sorry to hear that it didn't fix it. I don't have a good recommendation, but perhaps Brandon/Bruno2 will. He's a lot closer to you than I am. You are looking for someone that can do a good job troubleshooting, and I'd recommend that he run a leak-down test to find out if you have valve or head gasket problems. Valve problems can cause all sorts of issues that cannot be solved with carb tuning or replacement. As for the leaks, where are they?

I can get you pics tomorrow as Big Blue has that weatherstripping.

Good luck! And, let us know how it goes.

By "roughly" did you mean my guess of 1 turn lean from max vacuum is close? That was just a wild guess, but I know they had to be very lean to pass.

It is nice looking, but I'm pretty sure it is for an E-Series van. Here's the one being advertised: And here's the Rosewood steering wheel for a 1980 - 84 F-Series truck. (In '85 they went to Burlwood, which is a completely different look.) Notice that the van's grain runs side-to-side while the Rosewood grain runs up and down. It would work, but is not correct.