Gary Lewis

This post might be a good place to start on Rusty's thread.

That will make it easier. Won't have to torque it back on either, and that was a bit of work.

That is the charcoal canister that absorbs (adsorbs?) the gas vapor when parked and gives it back when the engine is running. It is a known "leak" and the ECU compensates for it. Anyway, I hope all of your work pays off.

Well, I said to myself «Why not give a try, it won't kill anybody». 1- Cold position, before any move: 2- After depressing the pedal ("partial" choke flap 100% closed): 3- After ignition, when it began to "rough run" after the initial 4-5 seconds, I forced the opening a little bit with a screwdriver. Looks that it helps, the engine runs smoother: 4- I stopped immediately the engine (so it stays cold), and I decided to modify the position of the choke heater, turning it a little bit clockwise. This places the cold flap position slightly opened: New cold ignition, the engine starts immediately and after the initial 4-5 seconds, the engine continues to run smoothly. "Rough run" seems to be gone. I'll test this setting couple of cold mornings before declaring the issue solved. Gary, you had a good intuition! Wonderful!

Yes, it is fine to ask for help here for someone on FTE. There's lots of good people there, and particularly Dave/Franklin2. So if you have him helping you then I probably can't be of any more help. I say that because all I know about the 2G is what is in the EVTM - the '86 EVTM as the '85 EVTM shows a 1G. But I find it really strange that there are two different voltage regulators for them that have different connections. Anyway, sorry but I've read through the thread and don't have anything to add. I'd follow Dave's lead.

Glad things are coming together. Hope you nail down one of the tuners. But I have no clue on dates for those emblems. Hopefully someone will know.

Gary, I replaced Big Bro’s carb not so long ago. This new Holley carb has a “partial choke flap” design, as I already posted in this thread. Could this has to see with my «rough running» cold start? Can I apply these instructions to my “partial choke flap” carb? Oops, I forgot that. I doubt you can use those instructions on the different carb. Bill's the guy to ask how to adjust that part on that carb. But I'd still back off one notch on the choke cap.

It takes a special puller, and even then I tighten the bolt with my impact, rap on the side of the pitman arm, tighten, rap, tighten, rap, and then it comes off. But I leave the nut just barely on to catch it.

Just email them. They are very responsive, although today is the day before Thanksgiving so they may not be in. orders@bluetopsteeringgears.com

Is the lower shaft the later one with an exposed u-joint? As for checking the lower bearing, see if you can move the shaft side to side very much. Should just be able to move it.

It isn't necessary if your bearing is ok.

You have the original carb, the Holley 4180C, right. If so it sounds like you have the choke plate is closing too far. I say that because you said that the smoke starts after 4 to 5 seconds, which I would think is before the choke heater could possibly be expected to bring the choke off. But the process to adjust the choke closing, aka "choke plate pulldown", isn't straightforward, as shown in the snippet below from Ford's service manual on that carb. That being the case I'd back off one notch on the choke setting.

Is this guy going to enter TJ’s house by the chim / ney? LOL! No 'cause the chimney is very small. Was probably for gas logs. I think he'll go in via the garage door.

I'm not familiar with the disconnect nor with auto hubs - except for the ones on Blue, my 2015 F150. They operate via vacuum, when they operate. Had to have them replaced under warranty, so I'm not a big fan. Haven't had any manual hubs fail, so I like them better. And I like your jack storage location!

Oh yes, Blue Top has the DRB bearing for $65 if I remember correctly, and DRB sells it for $70 + shipping. So just buy the bearing from BT and have them put it in the box and you'll pay less and won't have a shipping charge.

I sent a spare steering box in to prime the pump. I think mine went out on Monday and I got the same one back on Tuesday, meaning 8 days later. But they got it on Wednesday and it was to go out on Thursday. However they had a blizzard with 12+ inches of wet snow so the UPS truck couldn't get to them to pick it up until Friday.

Yep, perfect quote. But hasn't Toyota been working on a hydrogen-burning vehicle? Surely that would fix our reserve problem. Just fill the bed.

Why not hydrogen?

That appears to be an 8-lug specific issue...?? I just went and looked back at my previous Bullnose certification labels, and the 1994 F150 currently in my garage, and a bunch of others I had on file, and the total number was always MUCH higher than the front capacity number...but they're ALL half tons, from 1980-1994. Interesting. Technically, the total number should always be higher than the front by itself...so why your 8-lug trucks are not labelled as such...who knows. Maybe they're typos. Be curious to see a certification label from a Chassis Cab truck. Interesting. You are right in that the total number should always be greater than the front axle number. Otherwise the rear axle number would have to be a negative number, meaning it is already overloaded when it comes from the factory. For example, Big Blue's front has a reserve of 403 lbs and the total truck has a reserve of 157 lbs. So that seems to say that the rear axle has a reserve of -246 lbs.

I think it is fair to say we aren't up tight. Instead we want to have fun but still provide support.

Thanks!

I back it up every Sunday, so if you are going to delete it maybe wait until Monday to do it? Anyway, I sent you and email. Good hunting!

Ok, I've made you an admin, but will email you with some info on how editing works. But be aware that you also have the power to delete the whole forum.

Welcome to the Bullnose forum where we chase rabbits all the time. Or most of the time?

Chris - Would you be willing to see if you can figure out how to fix it? I can make you an admin, which will let you examine or even edit the code that runs most of the forum. I say "most" because there is some core code that we cannot get to. And the code is in Nabble, which is a one-off code. But it isn't that difficult to understand.