Gary Lewis

Microsoft has introduced Copilot that is supposed to be a whizz-bang AI tool to let you explore, learn, etc. So tonight I thought I'd give it a try and posed this question to it: "What are the most popular forums for the Ford bullnose trucks?" And here are the results: Note that there's a disclaimer that says: Given what it said about me I'd not only not go to the bank with it, I'd doubt it at every opportunity!

Good haul! And replacing the joints is a good idea.

Yes, it does look good! 2 gallons? WOW!

Have you installed a stock diesel tach cluster or are you considering an aftermarket tach? IIRC the alternator pulley is 3:1 for diesels. How many pulses does the stator output for each alternator revolution? As I recall I had to find a pump housing with the boss for the tach pickup (actually I swiped the housing and pickup+wiring from a wreck) Our page at Documentation/Electrical/Alternators says the 420/IDI has a 2.18:1 ratio - although our 460's have a 3.0:1. I don't understand that because the diesel doesn't rev as high as a 460, but whatever.

I suspect that it was factory and that Ford re-used that connector for the lights. But that's a guess. Anyway, I think a later, water-proof connector is the way to go.

Right, the S wire isn't used on a diesel. But the EVTM says that the "Voltage at S is one half the voltage at B". Given that I believe it is a half-wave rectified AC voltage so will look like the signal below and go from 0V to probably battery voltage. Is that capable of running a diesel tach?

Locks for the tailgate aren't easy to find nor do on a Bullnose. In fact, I couldn't find one when I put the alarm system on Big Blue, but maybe I missed something? Subsequently I've thought that one could put an electric lock in the tail light cavity that engages the tailgate, but I've not actually tried to do that. So I don't know if that would be possible.

I'm lost. Have been reading the mail, but have no suggestions. However, unsoldering integrated circuits isn't easy. It is hard to get every pin de-soldered, even using "solder wick", and you have to have all of them "clean" in order to get the chip out. Plus you don't want to heat the legs very much or you can damage the chip. It isn't easy.

If I couldn't determine where the smoke is coming from I think I'd wash the engine down to get it as clean as I could, and then start it and watch for leaks. But the areas I'd concentrate on would be around the valve covers, both on the outside near the exhaust manifolds, and on the inside near the intake. The exhausts obviously get very hot and will create smoke quickly, but the heat riser passage in the intake manifold get hot as well. So you need that area very clean.

Sorry, I don't know.

I thought about the soft covers a lot back when I bought. But we often put valuable stuff in the bed on long trips. So I went with a hard rolling cover to protect those things. But if you don't put expensive stuff back there on long trips then the soft cover would sure be cheaper, easier, and still very beneficial.

Congratulations!!! That initial firing is one of the best feelings in the world. And your process seems like it worked out very well, even the dropped washer. Well done! And your decision to start with a bit less initial lead is a good one. You can always add a bit more if you find that it can take it. (There's a process to do that, as explained on our page at Documentation/Electrical/Ignition and the Instructions tab followed by the Crane Cams Instructions tab.) Have you driven it yet? How does it feel vs the "old" engine? I'd think the smaller head would up the compression ratio enough to be felt.

Well, so much for the theory that I can find the part # in the MPC. Using our new info at Documentation/Electrical/Connectors I find that there is no black 4-pin "sleeve" that matches your usage. There are seven black 4-pin sleeves listed, but one is for the windshield wiper, one for the warning buzzer, one for the little Ranger, and three for 1987 and later trucks. And the "C321" on your connector is confusing as C321 is the connector from the wiring harness to the DS-II ignition module. I've looked in the pigtails catalog and didn't see it. But you may be able to find it yourself as I may have missed it. Go to the page at Documentation/Electrical/Connectors and then the Wiring Pigtail Kits tab. Pick either of the two catalogs and go through it looking at "4 cavity connectors" for one that looks like yours.

Let's start small, Bill. I've already proven I cannot find all ID #'s in the cross ref as I can't find the one for Goose. Close, but this ain't hand grenades, and any little change can be a completely different part. So if you give me the ID #, # of terminals, color, and usage for a few then I'll attempt to find them.

Zachary - I can do that, but we were actually asking that you start a new thread in the New Members Start Here folder instead of tacking onto someone else's. But apparently our instructions aren't very good - sorry. The reason we want you to go to the New Members Start Here folder itself, rather than a post within it, is because we have our guidelines posted there. We hold everyone to those guidelines so want you to have ever opportunity to read them. So if you'll go there, click the New Topic link and create your own introduction then I'll put you on the map. That way you'll have had an opportunity to have seen, and hopefully read, the guidelines. Ok?

I didn't think that you were suggesting that. I was just saying that it would be quite a task as there are a lot of bits of info that don't connect easily - if at all. One thing we might do is when we have our hands on a connector to report what the ID # is. Then I could convert that to part number and update the MPC page.

I also like the top emblem best. As for the hood insulation kit, I can see Ford wanting some money or concessions for use of the logo, which probably explains why they are no longer available. But having your own logo on it would be cool. And if you are going to go with those lights, which are cool as well, then no logo or your own logo would be best as there aren't that many places under the hood for the lights to recess into. So you'll have to coordinate lights and logos. And the tilt switch is a good idea, but you may want another switch as well. Big Blue's hood is open 90% of the time when he's in the shop, so I keep the trouble light disconnected at the connection near the brake booster. But it would be easier if there was a toggle switch. Speaking of that connection, you could use it for powering your lights. It is fused already and should be there on your truck.

That should be pretty handy, Dane. I really like the covers that allow you to use the bed. Mine rolls up into the container in the front, so shortens the bed a bit, but still allows you to put longer things under the container. Not as capable as yours, but a lot better than the hard covers that only open at a small angle. Don't think I'd like those.

Someone might be able to piece the pigtail info together with those part numbers via the ID #'s on the connectors and the cross reference. But it would be a real challenge. Anyway, welcome.

"R" is the little Ranger. Perhaps Haystack can find some markings on his tank that will help us.

Right. It would be easy to put the connector on the sender and read from the red/white wire to ground. The sender should be between 12 and 72 ohms, and probably close to 72.

I'm don't have a lot of electrical knowledge. The cluster is out of the truck, I need to replace the shift. Could I put 12 volts DC to the red & white wire in the plug that attaches to the cluster and check the connector that attaches to the sending unit for 12V? If I understand what you are asking, then yes. I think you are saying that you'll put 12v on the R/W wire in the dash at C208A, with the cluster disconnected, and check at the sending unit for 12v. That will work. BUT, make sure the wire isn't on the sending unit your may mess it up.

I guess I could use a 6-volt lantern battery? Gary, what do you use to obtain 5.4 volts? I use a lab power supply that is adjustable. But you could use a 6v battery for testing. However, you really shouldn't need to do that. As has been explained, if you put a test light where the sending unit is you should see the light flash if the wiring is good. (The flashing is because the ICVR is just a chopper, not a voltage regulator. And if it is flashing then grounding the wire should send the gauge to full scale pretty quickly when the key is on. I replaced the wonky ICVR with an adjustable voltage regulator, as you can see on the page at Documentation/Electrical/ICVR. However, if your other gauges are working correctly then it isn't the ICVR.

Jim - I'm struggling to know what to do about the C&C fuel tank. My issue is that I'm not seeing an entry in the MPC for them. What am I missing? Here's all of the fuel tank listings:

Wow! That is nice, but 'SPENSIVE! $429?!?!?!?