Gary Lewis

That’s a good test. But if it still falters you should look closely at the wiring of the ignition pickup in the dizzy. Then consider replacing the pickup itself.

Jonathan - I think it is a good idea to capture it, but wonder if we shouldn't clear that with gentleman first. I realize that we've captured it in the forum, but placing it on a web page seems different somehow. And, thinking about where to put it, what about creating another tab called something like "Tips" on the ZF5 page in Driveline/Transmissions/Manual Transmissions/ZF5? David - Would you ask him if that's ok?

Ahhh shucks! But, if you don't mind, would you email me as to why you chose us over FTE? I don't want to start bashing anyone on here, but I would like to understand what drives people to us to ensure we keep whatever aspect that is.

Ford Truck Enthusiasts. Another, very large, forum and one where several of us "met". I used to be a regular on there, assuming anyone with a Ford affliction should be called "regular", but I started this forum and only go back to find bits of info someone needs. EDIT: 4 minutes late. David beat me. Oh well, what else is new. Well done, David!

I would think that dampness would cause low-level, meaning low voltage or low current, electrical problems rather than high current ones. And the fuel pump should be a high current device. In other words, if it is running then I don't think fuel pressure is the problem. If you have fuel pressure then I'd bet that you can ignore the fuel pump part of the problem solving. But I'll defer to Bill on that as well as the rest of the questions.

I forgot that ....... "reason". (I almost called it an "excuse", but decided I shouldn't. )

Have you found this? Engines/385 Series

I've heard that 16.5's are getting hard to find, so I'm glad I have 16's. But you do have a spare - right?

Chris doesn't have "a" short cut. He's figured out several of them - apparently because he doesn't believe his GPS. One was to take the business route into Ponca City, wherein he got lost. He called me from a Conoco gas station I used to drive by on my way to work every day, so I told him how to come on to Skiatook. So, maybe flying IS better for him?

A lot of guys are running Rotella, and I've heard/read good things about it. However, I've read fairly recently that even it may be seeing a reduction in ZDDP, so I'd suggest further research. I've done a bit of reading have found a couple of references to the T-series of Rotella, but you have to make sure to tell your browser to give you the latest findings first or you'll be reading old news: HAMB: https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/zddp-again.1057854/page-3 NASIOC: https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2785176

Nice looking truck! I hadn't seen the "turbine wheels" in 8-lug. I kinda like them. As for the Explorer, that was a limited-time offering each year, and was put on top of the other package, like your XL or my XLT. And there were 4 levels: A, B, C, & D. Take a look at the brochures here: Literature/1985 Literature. Also, note that you have an "early" 1985. That's easy to tell because of your side trim, which was apparently discontinued later in the year. Notice the difference between the two brochures. I see that you have the good towing mirrors. Big Blue's mirrors work, but yours are out further and will be much better as they'll let you see what's close to the back of the trailer.

That's right, I did. Hmmm, so far 4 votes for "another forum", which I assume means that someone posted about the Bullnose Forum. And one vote for "other" - obviously Bill. Keep on voting, please. This lets me know what works.

You will need zinc (ZDDP) in the oil with a flat tappet cam, so if the Amsoil is loaded with it then that may be a good option. And 10W is better in the cold than 15W. As for synthetic in and old truck, I don't see a problem. My understanding is that the main advantages to synthetic are that its viscosity improvers are inherent so don't go away with use the way that they do in non-synthetic oil. Second, that it can handle the heat much better, so doesn't break down. Third that it has less friction. So I think the Amsoil should be a good solution. But, it is more expensive. And surely Mobil has a 10W or even a 5W in the same oil that has been in the engine. That would be less expensive, but the Amsoil would probably be better. On the filter, will that big of a filter fit on the 460? I may want to go that way, but things are pretty tight with the big engine.

I'm curious how people have found us, meaning the Bullnose Forum. So I've created a new poll - one that has no end date so that over time we can determine the trends. Please vote, and if you vote Other then let me know what that "other" was.

Welcome! Your '85 is very similar to my '85, although yours has 4 doors and mine has 4wd. We can diagnose things, like the idle speed, in another thread. But, you may have a fast idle linkage hanging up. As for the oil leak, you have the oil cooler in front of the radiator, right? (Later ones were oil-to-water.) I'm guessing that adapter's gasket is bad. But it seems like you have a good plan to replace it. On the fuel situation, check the biggest problem I've seen has been with the hose material that couldn't stand the ethanol. On Dad's truck one hose was so gooey that I wadded it up in a ball and it stayed. But, it was leaking air in while the engine was running, killing the pump's vacuum, and leaking gas out when the engine was off. However, you should have the nylon lines, so shouldn't have hose problems. As for the map, you are on it. I was tempted to put you at Tower Grove Park since that's where the house is my son and DiL sold yesterday. But, the map is really just to get a good idea of where people are, so unless you don't want to be shown essentially watching the Cards that may do.

That looks to be either the 1980-81 "black with mesh weave" or the 1982-83 "mesh weave" shown in Interior/Instrument & Radio Bezels.

I think David was just funning. But, if you want to fly in I can pick you up at the airport - assuming it isn't the day of the show. (Or, for that matter, Friday afternoon very late. We are having a lot of people over to the house and I'll be picking up the Mac's BBQ, etc.) However, you would miss those side trips. Like the one off US60 on 9 Mile Road that did dump you out at Ralston. Then across the river and you picked up OK20. And in the Arkansas river bottom you did get into some rather large insects.

Especially when all you can see out of the window is 2000' below you.

David - Thanks. Didn't realize that mine was so short. But, maybe the Bullnose trucks didn't use all of those?

Yes, fresh starts can be good. But sad that you had to do it.

If you aren't going for a full restoration, and especially if you don't have the AIR pump, then I'd simplify things, as I've outlined here: Underhood/Vacuum Systems. As for connections to the carb, the YFA's I've been around, like David's, don't have full manifold vacuum on a port. In other words, the port that his has does not have vacuum at idle, which is the way I like to plumb the vacuum advance on the distributor, but doesn't get very high at large throttle openings. So you are stuck either running manifold vacuum or the weak vacuum from the carb.

David - Would you check to see if I have all of those captured here: Underhood/Vacuum Systems/Vacuum Diagrams. (You have to click twice on Vacuum Diagrams, which probably isn't the best approach.)

I don't know, although Dave/Fuzzface may know as his vacuum diagram looks just like yours. But, is this a full-on restoration? In other words, do you need to put it back exactly like it was?

Yes! I put brown ones in Big Blue and, while they don't match, they are a big improvement over the droopy blue ones. I've heard that shimming the springs in them removes a lot of the droop, but I think the later ones are the way to go unless you are truly restoring.

I still have Bullnose blue sun visors, but if it were me I'd do as I've done and get the 1987 and later visors. The outboard end screws in where the earlier ones go, but the inboard ends have a clip that keeps them from sagging. I find that to be a huge improvement.