Gary Lewis

Ok, Mark is an XL and Chris is an L. Got it. Thanks.

Nathan and yes I'm in Greeley. Nice to meet you. This is the truck totaled by hail. I thought about leaving the pump off also, but it honestly runs much smoother with it on. Had a rough idle and seemed a bit down on power. As much as I'd like to get another Bullnose, I also found a 1968 Falcon Futura that is in really good shape and in my budget..... Nathan - That Futura would be a cool ride. We won't hold it against you, and please don't go away. Chris - A $5000 front end alignment???? Most of these trucks don't cost that much! What all did you have done? Bill - Thanks for the pic! Helps a bunch. But, another question: Was thinking through things today and looking at your pics. There are 33,299 fasteners for the waterpump, and 112 more for the timing cover. But, I don't see any need to pull any of that when I convert to EFI, so is there a compelling reason to change out the bolts? The water pump nor the timing cover leak, and if I'm not changing out the cam they don't need to come off. Yes, the front main seal leaks, but that can be replaced w/o pulling anything. Thoughts?

I know too many Millennials to believe that all of them are that way. And I know too many Ford truck ..... "nuts" to believe that all of them (us?) are that way. So I'm at a loss. But I'm glad for y'all.

The factory spec's show a "16" rear diff to be a 3.50. Big Blue is running 3.55's and 33" tires and still seems to be 2300 R's at 65 MPH. So that's what you'd be looking at as well with 33's. The tires on Big Blue is wide and it is pretty easy to rub on a tight turn. So I don't think I'd want to go bigger than that. But I had 31's on Rusty and they didn't rub very often, although I don't know how the offset on the wheels compared. Bottom Line: I think you can go to 33's, but I'd keep the width as narrow as you can. That keeps the rubbing down and minimizes the friction with the road. But 31's are a sure thing and may be the best compromise.

Sorry. The warning light is intermittent. In that case it may be the "proportioning valve", which is really the pressure differential valve. It is really just a piston that is moved one way or the other if there is a pressure differential between the front or rear system. And if it goes to one end or the other it grounds the lead to the warning light. Usually the valve itself doesn't go bad, although I have had them stick. But what usually happens is that the pressure does fall in one end or the other. It could be that you have air in the system. Or low fluid levels caused by a leak. Or, a bad master. But an intermittent warning light is probably not the valve.

The nickel/copper stuff is what I've been told to use. Haven't done it, but bought some stainless pre-bent stuff and had to re-bend every piece so won't do that again.

Just want to make sure I understand - is it the rear brake light that is intermittent, or the brake warning light?

And we are sure glad you did. And while there are LOTS of Facebook pages that say "Bullnose", you can't find them via a Google search. But, you will find us!

That's an interesting approach. I'll bet it makes a huge difference in the UV light that gets through as well as the heat. As explained to me years ago when Conoco was in the plastics business, UV and heat are the two main enemies of plastic. Heat bakes the plasticizer out, which is what gets deposited on the inside of your windows on summer days. That makes the plastic brittle. And UV breaks the plastic down chemically, which is what happens to the tops of the door panels as well as the dash pads at the speaker holes. So something like 303 that is supposed to keep the UV from going through will help. But the real key is to prevent the UV from coming into the cab in the first place. And, if the same thing keeps the temp down all the better.

Very true, Ron. So there's a neat fix for the speaker hole.

Added the gaskets to Exterior/Exterior Mirrors on the part #'s tag. Perhaps you can find a NOS set?

I think I'd try Loctite, like blue, before I ground something up. As for the gasket, I'll see if I can find them......

Glad it helps. Make sure you tell us how it goes. And if there are upgrades needed in the how-to then I can easily do that.

Excellent, guys! I'll keep track and then place an order with some room for late-comers late this week or early next. Keep those cards and letters coming in!

Noid light. That was a new term to me, so I Googled it. Turns out Amazon has a one. But, does Ford port-injection use the Bosch injectors?

Ok, I think we have a number of things nailed down. But I need to know sizes from those of you who are coming. (Vince, I got yours) Or, from any of you that can't come but want to buy a shirt. (Note: I have been planning to pay for the shirts for those who come and help, but can't make that offer for everyone else.) It looks like the shirts will run about $10 each, but that's a guess. First, my friend that is doing the graphics has found a Ford script that is not copyrighted, so we've settled on this for the back of the shirt, except in white: And I've selected this t-shirt and this color: That's to fairly well match the banners: Hope that works for everyone. Comments welcome, but I need to pull the trigger on this ASAP.

I'm guessing that the idea is to weld a bit on one end of the fishplate, say maybe an inch, and then move to the other end and weld an inch. Keep alternating back and forth, but using different spots to move to each time to spread the heat. You don't want to get it too hot and warp it and, while it is warped, nail the fishplate down. That would cause it to be in a bind when cool, and then all of the force will be on one of the parts instead of all of them. I've seen Scott use a wet rag or towel to cool a part (of mine) he was welding. He laid the towel on it before welding so the water could provide cooling from the start, rather than hitting it with water after it was hot and shocking the part.

I have 2 tanks, Gary. I plugged in one of those aftermarket power-part duplicators and have it duct-taped to the ahstray: I have a CB radio taped to the console in similar haphazard fashion, not sure if I'm gonna keep this setup or not. From what I can tell, NOBODY uses the things anymore: The fix-a-flat stuff didn't work, that spare tire is dead. I need to find a 16x8 8-lug steelie somewhere. Didn't realize your second tank is working. Twice the miles! Let's see, if yours are 16 and 19 gallons then you have 35 gallons and close to 350 miles. If your mid-ship is a 19 then 38 gallons and 380 miles. At about 675 miles total you could, conceivably, make it with one fill up. As for the power port, you plan to run lots of things? Spare tire? A must!

That's why I'm doing this - so people can do their own research. Glad it is working. I grew tired of answering the same questions and decided the better way to do it was to put the documentation out there and let people find their own answers. Works MUCH better.

Added info and an illustration on the front hubs and rotors for 4wd trucks here: Driveline/4wd Front Hubs & Rotors.

For whatever reason the pic is coming through fine now, so I took it out of my post. And I can easily download them from the page, but thanks. Roger on the water pump bolts. All understood. As for the intake bolt, where it goes should be obvious when I put it together, but it wouldn't hurt to add the pic. So, please. Thanks a bunch!

Ok, the info is up on Driveline/4WD Front Hubs & Rotors.

I don't know Timken or other part numbers, but perhaps the Ford #'s will help. First, you have to find your axle's parts list number, and I make that out to be #14. And here is #14's list of parts. (Don't ask what 8A 1202 means. I don't know.) I'll see if I can't get this put up on the website.

Bill - That helps a bunch. Thanks! Several things. First, on the water pump bolts, are the all the same size and flanged-head, but just different lengths? When you say "Left side requires two short and one long, one short one is for the coil bracket" you are saying these need to be studs. Right? And on the right side I see one short and one long stud. Correct? Yes, that really helps.

Yes, additional opinions are one of the many benefits of a forum. And then there's continuity, meaning people can scroll back and see previous things that have been said about the problem or question. And searchability, meaning that you can search the forum for key words or phrases. For instance, you could find what Jonathan is doing to his truck's frame if you didn't know. And, on and on. Ok, you've convinced me.