Gary Lewis

Why not put it here? It is cool, as you said, so let's let everyone see it:

Usually works that way, but glad you found one.

Good to know, Shaun. Thanks!

Wow, that looks good! But seems to be like Chickenman - "He's everywhere! He's everywhere!"

Good points, Jim. But there's a special thread for my Sky's Offroad Design Super Duty RSK Install adventure. You can find bits and pieces of it in Big Blue's Transformation, but the Sky thread has the nitty gritty.

Email sent to the two of you.

Cory - Thanks! I see you've responded while I was responding. Powerman - I'm sorry if I got you the wrong part number. Maybe you can figure out what the right number is by going to our page at Documentation/Interior/Steering Columns And Steering Wheels. Then go to the Illustrations tab, scroll down to the right illustration, and get the correct "base part number". Then go to the Part Numbers tab and look up the full part number. As an example, that part's base part number might be 7228. But you really need the full part number, which might be E0TZ 7228-D. And as Cory said, those aren't available.

From what little I know it isn't easy as the F250/350 2wd frames are different than the 4wd frames. You should read this thread.

I've always used an ink/pen eraser, rubberized mild abrasive (similar to Craytex or Peco, the toy train track cleaner) We used to be able to get the slip on ones that fit a pen like a pencil eraser but I don't know if they still exist. Yep, I use an eraser as well. But stay away from the end of the trace as you might snag it and peel the copper off the flex.

Looking good, Ryan! With those marker lights and lights on the mirrors you'll look like an 18-wheeler coming.

:nabble_laughing-25-x-25_orig: Years back I remember laying on ice to weld a front sway bar mount back into Alex's Mustang. The wind was drifting snow under the car and when the shielding gas got blown away the ensuing sparks set my greasy sweat shirt on fire. It is 29F here and I was thinking that 72F would be plenty warm. But I will admit I've not welded outside and on body panels at that temp, which probably take just the right heat setting in order to flow but not blow. So I hope today will be "just right".

That is a bummer, Larry. But might the second one of yours you mentioned work for a short stint since we are into winter? I'd think as cool as it is getting you really wouldn't need much radiator or a fan shroud?

So you have it fixed?

Good plan, Stan.

I don’t, but I’d Google the part number - D60Z 3511-B

It should not fit your truck. As shown below the 1980 and later trucks with a manual transmission and a fixed, meaning non-tilt, wheel take a D60Z 3511-B part. But the 1973-79 master parts catalog says a 78-79 F-Series with a non-tilt wheel and manual transmission takes a D80Z 3511-A. Sorry.

Well done, Jeff!

It is so nice when you find someone to work with! Good luck!

Shaun - How did you recreate the lip? That looks like quite a challenge.

Thanks Gary. This is excellent. I'll search here first in the future. I think I don't have slack in my cable. One more question, there's a white wire on the bottom of the cluster that goes up the steering column. How do I disconnect it? I suspect the white "wire" is the shift indication cable. The outer sheath is brittle and easily broken, so be careful. But if I remember correctly you have a single screw that positions the wire on the steering column, and when you remove that you can take the loop on the end of the cable off of the pin on the steering column and the wire is free.

Check out the Speedo Cable tab on our page at Documentation/Driveline/Speedometer Cables & Gears: https://www.garysgaragemahal.com/speedometer-gears-cables--sensors.html

Perfect. So just the Mongoose needs to be dedicated. I’m looking at a Surface Pro 9 tablet and it has two USB-C/Thunderport 4’s, so I can put a USB-C/USB-A converter on one port and a port expander on the other. Thanks!

Some of you may remember a problem I had where I bricked the EEC-V computer on Big Blue and had to have Core Tuning log on and fix it. Turns out I was trying to use two USB-A ports on the tablet I had then to run the Binary Editor dongle, the Mongoose cable, and logging connector. And to do that I was using a USB-A port expander, to get the three USB-A ports needed, but something in that setup was not fast enough and apparently the write to the ECU was corrupted. After that I bought this Dell laptop with three USB-A ports and all was well. But now the hinge is failing on the lid to this laptop and instead of repairing it, if that could be done, I'm considering replacing it. And I have discovered that finding another laptop or tablet with three USB-A ports is very difficult if not impossible. So I have a plan I want to run past y'all. I'm finding that there are plenty of machines with two USB-C/Thunderbolt 4 ports, and there are good port expanders that create multiple USB-A ports from a single USB-C port. So my thinking is: Logging: When logging, which requires three USB-A ports, I'll run a port expander off of one USB-C port and all should be well since there's no writing to the ECU. Writing: When I write to the ECU I'll disconnect the logging cable and use both USB-ports through a USB-C/USB-A converter for the Binary Editor dongle and the Mongoose cable. Does this sound like a reasonable plan? What am I missing?

Looking good!!! You are making excellent progress.

The one guy I am trying to get in touch with was the first guy I delt with, his website makes it sound like he suspended remote tuning but his remote tuning is a laptop that you give him access to via internet and he will make changes to your sniper while you are driving as he will be able to see what is going on from the sniper program. I hope so on the emblems, I emailed the guy selling them if he happens to know at least for the first one if its a 1980s/1990s styled emblem it seems to be so to me based off the color scheme. I think that would be the one I would go with as I think it would look better on the radio bezel where the XL/XLT/XLS emblem would normally go. Only other option would be to try and find a XLS emblem to put on the dash and have the truck painted in two tone like it left the factory then add the XLS to make my own but I really dont want to do that. My big thing is with the Ford Racing valve covers I really think it would complete the package to have the dash say "Ford Racing" in some fashion. Another option was to have a rectangular emblem that says Ford Racing or Powered by Ford Racing that would fit under the 150 in the F150 emblem like the OE XL/XLT emblems did. But that would require the emblem to also look period as well. That sounds like a good way to have the system tuned. I had Core Tuning do that when I had a problem with Big Blue and they fixed it easily. And while you can log data while running you can't make changes then on an EEC-V. So his approach should work well. On the emblems, I think the idea of placing one in the radio bezel that matches the valve covers is the best approach.