Gary Lewis

Sounds like you have it mapped out. Is that a Saginaw pump?

I'll leave it up as it shows the sales price - I think.

Interesting. Well preserved, but that's a SERIOUS welder. Don't think I could use that. But it would be nice in a museum.

Yipes! If there's that much rust that is visible, what's it like where you can't see. But it does have a tool box.

Ok guys, 3 out of 3 can't be wrong. PLEASE read through it and see if it makes sense to you: Bullnose FAQ's. Also, click on the Wheel Application Chart link on that page and read the explanation I gave on the Driveline/Wheels page, Application tab. Does that combo seem to do it?

How quickly did the High Res doc open? If it opens fast enough then we may not need the Medium Res one. (I'm not a good test as it is loading off my Google drive.)

Guys - I need some help. For the second time in a few days someone has raised the issue of what wheel bolt pattern an F100 uses. Almost four years ago I ran this to ground on FTE: Discussed in this thread And explained in this post I said in that post that we need to get it documented somewhere, but I don't think it has been. And, as the document king, you'd think I would have. But, now that I've had to find that post twice in a few days I'm now determined to document it. However, the question is where? Here are some thoughts: On the Driveline/Wheels page, possibly on the Applications tab at the top. In addition, I should also point out an omission in that table, which doesn't show the 5 x 4.5" wheels used in 1980 and '81, but Bill/Numberdummy said they were in the above thread. However, this seems an obscure spot. In the soon-to-be Wheel section on the Engine & Driveline tab on the Year-To-Year Differences page. But again, that's kinda obscure. On a new tab, maybe labeled F100 Bolt Pattern on the Bullnose FAQ's page. As said, these seem to be obscure places to store what is a seemingly frequent question. So, what suggestions do you have? Please!?!?

Let's do a Take 2: http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/1986-f-series-pickups.html I realized that the medium resolution jpg files that I used on the 1986 brochure make it hard to read some of the small print, like the notes on pages 13 and 18. But the high res pdf file that I have is slow to load and would be a pain if just looking casually at the pics. So I made a compromise - I added tabs for Medium Resolution and High Resolution. And the way the page works is that when you first load it up it should always be on Medium Resolution tab and, therefore, load quickly. But, if you really want the nitty gritty detail you can click the High Res tab. So, please take a look and let me know what you think so I know how to do this going forward. Does this approach give you quick loading? Does it get you the detail if you need it?

Gary, I'm wondering if the ones I need are the two 1984 numbers in the middle...one being 2.65" and the other 1.81". The bosses on these covers are quite thick...it wouldn't surprise me if the standard bolts are 1.81" the bosses themselves must be 3/4" thick or more... By the way, what does AR mean in the quantity section? You can measure and see what you think you need. But I think the really long ones have threads that match the adjoining bolt but have studs above for the spark plug wire holder. I think AR means "as required". Apparently some took more studs than other applications and then you'd need fewer bolts.

Excellent, thanks for the confirmation Lariat. The 1986-1993 bolts look like they'd be too short...but if I find something that works, I'll for sure pass the word along. That raises a question though....what are you using to hold your wires? Something else? I really like the factory dividers on the valve cover bolts. While I have your ear, I do have a related Fox question... I also purchased a 1983 Fox 5.0 air cleaner assembly, and in my efforts to restore the plain aluminum cover, removed the original black stripe decal. I ordered a new one (two actually) from Mustangs unlimited, but it doesn't fit...it is just a little too small unfortunately. Do you have another supplier to recommend? LMR did have them, but they were showing out of stock until further notice (last time I looked). Maybe I can help? Here's what the master parts catalog says for the valve covers, with F being for Mustangs and J being for Capris: And here's the illustration for the engine and valve covers. Notice that it shows two different bolts to hold the valve covers on: 387549 and 387883: And here's the catalog entry for the valve cover bolts. The two #'s listed above are highlighted in yellow. Notice that there's one that is 5/8" long and another that is 1.81" long. But then there are the ones circled in blue that are for the 85/86 Mustangs (F) and Mark VI and VII (K). They are 1" and 2.14" long and you need 8 of one and 4 of the other, presumably the ones to hold the plug wire separators. Maybe you can find those part numbers?

Jonathan - I'm not worried about the thread being derailed. But the comments might be easier to find in another thread. If you start one with the appropriate title then I'll move the posts into that one. Or, you can using your admin powers: Create the new thread and get its Permalink Go to the post you want to move, click More and then Move Post, paste the Permalink into the box, and click Move. And then you can delete this post if you want.

PSOMs are common in JYs, so get the regular 85mph version. The captions in this photo album explain almost everything you never wanted to know about it: https://supermotors.net/getfile/76023/thumbnail/cluster-front.jpg I did that to my '83 back when I got sick of fighting speedo cables & gears, with tire changes, and low vacuum to the cruise servo... Today I added a 1986 F-Series brochure: Literature/1986

Since Jim hasn't checked in for a while I'll say it - progress is good! But, it is a shame about the trunk lid and wheels. Do you need those? Can you find replacements? Looks like you found new isolators for the bumper. And the shocks are cool. I think Jeep is still using them. The fans seem to fit nicely. But does the computer run them?

That's an interesting story. I'm guessing that the original buy said "I'll take this truck but with that seat." And since there are only 4 bolts holding it in, the dealership said "Sure!" But that build sheet would have been a bear to read. Dad's looked like that and it was a huge pain.

As an update, David found the '80 and '86 light truck facts books for me, and as it turned out that dealer also had an '85 that hadn't been listed yet. So those are in the mail to me and in a week or so I can get all but the '84 entries in the engine table filled in. And, I'll add the engine info from those books to the relevant pages. But a lot more work needs to be done to get the Y2Y page cleaned up and usable. Fortunately I'll have some time to do that during the World Series as I find baseball to be a sport that can be "watched" while doing other things - like . Anyway, please review the engine table and associated engine pages and let me know if they work for you. Year-To-Year Differences and the Engine & Driveline tab.

Oh yes! Thanks. Did I call around here in Tulsa? There are three, I think, 4wd places that deal with used parts.

Thanks! And invite him to join?

Jonathan - That's going to be a big help. Do you know Brian Jordan (The Grampulator)? I'd like to put his document on the website, but would like to have his permission. Can we contact him?

What part is that, Jonathan? Refresh my memory.

Perhaps it was originally designed to keep fumes out of the HVAC. But it does work to keep water out of the engine compartment, or at least off things in the center of it. When I got Big Blue it had a really bad cowl seal and corrosion everywhere. Water had been pooling on the aluminum intake and corroding it. The aluminum Eddy carb was corroded. And many other things were as well. I cleaned most of the things, including the carb and some of the intake. And then installed a cowl seal using garage door weatherstripping, as shown in the above link. No more corrosion, and the truck sits out.

Wow! That IS getting around. Blew a water pump? I've never had one go out abruptly as they always gave me some kind of notice. Bolts breaking are to be expected on an old pump. But I thought his engine was fairly new. Oh well, he sure seems to land on his feet. By the way, just sent you an email.

I'm glad the site and the guys on the forum are helping. That's why it and we are here. But don't go to the bank on my advice. The first thing I'd do is to put a timing light on the engine and see if the advance changes when you rev it up. If it doesn't I may well be right. But you do need to check.

Based on the way the NP208 tab turned out, I upgraded the BW1345 tab on the Driveline/Transfer Cases page. It now includes the illustration and parts list from the master parts catalog and both Ford's rebuild/repair instructions from the factory shop manual as well as Borg-Warner's service manual.

I'm glad it works. So I used the NP208 page as a model and upgraded the BW1345 documentation on the Driveline/Transfer Case page. But in the case of the 1345, we have both Ford's rebuild instructions, but also Borg-Warner's repair manual.

Yep, good luck! I'm along for the ride, and it looks like it'll be a good one.