Gary Lewis

Good to know. And now we have a page on switches: Electrical/Switches. It is far from done, but at least it has the turn signal/hazard switch numbers.

I agree with your analysis. Since the hazard connection circled in blue works, you know the wires are intact, the bulbs are good, and the grounds are good. So it has to be the connection in the switch circled in red. As for a source, I don't know of one. Lots of people seem to be having turn signal switch problems, but it doesn't appear that I have the switches listed. I'll be back.... Oops, I forgot the diagram.

Welcome! I like that "With your help..." And, we will help you. But you'll be surprised how quickly you learn. Where's home? We have a member's map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map) and I could add you if you'd like.

I'm not sure what happened, but I think the link should be: https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-OEM-Ford-Power-Steering-Return-Hose-E3TZ-3A713-F-Ford-F150-F250-F350-1980-97-/152988645573 And here's what it fits:

That is a very nice price. Unfortunately I already have those NOS for Dad's truck. But, I could use a pair for the rear. They'd be E2TZ 1130-C.

You didn't ask the guy to see the VIN????? Where's your attention to detail?

Yes, probably an early '85. But, there was some discussion of late about that trim being used on late '85 and maybe even '86 F250's. However, my bet would have been with you - early '85.

Good write up. Thanks! How does it sound?

Not long ago someone posted a similar one that was, I think, in the Pacific North West. I did some quick math about what the cost of fuel would be to get it back given that top end was something like 35 MPH. It would cost about what the truck cost. But, it would be cool, albeit not very useful. Single cab and essentially no bed. Worst of all worlds, but still cool!

Dyn - Good info, and the pics in the post will be even better. Cory - There are three aspects to sound treatment: Sound deadening: This is what Dynamat and similar things do, and it is usually done with mass, and most effectively done with a flexible mass. The mass lowers the resonant frequency of the panel, thereby reducing the sound transmission of frequencies above that point. And the flexing creates friction, and that turns the vibration into heat and dissipates it. Sound isolation: This is done by placing a soft, flexible material between two panels. The firewall insulator is a good example of that as it has a soft material between the firewall and the black, rigid panel. That lets the firewall vibrate and the sound waves get absorbed in the soft material and the black panel doesn't vibrate, as much, so the waves aren't propagated. Sound absorption: This is done by the soft material, like the headliner, carpet, and seats. It works best on high frequencies, but makes the room/cab "dead" such that it doesn't echo/reverberate. It takes all three aspects to create a complete package. And to answer your question about the floor, yes you should. But as Mark said, you only need partial coverage. The spots that have the least reinforcement need the most, so there's no need to put some right at the edges where the next panel attaches as it can't vibrate there. But the flat spots are the main targets. You could also put some on the rear wall of the cab as that vibrates from sound as well. And if you are going to use a rubber mat, then placing some isolation material between it and the floor turns the mat into the isolation barrier.

Welcome home! Wow, that's a lot of travel. Sure glad you did it safely. What's next?

Glad you found us! We will be happy to help, when the time comes.

The harder plastic may be fine with the hard media, but I switch to walnut hulls for plastic after that experience. Glad you got it back in. As for the heat shield, I don't think you'll need it. And, "the Lord willing" is the right attitude.

I stand corrected Pete. I said in this thread (and others) that my radio delete truck had NO wiring provisions for a radio. Well, I did find a radio plug today, tucked away on the glovebox side of dash. It is the power wire for a radio. One yellow wire for IGN on power, and a light blue/red stripe wire for radio illumination. However, there are no speaker wires of any kind. Oddly, the 15amp radio fuse is there as well. That's all, I was just updating this to correct my previous comments. Hey Quarterwave, did you ever get a stereo installed in your radio delete truck? Curious if you installed door speakers. Thanks for the clarification.

I agree with your math on the force on the swing arm. But I don't have a lot of choices - at least few I'm aware of. Here's the one I've got drawn, which is a 1" thick by 1" wide stop with a 45 degree ramp on the front. And, while the ramp won't really be used as the arm should be at the same height as the top of the ramp, it does give more leverage to the weld. The inside edge of the stop is 1" from the center of the pivot, and the outside is 2". So the force will average a bit less than you calculated, but will be spread over a larger area. As for the pivot, Ben said his company has several and he'll see what he thinks is best. But I've looked at trailer spindles and there's one which uses 1" bearings and is good for 1250 lbs. The large end of the spindle is 1 1/4" and it is, obviously, steel so can be welded. However, all the hubs I've seen are cast, so welding to them is questionable. So Ben will see if he can find one that is steel and not cast. I could turn it down in the lathe to get a reasonable diameter. Anyway, please keep those cards and letters coming in!

It does look good, especially for the money!

I looks like I can put a tab on the front of the bumper's right end that will catch the arm before it hits the body. Obviously it'll have to be solid, but that would be better than a chain. I reviewed my plans with my nephew today. He's a mechanical engineer as well as a tremendous mechanic. He liked the plans, although he did seem to think that a ball or roller bearing arrangement for the swing arm would be better than my plans to use the tubing for the bearing. But I think the tubing will be adequate for the limited number of times it'll be used. Thoughts?

Bill - What's your estimate on when this thing will be on the road? It is coming together quickly.

It is so disappointing how people can put a big # on things and yet provide little to no description and few pics. The thing looks fairly straight, but there's obviously no front bumper and the valence is bent. Can't tell if there's a grille or not. No mention of what engine it is nor the state thereof. Can't tell about a rear bumper, interior, nor bed. But the tires look good.

Excellent! I like the little details, like the oil level and NP emblem in black. Things look really good! On the headlight doors, what media do you use at what pressure on plastic? I ask because I messed up when I used coal slag on a door panel as whatever pressure I used embedded some of the slag in the plastic. I realize that the headlight doors are harder plastic, but I'm just trying to learn. And will you do the grille and the upper and lower trim pieces as well? I'm thinking of doing those pieces in black for Big Blue some day to go with the to-be rear bumper, step bars, and maybe a revised front bumper.

That would do it. Well done!

I revised things a bit. Discovered I had both a Rear Axles page as well as a Differentials page. There is now one page: Driveline/Axles & Differentials and it has the info from both of those pages. And those pages have been deleted, and a redirect to the new page created so if someone had the old ones bookmarked they'll still find the info. I'm not really done with this new page, but it is an improvement - I think.

I revised things a bit. Discovered I had both a Rear Axles page as well as a Differentials page. There is now one page: Driveline/Axles & Differentials and it has the info from both of those pages. And those pages have been deleted, and a redirect to the new page created so if someone had the old ones bookmarked they'll still find the info. I'm not really done with this new page, but it is an improvement - I think.

That certainly IS a major achievement. Looks right at home there, too.

I've been slowly re-drawing the bumper and spare tire carrier in 3D. It isn't done but I thought I'd share with you where it is and invite (beg for?) your comments. Here's an overall view, so let me point out some of the design details as well as things that need to be added or resolved: I had planned to design it to carry a 44" tire, even though BB currently runs 31's. But that puts the top of a 31" tire 12" above the top of the tailgate, blocking the vision. So, I might drop the carrier 4", which will mean that a 35" tire will just about be the max. The tire carrier is 2 1/2 x 1/4" square tubing. The pivot is a 1 3/4" OD tube that is inserted through the bumper and welded top and bottom. The swivel is a piece of 2" tubing w/a .120 wall, which will give .010" clearance. The square tubing is fish-mouthed to fit the swivel tightly and give as much room for welding as possible. I'll need to put a washer between the swivel and the bumper for wear, and I'll add a grease fitting as well as a retaining bolt and washer at the top. The left end of the tire carrier will ride on a little ramp on the bumper, perhaps made of nylon, and be held to the bumper w/a clamp like this one. In addition, there will be a tab on the arm close to the left end that will catch the bumper so it can't swing too far and hit the tailgate. Further, I want to put a little catch on the bumper that will pass through a hole in that tab and automatically hold it to the bumper. I cannot find a description or picture of what I have in mind, but there are some on my boat. It's a pin that's split on the end with an unequal length arm pivoted in the split. Normally the long arm is down, and when you swing the tire carrier against the bumper the pin will go through the hole in the tab and then the long end of the arm swings down, capturing the carrier. I know that sounds like a belt and braces approach, but that's me. The only issue is how far that pin will stick aft of the bumper and how many times I hit it with my leg. So I'm open to other options, like maybe a big wing bolt. Or just a pin with a hairpin to retain it? Also, I have to figure out how to prevent the carrier from pivoting all the way around and slamming into the side of the truck. Ideas? Here are a couple more shots: