Gary Lewis

Nothing specific yet - just shopping. The guy who gave me this one works for MicroSoft, so he's giving me a few suggestions on what to buy. Microsoft has some good hardware. I'm typing on a Surface Pro tablet. The size of an iPad Pro, but with more capability. For instance, I can edit my website, which requires a mouse, and iPads and iPhones don't like rodents. I can run my CAD program, that doesn't run on Apple devices. And, by going with the i5 processor I didn't get fans, so it is silent.

Cool! I'll bet someone will want it. I'd not noted before that there are two 1424's in that illustration. One has a star with it, and the catalog says: Star symbol indicates part is not supplied for service for the following reasons: a. Part is superseded and replaced as indicated in the description column of text. b. Part can be improvised as indicated in the description column of text. c. Due to its function there would be little or no demand.

Interesting - you have the full kit shown here? Exterior/Spare Tire Carriers. I've never actually seen a full set of parts as most are usually missing something significant. I'd bet someone on here is interested.

Sometimes the intended use for folders isn't as apparent as first thought. :nabble_smiley_wink: As for expanding the scope, it has been. Post away. Once we see how much "other" traffic there is we can gauge how much segregation we need. Right now if we set up a sub-form for "other" you might be lonely.

To add to that, there are apparently no mechanics near Panama City. Several "professionals" had laid hands on BB, and I spent many, many days making most things right. But I still have to pull the engine to fix the oil leaks.

I think it is wise to future-proof the investment. Apple shire three people a curve with the Lightning connector. Steve - What kind of computer are you looking at? Just curious.

Having the deacons speak is a good idea for a number of reasons, including learning to speak to the congregation. Elders frequently need to do that, and it is good to be comfortable doing so. But it is also good to get them to delivering a message beyond a report on the status of their ministry. Yes, people need to be pushed out of their comfort zone to grow. God's plan is for us to grow into something approaching His image, and that requires change. That's not always comfortable, but it is always necessary. Anyway, that bore scope should be a big help. Hopefully you can find the problem. Speaking of which, I had a thought - perhaps someone put too long of a bolt in a blind hole and cracked the block there. Or, someone drilled out a stripped bolt hole and went too far. I say this because Rusty's 351M had a head with an exhaust bolt hole that had been drilled out and in doing so they "hit water". Bill/85LebaronT2 reminded me that my Chrysler RB 383 has "wet" exhaust bolt holes, meaning that you have to use sealant on them as they go into the water jacket. So I used sealant and the problem was solved. Maybe you have a bolt hole that has either been drilled out too far or someone tightened a too-long bolt too much and now there's an opening into the cooling passage. If so, you can do as I did and use sealant on it.

Done. But there's no big problem. I can delete this post, your last one, and your response if you want.

Cory is right, but you may be able to stem the flow by moving the clamp closer to the end of the hose until you replace the hose.

We, as a brotherhood, used to do meetings frequently. But I haven't been involved with one in years. However, we need something as a congregation and perhaps that is it. Get people to slow down and know Him. Anyway, if Bill doesn't chime in I'll rattle his cage.

Welcome! Sure glad you got your own Bronco back. That's cool! I assume you know, but just in case, you can decode the certification label here: Specifications/Certification Label. From there you can click on the links to determine what transmission and rear axle it has.

I don't have a bore scope to suggest, but I think Bill/85LebaronT2 does. Hopefully he will chime in. And Clips and Fasteners is a good one. I downloaded their catalog some years ago, but should probably get a new one. As for the gospel meeting, we haven't done one of those in years - but should. Did you bring in a guest speaker, have a different speaker each night, or what? I'm curious as it may be just what we need to do at the church where I'm an elder.

Given that, yours should be E1TZ 18518-A. But replacing the wire might be the way to go.

Wow! That's a lot of maintenance and upgrades. Impressive. And, you are on the map: Bullnose Forum/Member's Map.

Well done on the picture. Beautiful truck! You have an early '85 with the trim used for about 1/2 of a year. You can see it on the early '85 brochure here, and then see what seems to be the same truck w/o it here on the later '85 brochure.

You can test the voltage at C321, as shown below. I don't suggest piercing the insulation as it can allow moisture in to degrade the wire itself. And, you should check the voltage at the coil on the red/light green. You should check the voltage from those points to the battery's negative terminal, with and without the headlights on.

Funny! And having Henry John Deutschendorf Jr singing in the background is cool as well.

I think since you have an '82, and assume that you have Integral A/C, that it is E0TZ 19988-A. And Rear Counter says there's one in captivity: https://www.rearcounter.com/E0TZ-19988-A-parts194938.html. You can email that dealer for pricing. But, you might also send them a pic of yours to ensure it is the right one. One of the changes had to do with the mounting style, and another had to do with the shape of the end of the cable. Having said that, I might have one, although I don't know how easy it is to tell. So could you post a pic here of both ends?

Thanks for all the suggestions. I've done a lot of thinking about it and I've realized that we currently don't have any limits on who joins nor what they post about. Yes, we call it the Bullnose Enthusiast's Forum, but our guidelines don't say "Don't post anything else." And we have people posting about other things besides Bullnose trucks - including me with my Super Bee, 1950 Chevy pickup, my boat, and even my trailer - which has a thread of its own. One of the moderators on a Facebook page I'm on recently said "Don't post anything here but Bullnose", and removed a post of a neat truck from the 70's. And that saddened me. I just don't understand the need to limit things that precisely. So, we can't talk about Jim's '87 F250? Nor maybe even not Bill's '86 F350 because it has a later interior and front clip? What do we do with '87 to '96 trucks that have a Bullnose front clip - as discussed in our own thread on Converting 87-96 F trucks to Bullnoses? They really aren't Bullnose trucks, they just look like they are. What about Paul's 1980 w/a Cummings? Or, or, or...... I think we are "here" to have fun, share what we are doing, encourage each other, and get suggestions to help solve problems, design things, etc. So I'd rather not put limits on what we can "talk" about, but I do want our talk to be healthy, encouraging, and respectful - which it has been. Last night I talked with Brandon/Bruno2 and he would like to participate regarding his later trucks, and his son Kris has a 90's and might as well. This morning I talked with some of my friends at church. Steven Fox has a '93 and would like to participate - and he works at a tire and alignment shop and could be a valuable resource that way. Scott Ringler, the welding guy, has a '78 and is willing to participate - and would be a resource on welding, like frame repair. And I might get Ben, the other guy with a '78 to participate, and he's the guy that runs a fabrication shop that will make the rear bumper for Big Blue. So I'm happy to let others come in as and when they want. Let's help them as best we can, and if there is enough traffic for a specific genre of truck we can hive them off into a separate forum/sub-forum. But I don't see a need to create documentation for them as we've done for the Bullnose - especially since there are plenty of others who've done that. So maybe we should partner with the others and point people there for the documentation and answers to questions they can't get here. I hope that's ok with everyone.

Rich - Welcome! Tell us more about your truck? And, you could make the pic bigger. One approach is to select Big on the resizing menu when you post it. Another is to put width="100%" in the code generated for the pic, like this, although you'll have a on the back: nabble_img src="Jack_Above.jpg" border="0"width="100%"/ Also, do you want to be on our member's map? Bullnose Forum/Member's Map.

You, too, are on the map.

Welcome! We have similar trucks. Big Blue is only a regular cab, but is otherwise quite similar. The common problems for this setup revolve around the fuel system. I found a note recently in one of the dealer facts books that said that only the 460's in an F-Series with the Pickup Box Removal Program, Trailer Towing/Camper Package, or Special High Altitude Performance Package got electric fuel pumps. All else got the mechanical pump. The electric pump system is slightly complex as it has an inertia switch and a cutout relay controlled by an oil pressure switch. It isn't really all that complex, but most people seem to think so and a lot of the trucks have part of the system bypassed. But with the wiring diagram it isn't that bad to repair if you need to do so. Otherwise, just drive it and enjoy it. Oh, and don't forget to stop for gas - frequently. Oh yes, we have a member's map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map) and I can add you if you'd like.

How quickly does it start leaking after you start the engine? I assume that it doesn't leak until after it is up to operating temp and the coolant system is under a little pressure? Is the rad cap bleeding off? Did we ask this before? Those are all good questions. If the leak doesn't start until after it has run awhile then you are right - let's hope the dye shows something. And I like the bore scope idea as they aren't terribly expensive. But can you get it up under there with the engine running, assuming it has to be? Or, might you be able to see the dye if you had a bore scope and pulled the flywheel cover, supplied a lot of light, and ran it up there w/o the engine running and with the tranny still in place? On the blocks, pun intended, my father STRONGLY encouraged his boys not to use them. He had his car up on them and they crushed. The car came down around him, pinning him but not hurting him. His little brother was there and would take off running for the house to get their father, then stop and come back to see if his brother was ok. I guess it was comical in retrospect, but Dad wouldn't let us even think about using blocks. However, you probably have it worked out and are doing it safely, I'm sure.

Do you have a thread on this? I might try this. I don't think there's a thread on gluing the plastic screen on. In fact, I haven't done it yet. But, my buddy John, the paint and body man, has done it on other trucks. I'll get with him to get the details and get back with you.

It might, assuming no leaks in the system. But there are no coolant ports or plugs in the back of a 351W block. Only oil. https://supermotors.net/getfile/1133914/thumbnail/20180527_192357.jpg The only rear-facing coolant plugs are the bore plugs in the heads. The head & intake gaskets can leak coolant, but that would be OUTside the bellhousing. Have you checked what's running down the outside lip of the bellhousing/separator plate? It would still collect at the bottom of the bellhousing, but not much (if any) would be INSIDE. Can you buy/rent/borrow/steal a coolant pressure tester? https://supermotors.net/getfile/1036778/thumbnail/prestest.jpg ...unless there's some other chemical agent allowing them to mix, like a detergent, soap, surfactant, or ALCOHOL (like ethylene glycOL). ;) Yes, alcohol could do that. Hmmm... In my experience oil has been a layer on top of the coolant. But, I guess it could mix.