Gary Lewis

Ok, I think I can do that. But I hope you are feeling better. Your truck’s not at work.

Yes, Rick. I've seen the video and would like to try the new carb, which isn't priced too badly by the way. And, you can embed a Youtube video here. Just hit the Share button on Youtube, copy the code, and then hit the Embed button here and paste the code between the ">" and the " And, it doesn't work. And, now it does.

Let us know, we can help you work through it.

Hello! And Welcome! Retired? From what? I'm retired from Information Technology and live in OK. Speaking of "where", we have a member's map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map) and I'd be happy to add you if you'd give me the name of your town. But 7,600' is up there. Were are almost exactly 1/10 of that. And at that elevation you need good compression and spot-on air/fuel ratios, the latter of which is best achieved via EFI. So I understand the need for your planned changes. How 'bout starting a thread in the main section to show us some pics of your truck? Not that you can't here, but most people like to have a thread(s) about their trucks to record their progress. Welcome!

Check out the Ignition Switch tab here: Electrical/Ignition. It shows how to clean as well as adjust the switch.

Steve - Thanks for the response. But there's so much in yours that I'm going to respond in two installments. You said "So IDK if your donor list only includes those with the correct clocking or just all 130A 3Gs, but it SHOULD include all." And if by that you mean all 130A alternators with the right mounts then I fully agree. But, I can't tell from the part numbers what the mount configuration is, and we don't want to include 130A alternators that have the different mounts. I took the original donor list and matched it up to the applications in the interchange list and found that it closely matched two different part numbers. Given that, I assumed that I had the right alternators, and proposed that list of donor vehicles. But I have no proof that those are the right two alternators. Just a good, but not perfect, overlap of applications. Are they clocked correctly? Dunno. Are there others that may be clocked differently that could be used? Dunno As said, I don't think we want to include all of the 130A alternators shown in the interchange list as there are almost certainly some in there with the wrong mounts. We can tell the reader that this list is pretty sure to have the right alternator, but that there may be other applications that use alternators that will work, and then show them the picture, again as it is already in there, of the right alternator. I think what we may need to do is to have someone spend a day at the salvage with pics of the right alternators and just write down which vehicles have them and which don't.

That's effectively what I was asking for. But they don't seem to "remember" when I visit the site again that I turned them off. Sorry, I didn't realize that's what you were looking for. And probably didn't even know that feature existed at that point in time. I've looked in the setup and can't find anything that tells Sumo to remember you such that turning them off keeps them off. That's probably in the Pro version.

I wonder if it was added when you chose a radio?

I think "dummy lights" are the PC way to say "idiot lights".

Yep, the EVTM is better than the wiring diagrams as it breaks the schematics into individual circuits and describes how they work. In the screenshot below you can see how to get to the 1981 EVTM's index via the red circle, and from there you'll see the Start, Ignition, & Carb Circuits. But you probably went to the yellow highlighted Wiring Diagrams, and there are only the '85 and '86 there now. I have the '81 in paper form, but just haven't scanned it - yet.

Yes, the blue arrows are nice. Time for an update, with this evening's data in bold: Bullnose FAQ's: 44 44 44 Calibration Info & Part #'s: 43 43 43 Electrical/Alternators: 59 59 59 Engines/385 Series: 38 38 38 Interchange/Air Conditioning: 17 24 35 Specifications/Towing: 2 2 2 TSB's/TSB Index: 29 29 29 Year-To-Year Differences: 18 18 18 So, why is it that the Air Conditioning Interchange page is the only one of these that is counting up? In fact, it and the Window Lift Motor Interchange pages are the only two interchange pages with any likes.

That's a slick trick!

Chris - You are reading my mind! The last thing I want to have happen is for that carb to get his engine started and then fail - while he is breaking in that brand new flat-tappet cam. So, since the 600 will bolt right in place of the 750 on Big Blue, I'm going to put it on and run it. And, hopefully I can get enough miles on it to both ensure it is sound as well as to see what it'll due to the MPG on BB.

I have mine mounted on the driver's fender, but I've also mounted them on a bolt hole on the intake manifold, right in front of the carb. And, speaking of carb, that's what I did today - after I put away a bunch of the documentation I've been scanning. Long story short, but my brother bought a '55 Chevy that a friend of his has been drag-racing for many decades. It is very straight and clean, but the tunnel ram and dual Carter AFB's (the racing ones w/o a choke) on the 350 are a bit much. So he's going Edelbrock w/the intake and cam. I asked him what carb and he said a 750 CFM Edelbrock Performer. I told him that's too much carb and that I have a 1406 (600 CFM) he can have. Sold! I pulled the carb out and discovered that it wasn't complete. Nor was the other one. And, it is a manual choke. But I have a carb kit, thanks to Brandon, and an e-choke kit I bought some time ago. So, let the build up begin! It has now been thoroughly dis-assembled, cleaned, and partially re-assembled. At this point the float levels and drops have been set and the top is back on. So all that is left is to add the e-choke and put the linkage back together.

Cool! (Yeah, I know it is cool over there. Our preacher, a good friend, is up near Manchester and I've been hearing that it might even snow. Boy do I want to get back to Ol' Blighty.) What carb are you going with? Did we already have this conversation? I'm partial to the Edelbrocks.

I agree with Rick/Fonzie. I can't find the kit right now, but I'm pretty sure that ground shows as one of the parts in the underhood work light kit.

Ok, go back to the link above and look at the Ford Part Numbers tab. There you'll see the rear cab mount and it shows that they were the same up until a build date of 10/88.

Yes, mine are installed. I didn't do it as my paint/body man did it, but he didn't have any problems. Let me see if I can find info about the later ones in the catalog...

David - That's probably E0TZ 9932230-B, which is the kit for the 6 3/4' box, as shown here: Exterior/Beds, Tailgates, & Components, and then the Box Rails tab. But it is really hard to tell from the badly-damaged label. So it is like buying a pig in a poke, and I'd personally not be willing to do that for anything like $800. $300 maybe.

Yours don't look like mine, which are shown here: Suspension & Steering/Body Mounts and then the Cab Mounts tab followed by the Rear Cab Mounts tab. (And, if you follow that all the way I'll be surprised. )

That's a very nice truck! I sent the seller a note asking if we can immortalize that truck in the Picture Gallery section.

David - This one? https://www.ebay.com/itm/1980-86-Ford-F150-F250-F350-Bronco-RED-XLT-Interior-DRIVER-PASSENGER-Door-Panels-/253769851709 And this one? https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-Bronco-Inner-Door-Pocket-Pair/283188571411?hash=item41ef5aad13:g:gigAAOSw01JbfEnh:rk:1:pf:0

Yes, I do believe the 1988 trucks you described had a one-piece driveshaft. Here's what I found. And before you ask: Unfortunately, after '86 the listings didn't show the driveshaft length, so I can't tell you how long that one is. But, I can say it was also used in the same '89 trucks.

Man, that looks like WORK! (I see Maynard G. Krebs when I type that.)

That's quite a story! And yet you won. Three batteries to supply the current. And the anchor line sinking deeply into the other stump. That would explain why a similar stump said "is that all you've got" when I tried to pull it down with just the truck. I appreciate knowing how it can be done. Thanks!