Gary Lewis

It sounds like it is working nicely. It idles well and doesn't have flat spots. But, it may need a bit more choke - loosen the three screws holding the choke's heater down and turn it clockwise 1 notch and then snug the screws down. That should give you enough more choke that it will pull sooner w/o stumbling when cold. As for what else, an MPG reading would be nice. Yes, you have a lumpy cam and a heavy truck so it won't be stellar, but it would be interesting to see what it can do with some highway driving.

Is there enough bolt behind the nut to get two more nuts on and tighten them against each other? That, with days of penetrating oil and heat might help you break the nuts loose.

I think the others have addressed most things, and I agree with them. But on the EFI, I suspect that what's been done is to eliminate the AIR system that injects air into the exhaust ahead of the catalytic converter. I don't see the AIR pump, but I do see the EGR valve and it is wired. If that's all that's been done then I think the computer will be happy and won't throw codes. And if the Emissions light comes on for a few seconds when you start the truck and then goes off it must be happy.

Gary, I think he's referring to the red truck that was originally posted. It has the foglight switch bezel. I probably shouldn't have piggy backed on a previous thread with mine. That would explain it! Thanks, Cory.

Well, the Edelbrock 1406 (600 CFM) is done and on Big Blue. And, it pulls 21" of vacuum at idle with that carb, which is about 2" more than with the 750 at the same RPM. I don't understand that, but 'tis true. And, note in the video the oscillating vacuum reading. I'm pretty sure BB has one or two burned valves as he's been dropping one cylinder at idle and sometimes two since I got him. Well, the EFI heads are supposed to be ready in a couple of weeks, so that should cure him of that habit. As for how BB runs w/that carb, I say STRONG. In fact, if I didn't know the 750 is even stronger I'd have been quite satisfied. I wound that 460 up over 5K and only then did it run out of carb. But below that point the 600 was plenty of carb. However, it isn't jetted as rich so the throttle response isn't quite as strong - at least that's what it seemed like. But when you mash the throttle it GOES!

David - I only have 8 pics, and the 2nd one is of the driver's side.

Yes, good question. I think we recently had a discussion about that, but don't remember the conclusion. Perhaps someone will remember or can search on the forum for it and inform us? I looked but didn't find it.

David - I missed that. In fact, I can't find it. Where did you see it? What did I miss? It does look like that guy. But this excerpt from the 1981 brochure shows what is in the Free Wheelin' packages, and they would have included the black grille and headlight doors. I think it is just a Flareside with paint stripes, as shown here: Specifications/Tape Stripes. Probably a Type 6 or so.

It certainly is nice and he, or she, has reasonable expectations.

Yessir! Verona to be exact, although now the view is the same but the java is Sumatra. I've now cataloged ~2.3 of the 23 binders, and have entered 159 new TSB booklets, each of which holds many TSB's. And, typically there are 3 or 4 bulletins for the trucks within each booklet. And with those 159 I've just gotten up to the TSB's I already had - and there are more than 20 binders left to catalog! You can follow along if you want. As I catalog the OneDrive systems automagically updates this page every couple of minutes: TSB's/TSB Bulletin List.

Interesting. But our paths might have crossed. If I remember correctly, a friend of mine (from near Burlington, NC as he was off that GD account and had been working for me) was one of the SDM's there - and probably the first one. (I think they had a revolving door, as there was after me at Sears.) He had me come into town and teach a class on Global Excellence at Aon just after the outsourcing. We discussed how CSC was put together, organizationally, who the players were for each of the organizations w/in what was probably called the GIU at the time, etc. It is a very, very small world.

You were right, given the discussion. I just wanted to explain what "DIN" actually means.

If it was, that would explain why there is no ground strap on my radio delete 84. I got approval from Shelton Classics and put that one up: Picture Galleries/1984 F150 XL.

Depends on your definition of "truck": 83 R — heater 84 B "Before 8/83" E3TZ 18471-C Upper

Only a fit for 1980 and early '81 F & U series trucks: 80/81 F100/350 - - All "Before 2/81" EOTZ 3B676-A Lower

Uh oh! You knew! I was w/DuPont when they o/s'd to CSC, but I was with Conoco in Ponca, London, and Houston before DuPont bought Conoco. Then I was the SDM for the Eastern Region and then for GD, globally. Might your wife and I crossed paths?

DIN is the German Institute for Standardization, an independent platform for standardization in Germany and worldwide. It issues "any of a series of technical standards originating in Germany and used internationally, especially to designate electrical connections, film speeds, and paper sizes."

You are now, quite literally, on the map. Seems like you have an affinity for motor vehicles, as do I. ('50 Chevy pickup & '69 Bee in addition to the Bullnose trucks.) As for career, I retired from the #3 outsourcing company in the world, and was the Service Deliver Manager on one of our "wins" - a company that is currently in bankruptcy court and making headlines. That seems to have been the type of company from which we could win business.

A funny thing happened on the way to the casino. An F250 wearing Blue Jeans pulled up next to an F150 wearing Blue Jeans and 23 FAT binders were transferred from one capacious back floorboard to another. Sports fans, we have TSB's! It looks like quite a few in the late 70's, and then everything from about '79 to '98. But, I'm just now starting to inventory....

Ok Steve, now for Installment 2: The Wiring. The Bullnose ammeters are all the same, just like your 83's. For others, since you know this, here's how the wiring looks like with the regulator and its wiring removed for simplicity. And the way it works is that any current across the shunt creates a voltage that gets registered by the "ammeter". If the current flows from left to right, which means it is flowing out of the battery, then the ammeter registers discharge. And if it flows from right to left across the shunt, meaning the battery is being charged, then that's what the ammeter registers. But let's assume that we replace the 1G alternator with a 130A-capable 3G and wire it the same as the factory did and have no additional electrical load in the cab. As shown below, the current to the battery will be from the ammeter through the shunt, and in normal situations all will be well. However, what if we have a dead or bad battery? The alternator will go full-tilt and with the right engine RPM's it'll kick out all 130 amps. But by my estimation that shunt is sized to handle ~70 amps, which is the largest alternators these trucks came with. I do not think that shunt will handle the load and the insulation will melt. I know that can happen because I recently helped a young man with melted wiring and he admitted he'd just replaced the alternator with a 3G - without taking the shunt out of the current's path. And I've heard of it happening to others as well. However, you suggested recently that we take the alternator's output to the relay's always-hot post. And, assuming that people do as you suggest and don't connect any additional loads to the stock wiring, that solves the problem because, as shown below, the current to charge the battery does not go through the shunt. However, whatever current is flowing to the cab will always show as a discharge on the ammeter, so if even just the engine is running there will be a slight discharge. That's not the "clean" way to do it in my opinion as I think it is better to convert the ammeter to a voltmeter, but some people don't want to bother to do that. So at least this approach will keep them from burning up their wiring. And, if you are going to turn the ammeter into a voltmeter, like I'm doing, this is the way to do it as well. The shunt won't be hurt with the current for the normal accessories, and you can use the red/orange wire as the positive lead to the voltmeter. Thoughts?

Nice truck! Those things are 'spensive, and it'll go for a lot.

Yes, the smaller carb should help with both of those, but just won't have as much top-end power. However, Ford put a 600 CFM carb on the 460 from the factory, so it should work out well. But, it isn't happening today. I had some errands to run this morning and was out in the 40 degrees and 110% humidity too long, so am now on the porch w/a cup of hot chocolate and a quilt. And the guy bringing the 23 binders of TSB's is supposed to text just about any mo to tell me he's rolling into T-town, so I'll just warm, not chill, for a bit and catch up on forum stuff.

You know that I don't have any of the qualifications you requested. But, you also know that I have strong opinions - about almost everything. First, you need to check that long-tubes will fit. And by "fit" I mean not only will they clear the tranny and other such obstructions, but that they won't be against the frame. Big Blue's L&L's, which are about the most expensive header you can buy, are against the frame on the driver's side. And I've seen someone comment on FB that their L&L's are against the frame, but on the passenger's side. So for that reason I'm not sold on long-tubes. And since these won't fit the 460 EFI heads I'm considering shorties for the up-coming changes. In theory shorties flow better and bolt into the same spot as the manifolds. I, too, like the dual idea, so will go that way as well. And, I like Magnaflow muffs, so will certainly go that way. But Magnaflow makes a dual-in/dual-out muffler that might work if two singles won't fit. Yes, I think you need cats or the 'puter won't like it. And EGR doesn't hurt the performance, can help the MPG's, and certainly helps the environment so is good to retain.

You are now on the map. I didn't put in your address, but the map got close. (Mine isn't very close, but we don't want the map to be that accurate.)

So, where's the how-I-like-it report?