Gary Lewis

Lots and lots of them. Let me know if you find what you were looking for.

Wow! Was gone most of the day with eye doctor appointments, more on later, and things go bonkers. Thanks, guys! I've messaged Trent, whom I've been messaging with in the background re a DS-II conversion on a 90's truck, and he says he won't want much and will get me better pictures. So, we sorta have a path forward. Thanks again, guys.

I was sure you were going to miss that truck. I seriously considered buying it to "keep it in the family". But, you can create another one.

Oops! Wouldn't you think I would have included info for the 2150 on my favorite engines? Go look now: Fuel Systems/Carburetors, Chokes, & EFI/Motorcraft 2150.

Vinny- In the lower right of the box/window the document is in there is a button that, when clicked gives options that should include printing. Or, you can go full-screen and print from there.

Jonathan - You are right, it was comparing the 208 to the 1356. I didn't know the 1345 and 1356 were so similar. So, that makes the decision easier. What I'd like to do is to install the t-case while the cab is in the air as I'm pretty sure I can manhandle it into place w/o having to use the tranny jack. That'll make it much easier as getting a t-case on the tranny jack at the right angle isn't the easiest thing to do, and it is even harder to do if you are trying hard not to scratch the paint. And, playing with the linkage will be much easier with the cab in the air. Plus, I can test-fit the driveshafts and, assuming they fit as they surely will, then I can refurb them and install them. Sounds like a plan!

I, too, see what you are talking about. But I'm out and about today so will have to wait to see what I can do about it later today/tomorrow. Sorry.

Jarek - Please don't take this the wrong way as your English is FAR better than my Polish. But, I'm not sure I understand what you said and/or are asking. Let me try this: I: This is the excitation to the alternator. There has to be some voltage on it in order for the alternator to function. And the diagram shows that the wire on it (light green/red) should have battery voltage when the ignition switch is in the Run position. S: This is the stator output of the alternator, and is only used for the choke's heater and to tell the computer that the engine is running - on the 4.9L engine, only. So the light green/red wire really needs to go to I. Does that help?

Mark - Do you want me to add you to the map? In Newtown? As for the dash pad, a few years ago I did a lot of research on them, and back then Just Dashes was essentially the only manufacturer for them, and they were sold through several outlets - at different prices and in different colors. But, buying directly from them was more expensive than buying from a third party. Anyway, some of the info is in this thread on FTE.

Ding, ding, ding! We have a winner!

True. But you could see it here as well and zoom in to your heart's content: Literature/1982 Literature/1982 Accessories.

Ain't it though! My wife and I can quote many of the lines since we've heard them so many times. I wonder how many others on here know what we are talking about?

Jonathan - I thought you said the snout is longer and that there may be other strength improvements on th 1356. I don't know. But here's what I found back in July of 2015, as posted here on FTE: (I'm really liking having the index of what's been done on the truck!) Jim - The E4 is several inches longer, so I will surely have to get creative on the linkage. But, if I can use the original linkage and modify w/o cutting the floor then that may be the way to go. And, y'all, I forgot that I got the driveshafts with Huck, which is where the E4OD itself came from. So I should be good painting them and replacing the u-joints to use them on Dad's truck.

Double check your 1356, but no, it didn’t on my Bricknose 1345... and I think the shifters all have the same pattern. I thought I would have that problem but evidently it shifts with counter clockwise rotation instead of clockwise. I got lucky as it never even occurred to me when I was pulling it. It also has a longer input spline “snout” than the 1982 unit, so there were some strength improvements made also. Good to know. Thanks. Hmmm, if the 1356 is stronger then should it go in Big Blue with the 460? But, that would mean his 1345 has to be rebuilt and painted, and that means it can't be installed when the tranny goes in. And it would sure be nice to install the t-case from the top when the cab is on the lift. Plus, I could then install the drive shafts. Oh wait! The E4OD is several inches longer, so the drive shafts will have to be redone. Hmmm, maybe I should put them in Big Blue and buy new ones?

I bet you guys worry about the light inside your refrigerator, too! Yep, sure do.

Gary, I think you can use the later transfer case with the Bullnose shifter and linkage and you DON’T have to cut the floor. The main difference is that the Bullnose era transfer cases have the lever pointing down, and the bricknose and later have the lever pointing up. When you put the Bullnose shifter on the later transfer case it does mash the lever too far forward in 2H, but it does work. Lengthening the linkage rod would fix that... and would be a lot easier than cutting a hole in the floor to retrofit the shifter that goes in the side of the tunnel. I never got around to lengthening mine, and I’ve just been living with it, but it wouldn’t be hard to fix. Granted mine is just a late model 1345 vs. early model 1345, but it did come from a bricknose truck with a side shifter and from what I can tell the 1356 looks identical to the late 1345’s in the way the lever on the side of the case is oriented (pointing up). Check into it, even if you end up using it in Big Blue. It should still save you time trying to convert to the newer shifter. And different tunnel cover and carpet etc., ^^^1982 Bullnose 1345^^^ ^^^1989 Bricknose 1345^^^ (Using 1982 shifter/linkages) ^^^Shifter in 2H/Bricknose T-case^^^ ^^^1356 note lever position^^^ White Knight - Thanks! The documentation approach is something for which I've been looking for quite a while. I knew that the vast number of posts in the large number of threads was going to make it difficult to figure out what I'd done. So now I have a way to gradually sort through the various threads and glean the bits that I want to save. As for the truck, thanks also. I do have countless hours in it and really do need to change how it is insured. No one would pay for what I've got in it, but still.... Jonathan - Thanks much for that! I'll probably then install the 1356 on Dad's truck as the engine and tranny go in, and sort out the linkage issue later. I already know one way to make an adjustable linkage. But, does the up vs down linkage not change the shift pattern?

Mark - Welcome! Good to meet you. That is a nice looking truck, for sure. And waiting to buy until you find one in the that condition is the way to go. As for the dash, you will find there are dash "covers" and dash "pads". The latter replaces what you say is rotted on yours, and will run around $400+. The covers typically come from Coverlay, regardless of where you get them, and run about $100+. They fit pretty well and are adequate for most people. And where in eastern PA are you? We used to live in the Kennett Square area, but that may be south of you. Anyway, we have a member's map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and I can add you to it if you'd like.

Honestly, I've never had a problem. I just always wonder.....

Looks good, Kevin. But do you watch it to see that it goes out when you close the hood? Check the ground to see that there's no light? It always worries me.

Yes, I think it is. Been thinking about doing that on Big Blue if and when the time comes. Lots easier to clean up when you get in with muddy boots.

I've spent the last couple of days reminiscing as I pull together the bits and pieces of information regarding Dad's truck. The document in the first post of this thread is coming together, and I now know where to go for some of the info. I now know that I took the truck to one paint/body man on 4/21/2013 and got it back, unfinished but paid for, on 10-2-2013. Then it went to the next paint/body man on 1/15/2014 and came back, in stunning fashion, on 3/17/2016. Similarly I'm discovering other mis-steps, like the upholstery job that was to cry for. The transfer case that was rebuilt, with lots of mod's, but which uses linkage that goes through the floor - and I don't want to cut the floor, so will use it in Big Blue. The transmission that was completely rebuilt but will also go to Big Blue. However, there are lots and lots of good memories as well. The dyno session with Tim Meyer for instance. And the help so many people have given me to sort out problems or provide parts. All in all, it has been a fun trip. The document is no where near ready for prime time, but at least I have a start. So read it if you want, but feedback on the method is more needed than the content.

Yep, that's why I made the "R" bold. But, I guess that was too subtle?

Wow! Pretty! But, I want a radio.

86/ R - - 125" W/B (RH) E6TZ 5084-A (LH) E6TZ 5084-B

I can delete it, but you can just leave it here until you get to a computer. And, you are right about the ease of use on a phone. I can make it work, but it isn't the easiest thing to do.