Gary Lewis

So, did one of your u-bolts come loose or did the u-joint fail first?

Strange. Probably one of their Better Ideas.

Sounds like a plan! Was your original u-joint a 1350 x 1310? Or was that the yoke you could find?

Good plan, Stan. Go see what you think, and vote: https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/Texas-Industrial-Electric-Company-td144903.html (Not sure who's already voted. ) As for what I did, I did a bit of playing with jumpers and tested the Motorcraft relay in the PDB. Now, with better jumpers, I have the voltage drop down to .25 instead of the .31 to .35 previously reported. So the jumpers and connectors are critical in measuring this. Hopefully tomorrow I'll get a setup where I can test the relays themselves and see if I can tell where the voltage drop is coming from.

Texas Industrial Electric Company carries a wide range of electrical components and deserves consideration as they don't have you order over the internet. Instead you call in (210.654.4075) and talk to Steve. He'll tell you if the parts you are considering are the ones you should have, and then you can order, right there on the phone.

Called TIE and talked to Steve. Told him I'm interested in the Bosch 0 332 019 103 but don't understand the bit about their request to "Please Specify if you need 12-10 ga terminals". He said that all of those relays come with the same standard-sized terminals. But that the majority of existing equipment out there has terminals that are only good for 28 - 30 amps. So if you are going to use the full 50A capability of the relay you'll need a socket they have which has much better terminals. Then I asked how to order 'cause I don't see a way to do it. He said that's their plan - you order from him, which has resulted in essentially zero returns over the years. So I ordered two of those relays. Now I'm working on a way to test relays in the blower circuit and see where I'm dropping voltage...

Ok, let's try this. Here are three schematics in a fairly quick and dirty fashion. Obviously the next step would be to add the voltmeter and the associated key-on relay, but let's hold off on it for a bit. Does this help?

Welcome, Joel. Again, glad you joined and that you did the intro. Thanks. Where's home? I ask because we have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and I can add you with a city/state or zip.

Welcome! Glad you joined. However, you may have missed the email you were sent asking you to go to the New Members Start Here folder, read the guidelines, and then post an intro there. We do that because we hold everyone to the guidelines and want to ensure you've seen them. Don't worry, this happens a lot. But please go do that before we go further.

I'm in no hurry and happy to answer questions. Yes, you can power the choke off a 3G since it has a stator connection just like the 1 & 2G. As for removing the whole harness, yes you can. But you'll then have to do some wiring. Let me do some more work to explain that in another post.

The new thread is here: https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/Rethinking-The-3G-Conversion-Pages-Process-td144886.html

Folks, I'd like to start a debate here on what we should be recommending and have documented regarding 3G conversions. (I want to keep this to "3G" rather than 1-wire as that adds complexity. We can address the 1-wire after we sort through this.) Our recommendations and schematics have been for a significant changeout, including a megafuse, voltmeter instead of ammeter, and a key-on relay. But many people want to convert w/o doing all of that, so I'm beginning to think that we need to have three or four different scenarios. Something like the following with advantages, disadvantages, and schematics included: Quick & Dirty: This would be for those that want a 3G but don't want to do any other work. In that case they could just take the alternator output to the starter relay - without a fuse. I personally don't think this is a good idea, so maybe we shouldn't even mention it? As for advantages and disadvantages, one disadvantage would be that the ammeter would only show discharge, so would be worthless. But an advantage would be that everything would be there in case you wanted to go back with a 1 or 2G. Bare Minimum: As above with a megafuse. And maybe this is really "bare minimum"? If so, should we ditch the Quick & Dirty approach? Cleaned Up: In this case they could unplug connector 610, bring wire 37 (Y) from S101 to the battery + stud of the fender mounted starter relay, and bring the fused output of alternator there as well. But you'd still have an ammeter that was worthless as now it'll never move at all. And you can't easily go back to a 1 or 2G. Done Right: This is the one we've been describing for years, with a megafuse, voltmeter, etc. The advantage over Cleaned Up is that you can tell that the alternator is working because of the voltmeter. But a disadvantage is that you've now altered the wiring so going back would be difficult. Maybe we don't need Quick & Dirty and just go with Bare Minimum as we can't recommend doing it w/o a fuse. But I wanted to get that out there to see what y'all think. If we had three or four options, with schematics and advantages/disadvantages, then we would be able to answer the questions we get of "but why can't we" do this or that. We'd have thought through solutions that take into account "this or that", at least for the most part. And then people could chose their poison. Thoughts, please!

Don't think there's a hurry as we are just talking about how and what to recommend in the future. And this thread is probably not the best place to do it anyway. I'll start a new thread and ask for opinions.

Yikes! That really IS carnage! Hope you can get it sorted quickly.

Thanks, Jim. That makes sense. I sure don't want the larger terminals. But it is interesting that I don't see different terminal sizes in the Bosch catalog. Which gets me back to my testing methodology. Perhaps it isn't the relay that has the voltage drop but the terminals or wiring in the PDB. So I'm planning on making up some jumpers today to test the relays outside of the PDB. Then I can measure the voltage drop of each device/connection.

You can see the deflector, #4859, and the slinger, #4670, in the illustration. That's about all I know of the difference.

No, 4209 is the ring & pinion set:

Mat - If you are able to maintain 70 MPH and not shift out of OD on the AOD then you are set up well. And your overall gear ratio is very close to Big Blue's as he turns right at 2K at 72 MPH. (He doesn't downshift on hills either. )

Janey doesn't think a grab handle on the B-pillar would work for her. It would tend to turn her left/aft and she wants to be turning right/fore to be able to slide in.

Is this what you need? Assuming you have a non-locking diff then you use parts list #258, and from that:

Well, that's certainly a less-expensive problem than the whole differential. Let me see what I can find in PNs...

Yes, it is true. Been there and done that. But have now run out of refills. But back on the relay quest, I'm quite confused. I've found lots of people selling the Bosch 0-332-019-103 relay, which Bosch's catalog says is a 50 amp unit, but some list it at 50A, some at 40A, and some at 30A. And yet, when a picture is provided it is the same relay. All I can think is that the people that created the listings either don't know what they are doing or looked at the Bosch catalog and saw that the thing is rated for a different number of cycles depending on the current being handled and used the one they thought best. So I'm thinking of ordering some in today, which is why I asked Copilot to find the best prices on it. But Copilot doesn't seem to know how to account for shipping, so where it found the relay for $5, at Pelican, the shipping is $5 and it'll be here in a few days. Or I could pay $6 for the relay and $13 for shipping at CarParts.com and it'll be here some time next week. But Copilot didn't list Amazon, which has the relay for $10/ea and free shipping - and it'll be here today. As for Texas Industrial it won't let me order that relay. There's no link to add it to the cart nor a buy-now. It says "Please Specify if you need 12-10 ga Terminals", which I don't understand. May call Texas and see.

I'm not sure I understand. Bing doesn't give me the options I want in searches. But Copilot did exactly what I asked it to do and found sellers of the relay and ranked them in price order. Chrome won't do that nor will Bing by itself. So, what did I miss?

To me Google Chrome has a required feature that Bing doesn't have - the ability to force the search to be verbatim. Some say that you can just put quotes around the parameters and get the same results, but that's not true as it forces the parameters to be in exactly the same order as you typed. But "verbatim" doesn't do that. I can find what I'm looking for many times using that feature and I'm not willing to give it up. So until Bing gives it to me I won't be using Bing - for most things. But, I did just try using the combo of Bing & Copilot and asked "What is the best price you can find the the Bosch relay number 0-332-019-103?" And the results were very good and FAR better than asking Google the same question. Here they are from Copilot:

I'm beginning to think that we need to have three or four different scenarios. Something like: Quick & Dirty: This would be for those that want a 3G but don't want to do any other work. So it'd be pretty much as I said, meaning take the alternator output to the starter relay. Then we'd list the advantages and disadvantages. One disadvantage would be that there's no protection, meaning no megafuse, and your truck could burn down. Some would argue that Ford didn't put one on the 1G or 2G trucks, but the counter would be that they did when they went to the 3G. Another disadvantage would be that the ammeter would only show discharge, so would be worthless. But an advantage would be that everything would be there in case you wanted to go back with a 1 or 2G, like you put in a 1-wire and got stranded in the back of beyond. Bare Minimum: As above with a megafuse. Cleaned Up: As you described with all of the extraneous stuff removed. But you'd still have an ammeter that was worthless as now it'll never move. But a disadvantage is that you then can't easily go back to a 1 or 2G. Done Right: This is the one we've been describing for years, with a megafuse, voltmeter, etc. The advantage over Cleaned Up is that you can tell that the alternator is working because of the voltmeter. But a disadvantage is that you've now altered the wiring so going back would be difficult. Maybe we don't need Quick & Dirty and just go with Bare Minimum as we can't recommend doing it w/o a fuse. But I wanted to get that out there in light of your comment. If we had three or four options, with schematics and advantages/disadvantages, then we would be able to answer the questions we get of "but why can't we" do this or that. We'd have thought through solutions that take into account "this or that", at least for the most part. And then people could chose their poison. Oh yes, about the "why not a 1-wire". I don't see enough of an advantage of a 1-wire over a 3G to make it worth doing, so don't want to go to the trouble of drawing up the schematic or doing the writeup. So maybe I write up my thoughts and bounce it around on here to get something we can agree on and put it on the site. Then if people ask we can point to that and be done. Am I wrong, folks?