Gary Lewis

Nice. And only $60.

I thought the $300 pair was high, but then saw the $400 pair. Was pleasantly surprised at the $79 single.

And?????

I think the way to tell is the price lists. Not sure how many I have, but I have the '85 and '86 ones on the website. Looking at the '86 one, I see these grilles: Base truck: Light argent with bright surround grille was standard XL Flaresides: Chrome grill was standard XLT Lariat (available Styleside only): Chrome grille was standard But I don't see anything about dark argent. And I don't have those dealer facts books on the website. So, I plan to do some sleuthing tomorrow. I hope.

Let me know if you need measurements. I have the hydroboost unit to hand.

Gary, Maybe what I have is the dark charcoal grill? Or maybe it was painted at some point I guess? It's just that it doesn't look like it was painted...it just looks like faded plastic. Cory - I forgot to look in the cross-ref today. Sorry.

I can't find them in the MPC. I searched the whole of the catalog for 23942, which is the door panel itself. That let me look at every illustration where the panel is shown, and none of them have those pieces shown. And, I can't find it in the text section either, but since I don't know the part number it is harder to find.

Well done, David!

Why would you leave the donuts and not eat them?

So that's when it was used! I wasn't aware of that. Good to know.

I think all of the engines but the 4.9L/300 six have a bypass where coolant will flow w/o the heater. Certainly the Windsors do. So there's no problem blocking off the heater, meaning the valve you have (2-port?) will work.

Yes, good score! Didn't know the Mustangs had hydroboost. Do you need to know any dimensions?

If you "T" off the vacuum hose going to the servo-motor for operating the fresh air vent door [passenger side, under hood], the heater still works but the hot coolant is cut off when MAX COOL is selected. Very true. But, you still have heat in the Vent position. And there are many times I'd like to have outside air temp coming through via Vent.

Sorry for hijacking the thread (that's an emoticon we need!), but ..... I think that's a more apt description. Thanks, I'll start using that terminology. Here's Huck's timing cover. And as you can see there's no place for the coolant to go but into the cooling system. Probably not as efficiently w/o a backing plate on the pump, but it would work.

Functionally, no. Stopping the coolant in one place within that circuit stops it everywhere in that circuit. But it's better to block the hose coming from the intake - the hot/supply/PRESSURE side. Blocking the cold side puts the heater core under slightly more pressure, which makes it more prone to leak or rupture. The best way to do it is to use a 4-port valve, so coolant still flows. https://supermotors.net/getfile/992200/thumbnail/38htrvlv.jpg Yeah, I thought about explaining all that. But when I didn't know if it was really the heater hose he was talking about I took the easy way out. And, the Ranger 4-port is a good mod. I just have a cable-operated valve with no cable in Big Blue's supply-side heater hose and I turn it on in the winter and off in the spring. But I really want to try my vacuum-operated mod, so......

Glad you got it figured out. As for the "cutoff valve for the A/C", I'm going to assume you mean you are installing a water shutoff valve in the heater hose line. Right? If so, then it doesn't matter which of the two hoses you put it in.

For those with curious minds, I'll take a pick of Huck's engine later this morn and post it so you can see how the backless-pump would work. (Does "curious minds" mean that particular mind is a curious thing? Did it come from Abby Normal?)

Well I took the risk of using the lacquer thinner on the headlight doors and it worked. I used a small piece of white Scotchbrite, and the paint did come off. You pretty much have to let it soak a little bit. I couldn't scrape it off and I couldn't simply wipe it off...the thinner needs to sit on it a bit before it wipes off. The headlight doors and associated parts are not in terrible condition for their age, and I don't mind them looking a little bit weathered (Isn't that weathered look a thing these days?...lol). I'm going to repaint all of the tabs black...can't really see them anyway. The upper grill trim piece (the metal one) had a noticeable dent in it that was driving me crazy. I laid it flat on the bench on a soft rag and then hammered the inside with a piece of wood, and the dent is almost completely gone...I don't think you'll even see it afterwards. This old junk is going to look pretty good! Gary, Question for ya... I've been running a black 82-86 grill in my truck. It was an original Ford part that a local guy was selling a couple years ago and I kinda liked it. Not sure if it is staying or not, but I'm curious...can you remind me again which trucks did come with the black grills? Was it just the Broncos? The number on the back of it is E2TB-8150 A/B if that is any help. Cory - Glad the thinner worked and didn't damage the headlight doors. Well done! As for the weathered look, I do hope that's a "thing". I took the headlight doors off Big Blue yesterday and saw how badly faded they are. But if I start painting or powder coating everything that is to go back on I'll never get this back together. On the grille, there wasn't a completely black one in the 1982-86 range. As you can see from the snippet below (Exterior/Exterior Trim & Moulding), they even substituted a light argent & black one for the all-black 1980-81 unit when those ran out, so they must have been fairly close in looks. I'll check the E2TB 8150-A/B ID # later in the cross reference and see if I can confirm this, but I'll bet you have E2TZ 8150-A, the light argent and black one from '82. For whatever reason the guru's at Ford tended to turn E2TZ into E2TB and then play with the suffix to create an ID # from a part #.

Yep. Assuming the "imbalance" is correct the balancer or flywheel can be any weight. Huck's 460 had no backing plate. When we, you/Bill/I, were discussing the disassembly at the time I pointed out that the serp bracket was broken. Bill quickly suggested that I check for a backing plate on the water pump - and there was none. But I'm told the engine ran fine, and there was no water in the coolant. So apparently the water pump works, but probably not very well.

Yippee! Can't wait to meet you, Scott.

Yup. The serp bracket breaks. You nailed that one.

I mentioned the Tin Indian. Didn't know their timing sets were dry. Makes no sense! As for a 460 water pump plate, what happens when you leave one off on a serpentine system?

Right - The total weight of the balancer doesn't matter. It is the imbalance that matters as it has to negate the imbalance of the engine. So both the balancer and the flywheel are out of balance to compensate. I'll bet that yours is correctly balanced/imbalanced, but just weighs more than the other one.

That will make short work of them. That's exactly how I did it.

Glad you got it figured out. Lots easier to fix what you understand.