Gary Lewis

Luckily I've already rebuilt most of the rear harness, with exception to the fuel tanks. Thanks for the offer though. This is another WHYDFYTT. Scotty The Mad Porter called and said the short block is ready to ship. So I paid him and it'll probably ship later this week. I did ask him about sending the heads to him and having him assemble the engine and break it in. I'm worried that I won't have the EFI sorted and things will go south and the cam won't get its 20 minute break-in run. Scott said he has a 4bbl adapter that he uses to break in EFI engines, and he'll send me one when the time comes. So with that and a DS-II dizzy it'll be easy to fire it and break it in before getting the EFI sorted.

If you don't find the little ones let me know. I may be able to find them on-line.

Your illustration is correct. But I don't think the driver will ever hear the left channel out of both ears, nor will the passenger hear the right channel out of both ears. That's because the center speaker is limited to what is common to both left and right channels. So if it is only in the left channel you won't hear it from the center speaker. Ditto for the right channel.

If you wire it in a standard dvc config (stereo) the driver will have L on one side and L+R on the other. Passenger would be opposite. I've heard of people doing that in high school but I've never heard it in person (or am not attune enough to know...). I am not positive that it won't play L-only and R-only output, I thought that required a dsp. Regardless on whether it's a true center or not, if you want a center speaker without a more complicated setup then that sounds like a valid plan. People hear/tolerate things differently so you can always run it for awhile and then unplug the center to see what sounds best to you. Scott - I should have cranked up the sound system in the shop over the weekend. The Bose speakers have a center channel speaker wired exactly that way. It works pretty well.

I just put the attendance, results, pictures, etc on the Bullnose Forum/Ford Truck Show page. (It is FAR easier to post ~50 pictures on a web page than in a forum post.) Please take a look and check out the awards. If I didn't get it correct please let me know so I can change it. David - What is Robert's last name? All - Did I miss anyone? And, I have the following tee shirts left. They are $10 each plus shipping, which I think will be less than $5. Medium - 5 Large - 7 XL - 4 Email me if you want one.

Looks like it is 7/8-20. This site says that should have a major diameter of .875" and this measures .870". And it is a 20 pitch. This thing wasn't even finger tight, so we've been discussing this same thing some time recently.

I hope they hold too, we shall see. I appreciate you looking for those clips. If we can't find anything I may just mic the dash and see if I can find some generic u-clips to fit there. I have only found the clips for the bezel to dash face screws. If I didn't bag and tag it from the old dash, it means I probably broke them trying to get them off. I'm assuming that your question is if there are sheet metal spring nuts on the dash pad where the instrument & radio bezels attach and where the pad attaches to the dash itself. And the answer is yes. Let's start here. These are the fasteners for the dash pad. The screw at the top, with the smaller head, goes in the defrost vent openings, while the one with the larger head holds the two bezels in as well as the dash pad to the instrument panel/dash on the right side. Also note the two kinds of spring nuts. Both take the same screw, the one with the larger head, which is probably a #8. And both go into the dash pad. The three driver's side spring nuts as well as two for the radio bezel are the smaller, traditional spring nut. But the passenger's side takes three of the odd spring nut with the extra loop on the back, which I'm sure is to protect the wires that run back there. Here's a shot of one of those with the screw in it to show how that piece protects the wires: But, I don't have part numbers for either of those spring nuts. I'd take them off the old pad. And if one breaks then find some at the parts store that will fit. My normal ones measure .530" wide, .815" long, and have a reach of .325" to the hole. And a max material thickness of .140".

Care to expand? Again this is new territory for me. I'm pretty sure that speaker wasn't working when I got the truck. I guess I could test it out or leave it dead... mount a little dc exhaust fan there for the new stereo lol. Reading this thread it looks like I will be getting 3 way 6.5 inch speakers for the doors. I like a center speaker, but I don't wire it the way the factory did - and they didn't put a center speaker in a truck with door speakers if I remember correctly. Ford's center speakers were mono, as were the radios that drove them. But if you have a stereo head unit and, therefore, door speakers you can wire the center speaker as a center channel by giving it the negative lead from one side of the stereo and the positive lead from the other. That way things that are in both channels come out of the center speaker as well, but things that are only in the left or right don't.

The sway bar illustrations are shown here: Documentation/Suspension/Sway Bars. And the part numbers are there as well, but I'll show them here also. Each of those probably had a different way of mounting. I know for sure that the illustration that is marked 1980/ F250/350 - 2WD And F-U 150 4WD is wrong for Dad's truck. Probably because of the quad shock setup, but that sway bar attaches to the crossmember like the 2WD one shows to do.

I'm not pushing Sea Foam. I'd try water, but the way Steve suggested with a sprayer to ensure you don't get too much water all of a sudden. Bill - The sound of that unsilenced Holley and the large duals was just too inviting. Besides, it was only going to get 14 MPG at the best, and gas was $.25/gallon, so who cared? Hmmm, Big Blue might get 14 MPG when I'm done and I'm wanting more? An F250 (basically an F350) that probably will weigh 6000 #'s with a winch, aux battery, and several hundred pounds of tools might get what the car that weighed half that got?

I would have done that in two days when I was a little younger, but I think now I'd stretch it out over 3-4 days. Fingers crossed for Skiatook 2020. I certainly hope you make it, Cory! You too, Ron. But, I have to warn you that Mark/Dyn Blin hoped to come this year but couldn't, so might next. And the map shows him at 1797 miles away.

Good job on the repairs! Hope they hold up. I have a dash apart and should be able to confirm that there are nut clips on it. And, I'm going to do some work after a while on the master parts catalog and will try to find the part numbers for them.

Yes, Sea Foam will recommend their stuff. But it is really good. I had a C6 that hadn't been used in years and it wasn't shifting properly. Stopped and bought a can of Sea Foam, got in the truck and laid the can on the seat and the tranny never missed a beat after that. As for "big block" Chryslers and 4160's, in '68 the 335 HP 383's got that miserable carb and the 330 HP 383's got an AVS. In '69 it was exactly reversed, and my Bee was the 330 HP engine. Boy did I hate that carb. But, I will say that mine never had a chance to carbon up.

Ron, I'm a good 700 miles past you! I'm hoping to go next year and make some stops along the way. A little far off to confirm 100%, but I'm going to try. Cory - Google maps tells me you are 2238 miles away, the fastest way.

I vote for new calipers! If the bleeder screw broke it'll be hard to get it out cleanly. And calipers are cheap.

I have a 4180 on the shelf in the shop, and when I get out there later today I can measure the inlet fitting. But right now I'm drinking coffee and resting up. The weekend sure was fun, but I'm now TIRED. And I didn't drive more than a couple of miles, unlike some of y'all.

No matter how careful you WANT to be, accidents can happen. And if you accidentally slosh the water into the intake of a running engine, it doesn't run any more. So I've always used a common hand-pump spray bottle, with an adjustable nozzle. Start off with the nozzle screwed nearly closed (fine spray - hard to pull), and work your way up (heavy stream - easy to pull). That will prevent chunks, and hydraulic'ing the engine. What it does is lower the compression ratio by restoring the combustion chamber to its original size. Any buildup in it reduces its volume, increasing CR, which causes preignition/knock/ping/detonation/clatter/dieseling... I've never removed a cat before doing it, but I've only done it on EFIs. Sea Foam suggests using its product instead of water. The process is to get the engine warm, slowly pour the bottle into the intake on a running engine, and then shut it down and let it sit for X minutes. On my '82 Explorer, which was running very roughly, I chose to let it sit overnight. The next morning I fired it up and the smoke started rolling. I hopped in and took off and did a better job fogging out the mosquitoes than the city does. Other vehicles held back at least a block. But after about a mile either it burned out or the catalytic converter kicked in as the smoke stopped abruptly. However, it didn't make a bit of difference in the way the truck ran. Or, maybe I should say it didn't make enough difference to tell. Apparently Sea Foam won't cure bad valves and a flat cam.

Not only time-consuming and rewarding, but reliable. It will work when you get done and for decades afterward.

No, you don't owe me. I got a Beware Florida Man sticker. We are even. Sure glad you had no problems today.

Looks good! Mine had a broken tab, and the top was cracked in multiple places so I'll be on the lookout for a replacement as well. Shaun - I didn't realize the later harness could be used. That's good to know. And, good job!

I haven't been to/through Ralston for a few years, so don't know about antique stores. Last I knew there was only a cafe there. Probably a good idea to go back to 18 and that way to 60. Did you happen to see the signs going into Fairfax about the Tallchief sisters? At one time they were two of the top ballerinas in the world. One of them, Maria, even danced in Moscow's Bolshoi Theater.

Doubt it'll fit on top of the radiator support, but I will certainly check. But the crossmember is only one of the many areas Florida Man struck. I'd need one for the radiator support and both doors if the crossmember gets one. And who knows where else one is needed?

Actually, what I've read is that the feedback carbs do quite well w/o the ECU. Apparently the adjustment range is very small. Instead, I think it may be a timing problem. Anyway, hope it works when you try it.

I agree that it is a reasonable thing to do. But if you have 1 or 2 gallons left when it hits empty then you can loan it to someone and they won't run out. Dad didn't tell me about his '72 Mustang - until I ran out. I drove home and the gauge was just starting to touch the E. Shut it off and came out the next morning and it wouldn't start. THEN he told me.

Back in the day the Help section at the parts stores had fittings that went into the carb so you could use rubber hose. It isn't ideal, but it works. However, you can make your own hard line with enough line to mess up a few times. It isn't the most straightforward thing to do, but can be done.