Gary Lewis

I don't think those are stock, so I think something has been added. But it was well done as they don't call attention to themselves. However, I can't say the same for the wheels. And only two pics for something priced at $8k????? I've seen more pics on a $60 item. "Cold air intake"? I'll bet it is actually a hot air intake. But I can't tell that 'cause there are no pics of the engine.

I'll have to think about this. Not sure what way I want to go for Dad's truck, but I doubt I'll want to go double-DIN, so may want to keep it stock looking. As for Big Blue, I may eventually want to go double-DIN so I can put a backup camera on him. Especially if/when I get the rear bumper/spare tire carrier which will both stick out farther and limit vision.

While I would do the headlight relay upgrade, I know of members here who want to keep their trucks stock. And I can understand that. So I'm very sure not all would agree that it is a necessity. However, I believe it is something that can prevent damage to the truck in the way of melted wires or burned headlight switch. And, it makes driving at night safer because of the extra light it provides. And Shaun said on the thread about holes in doors that he's not seen cracked Bullnose doors. Nor have I. But I think that reinforcement panel might be a good addition to Big Blue. His doors have been butchered by and aren't as strong as they once were. And taking him overlanding will cause the doors to be opened and closed in all sorts of angles, which will place extra stress on them. As for the firewall reinforcement, I think it is prudent - on a truck with hydraulic clutch linkage. A lot of these trucks have had problems with cracked firewalls, which Ford acknowledged with their TSB, due to all of the fore/aft force centered on the clutch master cylinder. And the firewalls aren't getting any stronger over time. So why not add the reinforcement? Especially if, like I am on Big Blue, you are adding a heavy duty clutch which will increase the force. Concerning the headlights, I don't know that I'd put the H4 change in the "necessities" category - at least not stated that way. The bulk of H4 bulbs have the same wattage as a standard sealed beam headlight for our trucks. And the bulk of the shells/reflectors are effectively the same as those in our sealed beams. So just going "H4" doesn't mean you are upgrading. And while there are H4 bulbs with higher wattage, they aren't technically legal. On other hand, there are very good reflectors, like the Hella E-codes, and coupled with a strong bulb can give excellent lighting.

I hadn't heard of the doors cracking. I wonder if there's a TSB on that. (Angelo - I have all the TSB's but haven't scanned them in yet.) These are sold by Complete Performance and are made by Solo Motorsports. At $27 each it isn't bad but, like Shaun, I've not seen Bullnose doors crack. Anyway, here's what they look like and where they go:

Shaun - Yes, Bill/Numberdummy isn't very pleased with their pricing. Which is probably why they still have those. Angelo - I'm not sure I'm up to liking them every other day. And at $500/set I doubt I'll ever get to liking them 1/2 the time. Anyway, I've sent a request for pricing into both of those outfits and will let you know what they say.

Looks very good. But some of the negatives you stated worry me. I'd really like the radio to default to time. But if not I guess Dad's truck will have to have to keep its digital clock. Anyway, thanks for the report. How does it sound?

I bought a remanufactured unit from Cardone. Worked fine. But I suspect that their's aren't held to the tightest specs. So a Motorcraft would be a good choice if you want high quality.

I have this to-do on the new list. On Sat, Jan 18, 2020 at 11:29 AM swampedout [via Bullnose Enthusiasts] <redacted_email_address> wrote:

I’ve used this type a lot and it works well. Glad to see that it works well. Thanks. Now just to see if it'll go in there.

Yes, it has to be in there, but I'm hoping I can just flatten it. However, that's one of the reasons I want to be able to take it apart - so I can see what's in there.

Yes, that's a possibility. Surely with all the options I can find something that works.

The Inline Tube hoses swivel at the top end, so there's no worry about clocking. (In fact, the swivel is loose enough I wonder how it can be sealed.) As for greasing the ball joints, I've ordered this Lincoln fitting and will try it. But, one reason I bought it is that it appears to unscrew, so I can take it apart and machine the bottom of it flat.

I agree. Shaun - Thanks. I was typing when you were posting. Looks like we are in agreement.

I'm not sure how that would work. Sure there'd be quite a bit of clearance over the zerk when the axle is turned 45 deg from where Gary's picture shows. But there's still a U-joint in the way of getting a grease gun in there. Maybe it would work, and I'd certainly try it before the alternative of pulling the axle shaft out to grease the ball joint. But I don't think it'd be easy. And Gary, yes, I think those hoses will attach to your calipers fine (as long as diameters are correct, I can't tell that from here). And I'd modify the brackets (or use other brackets if available) to fit the round end. The only thing the D does that I can see is keep it from rotating. The only time it tries to rotate is when you are tightening or loosening that connection. And it's no where near strong enough for that, so you're gonna need to put a wrench on it anyway. Bob - Thanks. I hope to get the brake hoses sorted tomorrow. And, I'm hoping I also have the braided rear hose, but I've forgotten. As for the grease fitting, I'm thinking I'd be better off with these and use the needle: Or, stay with what I have and see if one of these will fit:

You could bond the backing panel on there with the adhesive used to put fenders et al on with.

I doubt just cutting the hole would be a problem. You should see the hole in Big Blue's doors. But if you cut out a piece from junk yard doors that should ensure there are no problems.

I don't think I'm sold on the look of these. (Sorry, Angelo.) They look like eyebrows. I was hoping for more like this:

David - Thanks, but if I understand that thing correctly it just relocates the grease fitting. Is that correct? If so, I'd rather not. As Jim said, I may be able to get between the knuckles of the u-joints. Or, find a low profile 90 degree fitting. Jim - Yes, these huge u-joints limit things quite a bit. Anyway, I moved on to the brake hoses. Vernon had supplied some nice Inline Tube Powerbraid hoses and I pulled the old hoses thinking I'd use the new ones - after I reacquainted myself with how to remove Ford brake hoses. Then I realized that the end that goes to the caliper is different. I think they'll work, but what say y'all? And, the frame ends are different as well. Ford's hoses have a flat on the fitting to go into the D-shaped hole in the bracket. But the new hoses are round. So I'm thinking I'll use the brackets I took off of Huck and make the holes round and use them. Thoughts?

Today has been a frustrating day. But I have to remember that two steps forward and one back is still progress. First, I set my fancy laptop up to be Janey's computer in her sewing room, but am having problems with it forgetting about the external monitor after a while. The computer appears to be going to sleep despite me having it set to NEVER. And when we wake it by moving the mouse it is in a new world. Second, went to the shop with the goal of getting the brakes and wheels on Big Blue today. Not going to happen. The first issue was that I couldn't find the pins the calipers slide on. (Yes, that's one of the nice features of the '95 D60 - it has the sliding calipers.) I turned the place upside down and cannot find the pins/bolts I took off. So I went to Amazon and they had some from several vendors that would fit. And the Dorman ones were said to be here tomorrow when I ordered them. But when the email came in it is going to be Wed or Thursday. I'm NOT playing that game, so canceled the order. And, since none of the other Amazon-sourced parts could be here any sooner I went to Rock Auto and ordered the Raybestos ones - although I don't know when they'll be here. Then I discovered that the upper ball joint's grease fitting hit the u-joint. In the pic below it is actually stuck, but I was able to get it unstuck and out. Then the question became how to get the smaller straight one in there. After trying with my fingers I tried this approach, and held it up in place with a screwdriver. It worked! And, here's the result, although I don't know how I'm going to grease it. Guess I'm done wrenching for the day.

https://www.rearcounter.com/E6TZ-16K140-A-parts259008.html https://www.rearcounter.com/E6TZ-16K140-B-parts259009.html Thanks, David!

Wow! That was a steal! Good job, David!

Wait! It's a six? My bad. But by '96, which is what my EVTM covers, the 300 in an F-Series was EEC-V with SEFI. So I don't have the specific schematics. However, we can probably get there using the 5.8L wiring - and just leaving a cylinder or two off.

Yes, most white wires I've seen of this age look yellow. And yes, all are hot and the computer grounds them.

I hope not as that would fire all 8 injectors at the same time. EEC-IV trucks have bank-fire injectors with half of the injectors having a tan wire from them, along with the common red, and the other half having a white wire as well as the red. Specifically, 1, 4, 5, & 8 have tan wires, and 2, 3, 6, & 7 have white wires - in addition to the common red wires.

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