Gary Lewis

High pitched noise from the valve cover? And air coming out? Sounds like the PCV valve isn't working. Anyway, you have a big weekend planned.

15A044 CIGAR LIGHTER KIT 80\ F—U100/350 EOTZ 15A044-A Consists of 1-D30Z 15052—A Knob and element 1-I.S. 4830 Instruction sheet 1-D9AZ 15055-A Socket and retainer

Jonathan - I can't get that bracket to go to the block any way I twist it. Do you remember where on the block? All - I think I may have figured things out on the needed hose. Let's see if I can articulate it..... The fitting that goes into this Saginaw is a 3/8" pipe fitting with a .375" OD tube. And the business end of the tube where the o-ring goes is .337", with the o-ring itself measuring .300 ID x .430 OD x .067" thick as best I can measure. The local parts stores don't have the right fittings, but recommended that I go to Ameriflex to have that fitting put on the end of the new hose. And, from the info that came with the hose, shown below, that is a Standard O-Ring Flare. So that left me trying to figure out what bends I want on it. I found this one up in the attic, and while its fitting is a flare instead of an o-ring flare, meaning it is probably the right end for Dad's truck, it does screw into the fitting so it let me mock it up. And here's a couple of shots of how it would fit. I'd been thinking that it should come out, turn right, then left/straight back and connect to the hose. What do you think? Just talked to the folks at AmeriFlex. They don't really bend up a whole new end. Instead they usually have 5 or 6 different bent ends for any given fitting, and will lay them out on the counter and let me pick one of them. But, they might be able to tweak one a bit. I doubt that they are going to have one as fancy as shown above. So I'm thinking of what will work. If they have one that'll do what is shown below it'll work great. But it only takes "5 minutes" once I pick one, so next week after the one comes in from Rock Auto I'll go down and see what we can do.

E2TZ 8146-C Height: 21 35/64" Width" 27 37/64" Bolt Hole Opening" 24" #E0TA-AA, E2TA-RA 80/81 F100/350 82/84 F100/350 82 F100 — Pony opt.

Jonathan - I can't get that bracket to go to the block any way I twist it. Do you remember where on the block? All - I think I may have figured things out on the needed hose. Let's see if I can articulate it..... The fitting that goes into this Saginaw is a 3/8" pipe fitting with a .375" OD tube. And the business end of the tube where the o-ring goes is .337", with the o-ring itself measuring .300 ID x .430 OD x .067" thick as best I can measure. The local parts stores don't have the right fittings, but recommended that I go to Ameriflex to have that fitting put on the end of the new hose. And, from the info that came with the hose, shown below, that is a Standard O-Ring Flare. So that left me trying to figure out what bends I want on it. I found this one up in the attic, and while its fitting is a flare instead of an o-ring flare, meaning it is probably the right end for Dad's truck, it does screw into the fitting so it let me mock it up. And here's a couple of shots of how it would fit. I'd been thinking that it should come out, turn right, then left/straight back and connect to the hose. What do you think?

Yep.

Ahhh! Dawn! Marblehead! Yes, we are now on the same page. Yes, Fuse Link T provides power to the pump while cranking. But if you crank it long enough the oil pressure should come up and, if there is sufficient battery power left, the pump will fill the carb. So, it should be hooked up, for sure.

I'm confused. I assumed you have an ammeter and the schematic below would be the correct one. And there is a blue fuse link, but it is Fuse Link S, not T. And it is yellow not pk/bk. So I'm lost. And, that can't be disconnected as you shouldn't be able to get the truck started since it provides power to the fuel pump. As for a hyperlink, if you use the '85 EVTM there is one called Index at the top of each section. Is that what you mean?

Jamie - There aren't all that many options. The M5OD-R2 is a good transmission, but with a healthy 351W and 35" tires I'd go ZF5 or ZF5. It'll bolt up perfectly, assuming you get one from a 300 six or Windsor. As for what you'll need, you'll need to move your crossmember back ~1". But, as you'll see in my thread on Big Blue's Transformation, you can reuse the crossmember itself as well as the gussets. You will also need the tall transmission cover, the hump in the floor, from a later truck with a ZF5 as your existing cover won't clear the ZF. Your existing transfer case will bolt onto the ZF, although the extra inch of rearward placement will probably mean you'll need to make the shift link adjustable. I'll show you how soon when I do it - again. Or, use the one I've already "adjusted" - if I can find it. But it is easy if you have a hacksaw and a welder. On the driveshaft, I didn't have to change it on Dad's truck and assume I won't on Big Blue, but we shall see.

Sorry Scott, what blue wire?

First, you are now on the map. As for the bracket, 3C511 is the generic part number for a power steering bracket on every Ford vehicle in the world. You need a prefix, like E7TZ, and a suffix, like E, to go with that to create the full part number. You can see that, sort of, in the illustration below that shows serpentine installations of the power steering pumps - both the F-Series and the E-Series brackets are 3C511, but they are clearly different as the pickups are shown with a C-II pump and the vans with a Saginaw. HOWEVER, I cannot give you the full part number as there seems to be a glitch in the master parts catalog - unless I'm blind. I'll post the whole section from the MPC below the illustration so maybe someone can see it. But I think you are looking for a bracket from an '88 or later E-series van with a 460 and A/C and I'm not seeing it.

Brandon - Glad you got it together. I'm going to put that new part # in my '95 factory shop manual, along with the correct torque spec's, which were also wrong. And, I think I'm glad that Jim convinced me to rebuild the calipers for the '95 D60 on Big Blue. It probably took me less time to powder coat and rebuild them than it took you to get the re-man'd calipers working.

Yes, that IS nice! But $35K? When Big Blackie went for $15K? I doubt it. Granted that's an earlier truck. And it has a Cummins w/a turbo. Hmmm, Big Blue will have a lot of that stuff and in some ways more. Like an EFI'd 460 w/a ZF5. On-board compressed air. On-board 110v AC. Winch. Hmmmm.....

If you are pulling things out, why not the seat(s) and carpet and apply the sound deadening to the floor as well? A lot of the road noise is said to come in that way, and certainly most of the drivetrain noise does. Also, I just posted about this on another thread, but you should consider a center channel speaker. If your amp doesn't have a center channel out you can achieve the same thing by feeding the minus signal from one side and the plus signal from the other to a single voice coil speaker. Or, you can buy a dual voice coil speaker and give it both channels. Put in the center of the dash you'll get what is common to both channels and it blends things together nicely.

You don't actually get stereo out of a single speaker. With a dual voice coil you get a mono sound that is what is common between the two channels. And that is effectively a center channel. An old-school trick to get a center channel is to feed the positive terminal from one side and the negative terminal from the other to a single speaker. That does much the same as the dual voice coil speaker. In either case, it works. I've done it many times. In fact, I'm running the minus from one and positive from the other configuration in my shop and the center channel does neatly enhance the sound. I plan to do that in my trucks.

Welcome, Tommy! Glad you joined. Where's home? I ask because we have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and I'd be happy to add you if I had a town. Were you the one wanting a Saginaw bracket for a 460? A '78 Bronco would be cool. And while both it and the '95 are a bit out of our area of expertise, we welcome all members.

You'd already asked him. Great!

If you are saying they are new drums, then they may not have been balanced from the factory. They won't wear very far out of balance, like Angelo said, but they may have gotten out of the factory w/o being balanced.

Yes, I found another hose I have that actually has a nylon gasket under the head of the fitting. So I realized that's how it seals there.

That's a diode and it absorbs the electrical surge when the field in the coil collapses when you turn the relay off. Not really necessary unless you have a computer. And some Bosch relays have them built in.

The setup looks good, and the fact that you didn't lose any smoke is wonderful! I'll bet it feels good to have power in it. (I can't wait!) That stud looks interesting. Looking forward to the part number and more info on it. On the headlight relays, did they put a pair on each side?

I don't know what the bracket is. Was hoping Jonathan knows since he pulled the pump off the van.

This is for the Dana 28, and that's not for our trucks.

Correct for the NP435

80/86 F-U150/350 - - 4/W/D w/ratio adapter-w/factory installed speed control E0TZ 9A820-A Lower-#E0TA-AA-60" long