Gary Lewis

Jim - I don't like that idea because it may make people think they've gotten the wrong thing, but I tried it just to prove it'll work. Go take a look: http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/1982-bronco.html And, it does work. So, that pretty much proves it is something to do with a first page scanned at too high of resolution. And the easy solution it to only scan at 300 dpi. But once we've looked at this one long enough I'll see if I can compress it a bit. Maybe that will solve the problem.

I don't see anything on the website that shows the alternator, P/S pump, and A/C compressor collectively. But I do see bits and pieces, so let me see if I can put something together. Meanwhile, if someone else knows or has them? Ok, I've found some illustrations in the master parts catalog and zoomed in and erased some extraneous things to get these. Here's the power steering pump" A/C Compressor as well as the power steering pump again: And here's the water pump, and here are the fasteners that are shown: 5/16"-18 x 1-1/2" G5 56124-S2 383765-S Bolt - Hex Hd. 5/16-18x3.625 5/16"-24 x 5" G5 300958-S HOWEVER, the MPC shows this for bolts for the 302's water pump. Last, I have this pic from one of my threads on FTE of how it all goes together. (Boy it chaps me that they won't let me copy the url and post the pic! )

Jochen - I got the email, but I'd prefer to answer your questions on here for two reasons. First, I don't think I know all the answers so need help from the others. Second, by answering them here others can benefit. Ok, you asked: I don't see anything on the website that shows the alternator, P/S pump, and A/C compressor collectively. But I do see bits and pieces, so let me see if I can put something together. Meanwhile, if someone else knows or has them?

Welcome! Glad you joined. We have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and I'd be happy to add you in Thomasville, GA if that's ok.

Glad the VIN isn't covered. Hope you get the fuel problem as well as the glow plugs/controller sorted quickly.

That IS good news! And yes, the difference is staggering. You'll really love it. Keep on keeping on!

Ok guys, school me on stainless. On the Fastenal site I get to this page which has one 3/8-16 selection, and it is 18-8. I found several results via a Google search, but the one at Bosun seems most helpful. And it has this statement: Is that accurate? I need 316 and not 18-8? Am I missing it at Fastenal?

The whistling implies it was you, David?

Bill - I'm not sure I understand what you said. The "non-CRES" bit of "or some B16 all thread, that is a high temperature non-CRES alloy" confused me. I think you are saying to use stainless but if I can't find a stainless all-thread to use a high-temp alloy and a stainless nut and washer. Is that right? Similarly, you said "304 or 316 condition B". Are you saying 304 is good or 316 condition B? I ask because I didn't understand Condition B and I found this at Diversified Metals and it says Condition B is a variant of 304. Jim - Are you saying I should ditch the whole set of L&L 12-points and go stainless the whole way? Did you use special bolts? 304? 316? Condition B?

Let us know how it works, Ron.

Jochen - No, I didn't get an email from you. Sorry. Just email me directly at janeyandgary@gmail.com. I'd be happy to hear from you. Things are fine here. How's western Germany? You recently had quite a storm, right?

Yes, welcome aboard! As for the truck, we aren't too up tight about that. We even have a moderator that doesn't have a Bullnose. Anyway, please post some pics. Where is home? We have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and I'd be happy to add you if I had a city. (No addresses.)

Nice looking truck! And not a bad price for such a clean vehicle.

That's cool! I didn't know that, and now can't wait to try it. Thanks.

I agree - belt or bearing, but lean to belt as it is smooth. Jim's got a good question about caps on the vacuum system. Check them. And if it isn't a belt or bearing then it may be time for the smoke test - seal the intake to the carb and blow smoke from a cigar into the engine and see where it comes out.

I think what Jonathan is saying is that these fuel gauges are not accurate and can easily show fuel when there is none. And, there were several different tanks and a myriad of senders. If you got the wrong one the pickup portion may not go to the bottom of the tank. You can check that out by looking in the tank with the tank and the fuel filler hose removed.

Welcome! Sure glad you joined. Where is home? We have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and I'd be happy to add you if I had a city. (No addresses.) That certainly IS a nice looking truck. Let's get its pic in here:

Good info! Thanks.

Bill - I have the original manifolds so can check if I want. But since I'm using headers that's a moot point. Which brings up a question. On that as well as at least two other spots I'll need to use a standard bolt instead of the 12-point fasteners that L&L sends. Are stainless fasteners the way to go?

Dane - It isn't a coating as it looks very good when you look at the pdf itself rather than the embedded image. Jonathan - You may be onto something. The page that looks good is scanned at 300 dpi and the one that looks blotchy is scanned at 600 dpi. But, the issue is only with the first page. You can shuffle 600 dpi pages all day long and the one that is first looks blotchy. However, if you go with 300 dpi the first page always looks good. So it looks like there is some algorithm that is compressing the first page in a way that makes it blotch if it is 600 dpi, but not so at 300 dpi. But why does it only happen with the first page? Anyway, I'm scanning at 300 using my own scanner, and will ask the professionals to go down to that when I have more scanned. But, I may be able to downgrade existing scans to get around the problem. We shall see. Thanks, guys!

LOL! Yes, he does. But that would be very, very painful. There's no seat, and given the tool box it would be a problem getting in - and out. And as soon as I got in I'd find I needed another tool. I can get in via the doors now, but it isn't easy. And what I'd really like to do is to stand on the floor with the truck up a bit so I'm looking up under the dash. But I can't easily get in that position right now with the door only opening a maybe 12", which doesn't let me get between the lift's arms. Tomorrow we are headed out to visit a cousin that's very ill, but I may get to try to get the firewall brace in on Saturday. We shall see.

I can't easily get into the cab because I can't get the doors open very far due to the lift's uprights. I can't get the truck far enough back to get them open much farther, and I doubt I can get it far enough forward to get them past the legs. So unless I can do that, and I'll try soon, I'll have to wait until the temps come up enough outside so I can open the door enough to stick the bed out under it. Until that I'll work on other things, and there are plenty of them.

Re-reading this post on FTE it looks like part of the problem is due to interference between the boots, causing me to move the boot a bit. But my rememberer says part of the problem is also due to the extra ~1" between the shift lever's pivot point and the t-case, which put the lever in the wrong position. In either case, the pictures of the way I adjusted the linkage are on that post, as are pics of the two different transmission covers. (I really dislike the fact that FTE doesn't allow copying a link to a pic so you can post it elsewhere.)

You can read about my change from two-bolt to three-bolt mirrors on this thread on FTE.

No, you don't need a Phd in wiring. You just need to be thorough and organized.