franken truck

As said, swapping the main harness & dash converts from idiot light to gauges.  But I'm not sure what would be involved in adding the A/C back.  

Maybe someone else knows?

i posted frank to the for sale area. ty everyone, hope he finds a good home

ok all, well the truck market has seemed to tank so i dont see me selling the truck right now, so im gonna keep wrenching on it, the carb is messed up and instead of making the truck better ive made it worse. with all the problems, do you think it would be worth it to purchase a efi kit and install that to fix the running issues? ive held off because theres just so many unknowns going on with this thing and i didnt want to drop 1k dollars into a grave truck. maybe i should just donate the truck to good will.  whats the cheapest efi kit i can get to put on frank?

please don't.  let's see if we can help you with a little coaching. if it is truly a carb issue then you should be able to solve that. if it's bigger than the carb then the EXPENSE won't solve it anyway.  what engine is it? what carb? what transmission? what type of fuel delivery ? etc.

I'm with Mat.  Carbs are cheap to repair/rebuild.  And if it is a bigger problem EFI isn't going to fix it.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/rauLEgdyusVokaF19

Well this was today if I put some fuel in the bowl it works for a little bit there is no pipe for the hot pipe for the electric choke  was never there before. I think l I have bad gas. I was told it's fine by a mechanic but I don't think so. It smells like vinegar. I appreciate everyone helping with this

ford 4.9, carter yf knockoff, fuel bulb from boat tank, manual trans, unknown what model. ill upload pics of the screws later

this is about as basic of an engine as it gets. this carb should be able to run the engine well. the things to verify are fuel quality. fuel delivery. vacuum control. spark plugs. get a gas can and run the tank side of the fuel pump to the gas can. you may need a few feet of fuel line from the parts store. this should eliminate fuel quality from the diagnosis. also, it will tell if the fuel pump is working.
make sure the carb hold down nuts are snug. don't over tighten! look around for any vacuum ports that may have caps or hoses missing. I usually cap every one of them including the two large ones for the brake booster and pcv. prove the engine and carb first then add the pcv. then add the brake booster. then add the hose to the tree on the firewall which goes to the hvac vacuum controlled damper servos.  in that order.  
 a good primary setting for the idle air fuel screw is generally to run it in until the screw gets snug. again, don't over tighten. it can do damage.  then back the screw out 1 1/2 turns. this is not tuning but just a place to start.

Hi TechGuy!
I agree that scrapping the carb and going with EFI is an aggressive action in this situation. By the time you work out fuel tanks and pumps, get your ignition to work out and get the thing running on EFI youd have much more in it that what you paid for the truck Im afraid.

What is the engine/carb doing now that it didnt do before?

If you want to spend a little bit of money to help yourself get a better grip on tuning the carb you could always install a wideband o2 sensor which would let you see what your AFR is at all times. You could accomplish that for well under $300.

If you want a 300 granny 4 speed 4x4, you have it! Id try to fix the truck if you can figure out how to do it for a reasonable cost. The easiest thing to do might be to remove the cab and wiring harness, get down to the drivetrain sitting on a frame, then put a donor cab/harness on all at once from a donor with a clean VIN.

Ive never done what I just suggested so take it with a grain of salt! Good luck!

thats a neat idea. thanks.  i wanted to also let everyone know that i successfully removed and install a new column in frank this weekend and i got her running and from what i can hear shes idling pretty good now.  now for the bad news.  brake booster is full of fluid but peddle goes all the way to the floor. not that big of a deal but ugh. clutch depresses but i can shift her in and out of gear (dont worry i didnt do it while running) without depressing the clutch, ugh x2. thinking if the clutch needs replacing maybe i could swap in a aod (i have one already) or a c6 trans and install a floor shifter, since i have the manual shifter hole. its a thought. my knees and shoulders would probably be happier. anyways heres a vidof her running now. im so happy.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/mG29May2KYgW2YyR8

Congrat's!!!  

But peeling the onion, crying, peeling, and crying some more are part of the restoration process.  However, in the end you'll get to enjoy a Bloomin' Onion!

first off good job on getting it running. second, depressing the clutch lever in order to change gears is only necessary with the engine running. all good. swapping it to an auto is a preference to each his own. I am doing one and I'm also doing a three to four swap manual.  I like them all. I generally build an aod for any resto mod that I intend to sell though but only because it is a far bigger pool of potential drivers.