Why two vacuum lines from distributor?

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Re: Why two vacuum lines from distributor?

FrazerJames
I got a lot of this set up last night thanks to your help! I do have one question though - do you think I should put an inline fuse between the battery and the relay? Right now I plan to have it run straight to the battery.
1983 Bronco 4.9 300 I6
Current Name: Whitney
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Re: Why two vacuum lines from distributor?

Gary Lewis
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I doubt you were asking me, but I vote YES!  Put a fuse between the battery and the relay.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

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Re: Why two vacuum lines from distributor?

FrazerJames
Easy enough!! :)
1983 Bronco 4.9 300 I6
Current Name: Whitney
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Re: Why two vacuum lines from distributor?

FrazerJames
In reply to this post by Rusty_S85
I think I’m all set up thanks to your help Rusty!

Last thing - the biggest advantage of setting up that A/C cutoff is to have more power at WOT, correct? Otherwise it isn’t doing much, right?
1983 Bronco 4.9 300 I6
Current Name: Whitney
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Re: Why two vacuum lines from distributor?

Rusty_S85
FrazerJames wrote
I got a lot of this set up last night thanks to your help! I do have one question though - do you think I should put an inline fuse between the battery and the relay? Right now I plan to have it run straight to the battery.
If you mean for the main power feed to the sniper yes you should have a fuse there to protect the sniper circuit.  The trigger wire you dont have to put a fuse in it since it is fused via the ignition switch itself but it wouldnt hurt if you wanted to fuse the wire as well.

FrazerJames wrote
I think I’m all set up thanks to your help Rusty!

Last thing - the biggest advantage of setting up that A/C cutoff is to have more power at WOT, correct? Otherwise it isn’t doing much, right?
The cut out you will have to use a laptop to set the specs for it cause not all sniper installations will hit 100% on the TPS.  So what you will have to do is look at your TPS go wide open throttle and if it shows say 85% then I would set the cut out trigger to be 75%  That way it will trigger around 90% of full throttle if that makes sense.

The point of the cut out would be to take the AC clutch drag off the engine in a passing situation to give you more power and acceleration to pass someone.  If you are using a sanden style compressor if you upgraded to late model system then you wont really notice a difference as the sandens dont eat up a lot of power.  If you have a old dealer installed unit using a old York compressor then you will notice a difference as they take a few hp away from the engine to turn.

Out side of that the AC cut out relay will just sit there deactivated majority of the time, its why you have to use 87A pin the center most pin as that pin is hot all the time that way you will have a complete circuit, the sniper typically provides a ground for most of these features so youll need your trigger side to have a ignition hot, another plus to having a ignition hot relay as you can use the same trigger to provide a trigger for the other relays so all the sniper has to do is simply apply a ground when the requirements are met to activate.
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