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T2K-CAR

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Gary Lewis

Re: T2K-CAR

Administrator

Yep, a mill makes work like that very clean. Nice straight lines. But setup is tedious. For something like your panel I'd affix it to a sacrificial piece of wood and mill both the panel and some of the wood at the same time.

The only problem is the corners, which will be rounded. So if you want square corners you'll have some file work to do. Or, if you are ok with rounded you may want to use a small diameter mill, and then you have to go SLOWLY or you'll break the mill. I broke a 1/8" mill the other day cutting out the template for my radio bezel. I had the RPM too low and even with the very, very slow feed it broke.

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

ArdWrknTrk

Re: T2K-CAR

Administrator

You were milling in plastic?

I'd go as fast as I could without melting.
An air nozzle if you don't have a spray lubricant setup will at least get the chips out of there, so they don't get cut again and again.

Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake.
Too much other stuff to mention.

Gary Lewis

Re: T2K-CAR

Administrator

I milled out a template in aluminum, got it to fit, and then used that to lay out the plastic. And I had to use the Dremel on the plastic as I couldn't get it in the mill due to its shape.

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

ArdWrknTrk

Re: T2K-CAR

Administrator

Dremel makes a little router base for their tool.
Put a collar in the base or a ball bearing on the shank of the bit.

Of course this means you need to make the template bigger by the difference in radius between the bit and bearing....

Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake.
Too much other stuff to mention.

grumpin

Re: T2K-CAR

Nice work Bill! I agree doing things by feel when driving is nice. Don’t have a touch screen yet.

Dane
1986 F250HD SC XLT Lariat 4x4 460 C6-Sold
1992 Bronco XLT 4x4 351W E4OD
1998 GMC Sierra SLE K1500 350 4L60E
Arizona

85lebaront2

Re: T2K-CAR

Administrator

Thanks Dane and Semper Fi from a Motor T Chief.

Bill AKA "LOBO" Profile

"Getting old is inevitable, growing up is optional" Darth Vader 1986 F350 460 converted to MAF/SEFI, E4OD 12X3 1/2 rear brakes, traction loc 3:55 gear, 160 amp 3G alternator Wife's 2011 Flex Limited Daily Driver 2009 Flex Limited with factory tow package Project car 1986 Chrysler LeBaron convertible 2.2L Turbo II, modified A413

grumpin

Re: T2K-CAR

Semper Fi! Motor T rocks!

Dane
1986 F250HD SC XLT Lariat 4x4 460 C6-Sold
1992 Bronco XLT 4x4 351W E4OD
1998 GMC Sierra SLE K1500 350 4L60E
Arizona

85lebaront2

Re: T2K-CAR

Administrator

Ok, now I am almost finished. I ended up using another piece of the flat section from the 1986 dash. The reason is attaching it and making the mounting for the front "invisible" is easier. I will use some small (6-32 probably) flat head Phillips or Torx screws that I can countersink, jam nut on the back and once they are in I can cover the front with a piece of Vinyl or similar in black, preferably a semi gloss so it won't be bright in the sun. On the back side on the assembly I will use nuts, flat washers and lock washers. The only piece that will require removal of the front is the hazard switch, the dimmer and rear window defroster switches come out from the back and the power point socket comes out one piece in each direction.

If you look in the power point socket, it was a lighter socket, with bad bi-metal springs for the lighter element. Since the springs were extremely rusty and one broke when I touched it, I removed them so it can't be used as a lighter socket. Cleaned the brass center contact and the inside of the socket and it works perfectly.

Bill AKA "LOBO" Profile

Gary Lewis

Re: T2K-CAR

Administrator

Looking great, Bill!

And the plan on the fasteners sounds good as well. Good plan, Stan.

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

ArdWrknTrk

Re: T2K-CAR

Administrator

In reply to this post by 85lebaront2

Progress is Good, Bill!

I've never thought of the difference between a power point and a lighter socket, but today I learned something.
Thank You!

Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake.
Too much other stuff to mention.

85lebaront2

Re: T2K-CAR

Administrator

Jim, for future reference, pictures of the good lighter socket and the bad one. A parts store power point is usually just the inner and outer shells with a plastic insulated center contact and no bimetal fingers.
First the bad one:

And the good one:

Bill AKA "LOBO" Profile

85lebaront2

Re: T2K-CAR

Administrator

I wasn't able to find a sheet of black Vinyl at Ace Hardware here in Exmore and don't really feel like buying 30 assorted colors to get one piece. I have some Scotch 2" wide fairly heavy black tape. Unfortunately the panel is close to 3 1/2" top to bottom so I had to overlap it. It was to get an idea of the final appearance.

Panel assembled:

Panel in the center stack to be installed in the car:

Bill AKA "LOBO" Profile

Gary Lewis

Re: T2K-CAR

Administrator

Looks good, Bill. But are you going to pull that and replace it? If so, what with?

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

ArdWrknTrk

Re: T2K-CAR

Administrator

I can probably scrounge up a piece of 'grained' ABS in black.
What is the overall size (rounded up) of that panel, Bill?

Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake.
Too much other stuff to mention.

85lebaront2

Re: T2K-CAR

Administrator

The widest is at the top 8", height is 3 1/2" the only issue might be attaching it, there are 5 #6-32 X 3/4" flat head Phillips screws that are covered by the tape. The panels are 3/32" thick and there is a 3/32" gap between them. I countersunk the screws so they are flush with the panel front panel.

Bill AKA "LOBO" Profile

ArdWrknTrk

Re: T2K-CAR

Administrator

I will have a look and see what I can scrounge.

Are you saying 3/32 would be ideal?
Or that you already have over a 1/4 and need something as thin as possible?
Maybe a swatch of Naugahyde?

Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake.
Too much other stuff to mention.

85lebaront2

Re: T2K-CAR

Administrator

3/32" thick is what I have now (it's actually 2mm) as I made them from parts of the old 1986 burgundy dash. If you have a piece of the hide from a wild Nauga, that would work as it can be attached with plyobond (sticky yellow stuff).

Bill AKA "LOBO" Profile

Gary Lewis

Re: T2K-CAR

Administrator

If we are into mythical creatures like Naugas, that plyobond is aka gorilla snot.

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

ArdWrknTrk

Re: T2K-CAR

Administrator

I always thought it was 'Pliobond' in the little tin tubes.
Haven't seen that in decades but remember dipping the spout and threads in Vaseline to be able to get the cap off next time.

The Naugha's natural habitat is on the tree lined banks of the scenic Naugatuck River, right here in Connecticut!
They are not as elusive as the unicorn, and were decimated because of their trusting nature, much like the Blue Footed Booby.

Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake.
Too much other stuff to mention.

Gary Lewis

Re: T2K-CAR

Administrator

That's the stuff! The little self-healing little tin tubes. What a surprise when one of those creases sprung a leak and got it on your hands, which then got it on whatever you were working on. But next time around that leak had sealed up.

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

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