Bullnose Enthusiasts Forum

Rear Brake Drums

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Frank Wyatt

Re: Rear Brake Drums

FWIW, doing all that work to convert your rear drum brakes to disc is a lot of work for little if any benefit. Especially using an after market kit. Your rear brakes do contribute to your stopping ability, but you would never be able to notice the difference between the rear drum brakes from rear disc brakes if your factory brakes are working correctly. If it were me, I would make sure your brakes shoes have adequate friction material, if not replace them with a quality set of shoes. Also do not forget about the springs and replace ALL of your brake hardware with brand new and lubricate all the contact points. Once that is done, adjust your new brake shoes correctly and they will be reliable for many years. Another thing I like to do is while I'm in there I always replace my wheel cylinders. As inexpensive as they are, it just makes sense to me, but that's if it was me doing it.

1981 F 150 Custom 300 ci with a fully rebuilt 1968 240 head Carter YFA T-18 3.25 9" rear 2WD
dual gas tanks
1990 Lincoln Town Car 5.0 AOD
Home town Mc Kenzie, TN

Ford F834

Re: Rear Brake Drums

Administrator

The late Econoline disc brake Dana axles have slip-over rotors. That rotor is actually the one used in the conversion kits. However I have to agree with white knight. Disc conversion is not “all that” compared to properly serviced rear drums. If you want better performance convert to hydroboost. My interest in rear disc has more to do with ease of service and inspection than it does performance. If anything I was more looking forward to improved parking brake performance via secondary mechanical calipers. However, the parts I wanted added up to over a grand vs. around $125 to service what I have.

SHORT BED 4-DOOR DIESEL: 1986 F350 4x4 under construction-- 7.3 IDIT ZF5+GVOD

STRAIGHT SIX 4X4: 1981 F150 2wd to 4x4-- 300 I6 close ratio diesel T19, hydroboost brakes, Saginaw steering

BIG F: 1995 F-Superduty under construction— converting to 6.9L IDI diesel ZF5+DNE2

Gary Lewis

Re: Rear Brake Drums

Administrator

I'm following this and thought I'd chime in. Big Blue, with his 10 1/4" Sterling, has a parking brakes that WORK. It doesn't take much pedal at all and the rears will NOT turn. In fact, it is hard to bring them on w/o having the rears lock.

However, overall I'm not impressed with the brakes, so am doing as Jonathan suggested - going to hydroboost. Everything I've read says that makes a dramatic difference.

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

ArdWrknTrk

Re: Rear Brake Drums

Administrator

Gary,

The regular 10.25 drum brake rear doesn't seem to have any problems with a parking brake.
Converting from drum to disc is where the problem lies.

The only problems I've had with mine are the pinion yoke loosening (early, short spline) and the hub seals.
Updated (Scott type) seal within a seal seem to have solved the problem of gear oil getting into the drums.

Discs would certainly make brake service easier and eliminate any adjustment of the primary braking system.
But again, "not all that" IMO

Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake.
Too much other stuff to mention.

Gary Lewis

Re: Rear Brake Drums

Administrator

Jim - Thanks for the clarification. My misunderstanding.

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

85lebaront2

Re: Rear Brake Drums

Administrator

In reply to this post by Gary Lewis

When I installed the later housing in Darth (apparently a 1993 or early 1994) I found that instead of the 2 1/2" wide shoes on the rear brakes that came on the 1986 DRW trucks, it had 3 1/2" wide shoes which really increased the rear braking, yet generally will not lock up on hard braking. I had already installed the 1990 booster so I could use the later master cylinder with the extra port for the speed control "dump" switch. This is also where my old fashioned hydraulic trailer brake controller is plumbed in. This part is in the same vein as Jonathan's cost vs effectiveness, to even begin to approach the smoothness and ease of balance this has, an all electronic one is in the $$$$$ range. This is also one of the big reasons I do not want a newer truck, 1986 was the last year with no ABS of any kind.

Bill AKA "LOBO" Profile

"Getting old is inevitable, growing up is optional" Darth Vader 1986 F350 460 converted to MAF/SEFI, E4OD 12X3 1/2 rear brakes, traction loc 3:55 gear, 160 amp 3G alternator Wife's 2011 Flex Limited Daily Driver 2009 Flex Limited with factory tow package Project car 1986 Chrysler LeBaron convertible 2.2L Turbo II, modified A413

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