Power Windows

My truck came with the aftermarket power windows - the ones where a remote motor does the cranking for you with the manual regulator.
I removed those during the disassembly of the truck and installed the factory setup during reassembly.

Today I installed the drivers side window and got to test it out. There were a few things that stood out. I want to test tomorrow with loosening up the front and rear channel bolts so that may impact some of this as right now they are bolted down in the same spots as before (based on the washer grooves).
The motors I got online, were well reviewed, and seem to work fine. Installed new sweeps and channel/run weatherstripping so this new tightness might contribute to some of this.

The only power window Bullnose truck I have been in was my dad's while growing up and it's sitting in a field right now at my parents so I can't test with it.

1. The windows roll up with a constant speed but aren't super fast and sound like the motors are straining a bit. 

2. In the full up position, the windows are tight and push the top weather stripping up into the channel a little. Not considering this a bad thing as it seems to seal well but just wanted to mention it. The concern is that the inner door panel flexes out noticeably when the window is pushed as far to the top as it will go for the motor to stop. Normal?

3. When coming down the windows look good to the point where they are even/level with the door. I wish it would stop at that point. Instead it goes further down and the back edge (latch edge) goes quite a bit lower than the front edge. Additionally, when it's as far down as it will go and I look at the bottom of the channel (latch edge), the glass, because it's tilted back, is out of the channel and titling toward the exterior of the door. The front channel (vent window) also flexes quick a bit when the glass is about to the end of the travel. If I could somehow stop the motor earlier it would prevent this scenario.

Tomorrow afternoon when I test it I may try to take some videos as I am not sure I explained #3 well and it would also benefit 1 and 2.

That sounds like mine now with new seals. Actually gave them another shot of silicone the other day.

Funny, I thought they went down far, but I think my Bronco does the same.

When I first got the truck my son commented on how fast the windows went up and down. I said it’s because the seals are shot and there’s no friction.

When it’s real cold they can be painfully slow going up.

Hey Dane.
Glad to know it's not just me (misery loves company?).
Are you applying the silicone to the tracks with the window down or is your inner panel off?
Curious if you saw the same flex.

kramttocs wrote

Hey Dane.
Glad to know it's not just me (misery loves company?).
Are you applying the silicone to the tracks with the window down or is your inner panel off?
Curious if you saw the same flex.

In the tracks with the window down.

Good to know Steve. My Broncos passenger side is real slow...wait I ordered a motor for it. That’s right, Tuesdays project.

Funny told my wife I ordered a window motor for the Bronco and of course she says, oh yeah my Suburban window isn’t working!

Misery does love company!

Yeah, thanks Steve. Appreciate the info.

Dane - now the question is which one will get done first?

Looking forward to some weather where the windows can be down.

grumpin wrote

kramttocs wrote

Hey Dane.
Glad to know it's not just me (misery loves company?).
Are you applying the silicone to the tracks with the window down or is your inner panel off?
Curious if you saw the same flex.

In the tracks with the window down.

Good to know Steve. My Broncos passenger side is real slow...wait I ordered a motor for it. That’s right, Tuesdays project.

Funny told my wife I ordered a window motor for the Bronco and of course she says, oh yeah my Suburban window isn’t working!

Misery does love company!

when my dad's Bronco's passenger side window was slow he would just yell at me to turn the handle faster

When you replace motors, use motors and regulators for 05/92 and newer - they're sooo much faster!
Also, the doors deforming when the window hits the up stop is perfectly normal...

Great to know on both both accounts! Direct bolt in and just need some wire connector modifications?

TheScatch - my dad always said the same in his 79 F250
Since you posted that I've been trying to think of the other phrases regarding manual windows but have been drawing a blank. One had to do with arm or muscle power and the other was for the lack of a/c. Something like 2-65 a/c. Meaning 2 windows down driving 65mph. Those aren't quite right and it's bugging me.

We used to call that "440 A/C", but in a regular cab that doesn't quite work unless you count vent windows.

Haha that does roll off the tongue better.

Armstrong steering? No power steering.

Edit: The new motor in the Bronco works good!

grumpin wrote

Armstrong steering? No power steering.

Edit: The new motor in the Bronco works good!

I also heard of "Armstrong heater"
When you had no heat in your ______ and your girl was cold she would slide over close to you and you would put your arm around her to keep her warm
That was when everything had bench seats.
Dave ----

Back to fighting this.
The drivers window is working really well. The passenger won't go up or down fully and what little it does move is a strain. The wiring at the passenger door switch gets pretty warm during.
I hooked direct power and ground to the motor last night and it helped but still struggles a lot.

In addition to this, whether a coincidence or not the power lock on the passenger side is slow also. Once I work it a few times it either gets a little better or stops responding completely.

Back to the window, I've loosened both the front and rear guide but that seemed to make it worse since it now gets much more crooked.

Is the direct power test to the window motor about the best thing there is?

I want to add in my remote locks/windows but don't want to do that until they actually work

My drivers door lock is slow, when cold really slow. Helps to go unlock then lock again. Seems to work better when it’s warm out.

Also works better from the passenger side switch.

There was a lock switch and drivers window switch in the truck when I got it. Needed to replace the window switch, also did the lock switch, seems a little better.

I would think the direct power test is the best you can do.  And if it doesn't roll up properly then you probably have a problem.

I re-read your earlier post and understand that you got aftermarket motors and put them in the factory setup.  And you have new sweeps.  But it is still very slow.

I've only had one Bullnose truck with power windows, and they were slow but worked.  So I'm not much help.  But have you tried lubricating the window/sweeps with silicone spray?

Got back to this finally. Silicone spray made a world of difference. The windows go up and down smooth and fast. Which is nice since I haven't installed the a/c components yet so a lot of driving with the windows down.

Question for those with from the factory power windows - on the driver side switch when looking at it head on, which toggle is for which window?

Left being the one closest to you when sitting in the drivers seat
Right being the furthest one (closes to the speaker)

Forward one is drivers, rearward one is pass. on mine.

Edit: I’m always using the wrong one!

Thanks Dane for the quick response!
That's how mine is also. It's a factory harness so figured it had to be right but sure is taking me some getting used to. I keep wanting to hit the rear/left one for the drivers side since it is closest to me.
Minor inconvenience I know but thinking I may repin the connector at the switch.

Just saw your edit after I posted

Glad to know it's not just me!

Ha! I have my moments, but usually it’s just