Other Projects - Car and Non Car Related

Gary Lewis wrote

Angelo Voltura wrote

Part me says stop over thinking and keep it simple for sake of relability, part of me wants to spend money on go fast parts.


EDIT:

After doing a little research I believe I can modify the end of my sending unit to adapt a -6an fitting to the 3/8 tube. So I think I will order a stock replacement tank and plumb the sending to a section of braided hose, to hardline to the pump, then hose to the pump, then hose from the pump to the carb.

I think your edit puts you on a reasonable path.  And, this isn't a "go fast" part.  The truck isn't going to go any faster with either tank.  So go with a stockish setup and put your money where it will matter.

Well I managed to source a new fuel tank from Rock Auto; $78 shipped. That was a deciding factory in itself, even though I'm still working out the plumbing I've got a pretty good idea how I want to lay it out. You are right that the cell isn't really racey  My only thing is that if I get this thing fast enough is that the track is going to want me to have one per IHRA rule. It's not there yet but I am already dabbling into helmet/shaft loop territory.

Looking at these fittings, they do make a 3/8 tube to -6an hose adapter, and the only modification I need to make to my sending unit is trimming off the end of the tube where the flare is so that the fitting can slide over it. Inside it uses a brass compression sleeve. I'm not a fan of using compression fittings on brakes, but in a low pressure system I believe it will be fine (6-7psi).

The only thing I am working out now is how/where to put a 1/8 npt fuel pressure gauge somewhere in that circuit.

That's a good price, for sure.

As for the fitting, if you are using a mechanical pump, like I think you are, then there's actually vacuum and not pressure at the sending unit.

Gary Lewis wrote

That's a good price, for sure.

As for the fitting, if you are using a mechanical pump, like I think you are, then there's actually vacuum and not pressure at the sending unit.

Duh, I knew that. It's been a long day

Yes, I am using a Carter mechanical pump. 25gph/6psi.

I am going to keep my 1406 carburetor, I'm looking at a fuel line kit for $40 that has a screw in filter to the end of the line. Looks like they make an adapter that has a female end to screw on to the filter than has a 1/8" NPT port on it for a gauge and then a male end to fit the hose.

This is my first time really dabbling into AN fittings, for both me and dad since he is using them on his truck now that its getting EFI.

Does anyone have any experience here with plate nitrous kits? The price is so cheap it's very tempting to throw one on my 351M for the hell of it. I'm new to the bottle and would like to know more about them.

This is new to me as of this past weekend, All is good with is except unexplained noise coming from rear of motor and front of V-drive. It will be coming apart this weekend for diagnosing. But for now I am super Excitedas this is my first Bay boat.

Tell us more about it, Greg.  I'm familiar with boats, but don't recognize that one.  Is it called a "sedan cruiser"?  Somehow that description sticks in my mine.

My biggest project for the past 6 years has been building a replica of an 80's-era rally car. This was the last RWD car to win the world rally championship, back in 1983. After that, the Audi Quattros ruled supreme. The car is the Lancia 037, I am building the "Stradale" (Italian for "street") version, which was the homologated street version that they had to sell 200 of before they could go racing with the rally version. You basically start with a Lancia Scorpion, hack off the front and back and start with just the passenger tub. From there tubular steel subframes are constructed and fiberglass clamshell body panels go over that. Here is a picture of a real Stradale. They go for between half a million and a million, if you can find one.



My engine choice is not exactly conventional, they originally came with a 2l inline 4 with a roots blower, kind of an ugly, asymmetrical lump. I decided to go with a first gen Ford Taurus SHO 3l V6, built by Yamaha, and mated to a Porsche Boxster transaxle. I hope to finish it in about 2-3 years. Here is a fairly recent photo, with the clamshells open.



I've been blogging about it for the whole build here: https://projectscorpion.wordpress.com/

That's a cool project, Pete.  I recognize the car from having read about the rallys when we lived in the UK in the 80's.  But that is quite an undertaking.

As for the SHO engine, that's a good choice.  They are potent.  But, if you get an offer from our member ctubutis to drive it don't let him.  He blew his brother's SHO up!  However, last I knew he had one running in his Taurus and another one stashed away.

My wife wanted a greenhouse. I was brought up growing veggies and what not, so I obliged... I found a ski gondola on Craigslist for $50. So $150 of acrylic and rivets later, we have a little greenhouse..

That is cool! A unique greenhouse. Showed my wife, she wants a greenhouse  too.

That's cool!  So, a green house equals a Bronco?

Angelo Voltura wrote

Does anyone have any experience here with plate nitrous kits? The price is so cheap it's very tempting to throw one on my 351M for the hell of it. I'm new to the bottle and would like to know more about them.

I ran one on a 83 Toyota L/C straight 6 motor when I raced the truck off road, sand drag, hill climbs. I also had a Holley 2300 v2 carb and headers the rest of the motor was factory stock.
This was back in the late 70's early 80's and there was not a lot of information out about the systems.
I never had any issues with how it ran / worked.

I can tell  you it should have it's own fuel supply when the NOS system is armed.
This way unless the NOS fuel pump fails you will not run lean when spraying.
You will need to run a  colder plug and turn back the timing, think it was 2* for every 100 hp of spray but check on that. You also want the RPM up before the spray is added.

Today they have all kinds of controllers & switches.
Run a colder plug and a controller with a switch on the carb so when at full throttle the controller will cut back the timing and start to spray.

My truck had 2 electric fuel pumps. 1 to feed the carb and the other just for the NOS.
The 2nd pump had a main "arm" switch that turned on the NOS only fuel pump.
I had a button on the shifter handle, 3sp stick floor shift, and once I left the hole, RPM up, I hit the button. We ran low range and started in 2nd gear so it was a straight back shift to 3rd till the run was over.

I would never go thru all that work "just to have it" and depending on the type of racing it might not be allowed in your class. If running brackets, drag racing, it can never run the same number each run with spray so if you want to go rounds don't use NOS.

Now if you still want to run spray the last thing you have to worry about is where to get the tank(s) filled?
When we (race team and 3 of us ran spray till our class would not allow it) we had a welding supply that would fill them for us (medical grade) but they knew us for buying other supplies.
Today I don't know if they can fill them (law?) as the NOS used in spray has something added that will make people that may use it for "fun" sick and not use it or they could die.

I have heard of some speed shops, are there any left?, had large tanks they could fill the small one from but again where is a speed shop?

So how is spray look now
Dave ----

FuzzFace2 wrote

Angelo Voltura wrote

Does anyone have any experience here with plate nitrous kits? The price is so cheap it's very tempting to throw one on my 351M for the hell of it. I'm new to the bottle and would like to know more about them.

I can tell  you it should have it's own fuel supply when the NOS system is armed.
This way unless the NOS fuel pump fails you will not run lean when spraying.
You will need to run a  colder plug and turn back the timing, think it was 2* for every 100 hp of spray but check on that. You also want the RPM up before the spray is added.

I have no problem running a second fuel pump, the only issue with that is trying to make that work with a single feed sending unit unless I put a hole in the bottom of the tank. Colder plugs and pulling timing isn't an issue.

FuzzFace2 wrote

Today they have all kinds of controllers & switches.
Run a colder plug and a controller with a switch on the carb so when at full throttle the controller will cut back the timing and start to spray.

My truck had 2 electric fuel pumps. 1 to feed the carb and the other just for the NOS.
The 2nd pump had a main "arm" switch that turned on the NOS only fuel pump.
I had a button on the shifter handle, 3sp stick floor shift, and once I left the hole, RPM up, I hit the button. We ran low range and started in 2nd gear so it was a straight back shift to 3rd till the run was over.

This truck is running a 25gph mechanical pump. I run a B&M ratchet shifter so locating a button shouldn't be hard. My main thing is I'm just wondering how to go about setting it up so it can be reliable. The system will eventually be transferred over to a built big block, but I'd like to have it setup on this motor so it's usable and ready to go. I've never set one up before, so I'd like to really learn what I have to do. The Powershot kits seem to be fairly simple.

FuzzFace2 wrote

I would never go thru all that work "just to have it" and depending on the type of racing it might not be allowed in your class. If running brackets, drag racing, it can never run the same number each run with spray so if you want to go rounds don't use NOS.

This will be 95% used on the street to fool around with more than running at the track. It will make passes but most of my driving is back road bombing and stop light racing. Part of the reason I want it is because I've never had it, the other is for bragging rights to put my friends in their place  Plus, the ladies like going fast it seems ;)

It all honesty though its more of a "just because" than anything.

FuzzFace2 wrote

Now if you still want to run spray the last thing you have to worry about is where to get the tank(s) filled?
When we (race team and 3 of us ran spray till our class would not allow it) we had a welding supply that would fill them for us (medical grade) but they knew us for buying other supplies.
Today I don't know if they can fill them (law?) as the NOS used in spray has something added that will make people that may use it for "fun" sick and not use it or they could die.

I have heard of some speed shops, are there any left?, had large tanks they could fill the small one from but again where is a speed shop?

So how is spray look now
Dave ----

Having the bottles filled is no problem, a friend of mine owns a dyno shop right in town and he can easily fill the bottles for me. There are also a few welding supply shops around here that will do it.

My latest project that I just finished was fixing my Maxim garden tiller that I purchased last year. I bought the frame for $25 and installed a Predator 212 cc 6.5 hp engine on it. I got my garden plot in but when I tried to make the garden larger, A chain in the drive case broke. I disassembled it last week and found that both chains were broken. I ordered two new chains and reassembled it today.

Stopped over at a friends house to diagnose an ABS and stabilitrak light on his daughter's Impala.

45 minutes later:




Shes gonna be a stump puller :D This M block is built pretty stout.

Frank Wyatt wrote

My latest project that I just finished was fixing my Maxim garden tiller that I purchased last year. I bought the frame for $25 and installed a Predator 212 cc 6.5 hp engine on it. I got my garden plot in but when I tried to make the garden larger, A chain in the drive case broke. I disassembled it last week and found that both chains were broken. I ordered two new chains and reassembled it today.

Too much torque with the newer/more powerful engine?

I think the chain case has been ran with out any oil in the chain case. I filled it up with gear oil before using it and tilled my garden but it was leaking out the seals pretty badly. When I took it apart, it was empty again. It has new seals now and I will be getting the gear oil today.

Try some '00' cotton/corn picker grease.
We use that in snowblower drives up here.

It doesn't leak out as much if at all, but still provides good lubrication.

I like the tray on that engine stand.

My favorite engine.  I really like under dogs.  Everyone thinks the 460 is the way to go, but the 400 has a slightly longer stroke and plenty of breathing capacity in the heads.

Hope you'll document it, Angelo.